Jackson Pro Series Alumiloid inlays.

[markusw]

Hi,

What do you guys think about the ugly Alumiloid inlays used in some of the Pro series made in Indonesia?
I think they are awful and make the guitars look cheap...
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Even the cheaper X series guitars look better:

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[Mudlark]

I don't dislike them, but I prefer regular white.

[markusw]

And another thing I've noticed is that the floyd rose locking nuts are very high and the action is very high in the first frets..
I had a soloist and still have a king V ... both had the same problem..
What can I do to fix this? shave some wood? change the locking nut?

[MileHighKingV]

Take off the locking nut and very gently sand the wood underneath (with a very fine grit), then put the nut back on and test the string height. Keep doing this until you find the string height you like. CAUTION - you do not need to sand very much wood off to change string height (less than 1/64").

[markusw]

Take off the locking nut and very gently sand the wood underneath (with a very fine grit), then put the nut back on and test the string height. Keep doing this until you find the string height you like. CAUTION - you do not need to sand very much wood off to change string height (less than 1/64").

Thank you.
I've never done these sort of things before so I hope I won´t spoil anything XD
I wished I didn't have to touch anything but the action is ridiculously high...

[Mudlark]

High action at the first fret is intolerable to me. I won't play it. Fortunately for me, I only play non-trem guitars with bone nuts which can be easily modified for a super low action.

I'm no expert on technical problems such as this, but I expect sanding down the nut shelf is your easiest route. Grinding the bottom o the metal nut down would be your other, harder, option.

You'll need to keep the shelf level and flat to allow the nut to seat properly, also. That may be tricky.

I'd suggest colouring the bare wood with black marker and then evenly sand off the marker. Then colour it again and repeat until you're low enough. This should help to keep things from getting uneven.

Low action at the first fret is essential in a low action on the board. My strings are almost touching the first fret.

[Vass]

The marker suggestion rules. Thanks.

[markusw]

High action at the first fret is intolerable to me. I won't play it. Fortunately for me, I only play non-trem guitars with bone nuts which can be easily modified for a super low action.

I'm no expert on technical problems such as this, but I expect sanding down the nut shelf is your easiest route. Grinding the bottom o the metal nut down would be your other, harder, option.

You'll need to keep the shelf level and flat to allow the nut to seat properly, also. That may be tricky.

I'd suggest colouring the bare wood with black marker and then evenly sand off the marker. Then colour it again and repeat until you're low enough. This should help to keep things from getting uneven.

Low action at the first fret is essential in a low action on the board. My strings are almost touching the first fret.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to try doing as you say. And yes, Low action at the first fret is the key to getting a low action all over the fretboard... that's why I don´t understand how a Pro series guitar come from the factory that way...

[Mudlark]

They use the marker while levelling frets to allow them to see which frets are being sanded (the higher frets) and which ones are being missed by the sander (the low frets). That's where I got the idea from. Take your time and I'll bet you'll be real glad you did it.

Sounds like it's gonna take a fair number of sanding/marking procedures.

[Sunbane]

I'll rather have the alumi-whatever inlays than those butt ugly faux-MOP ones.
Real MOP looks the best. But if I was to ever order a custom, it would get mirror inlays.

[markusw]

I'll rather have the alumi-whatever inlays than those butt ugly faux-MOP ones.
Real MOP looks the best. But if I was to ever order a custom, it would get mirror inlays.

Yes real MOP look awesome.
Mirror Inlays? I didn't even know they existed...

[markusw]

They use the marker while levelling frets to allow them to see which frets are being sanded (the higher frets) and which ones are being missed by the sander (the low frets). That's where I got the idea from. Take your time and I'll bet you'll be real glad you did it.

Sounds like it's gonna take a fair number of sanding/marking procedures.

Maybe I should take the guitar to a luthier XD

[wrldeatr7]

I like and prefer the alumiloid inlays, it gives the guitar a stealthy look. I never understood why whole fish theme with guitars: pearl, abalone, etc...weird and ugly.

I would also recommend grinding the nut instead of sanding the wood. If something goes wrong, you can always replace the nut. I have a white KVMG and but I wouldn't say that in mine the nut sits very high.

[Sunbane]

I never understood why whole fish theme with guitars: pearl, abalone, etc...weird and ugly.

It's the Innsmouth look!

I would also recommend grinding the nut instead of sanding the wood. If something goes wrong, you can always replace the nut.

I would agree with this. It will take longer if you don't have access to machinery, but it is easier to get right.

[Newc]

I've got one of the Indo KVs with alumiloid fins. While not my first choice, and definitely more challenging to see where you are, I like them. Plastic MOTO on ebony boards or black plastic on maple isn't an issue for me - the inlays have no tonal contribution.

As for action, you must have gotten a dog, because mine is every bit the shredder as my USA KV2T, and the USA KV-2 and Mustaine Pro that I had.