Belated NGD - Adrian Smith SDX

[Genebaby]

This guitar doesn't have a mod to do the truss rod wheel, though that is indeed possible.

What I have done with my guitars like this is to have a channel carved in the body, and sometimes partly in the neck, to allow access to the truss rod with a 5mm ball end hex wrench. Only one guitar already did have a 5mm hex for the nut, otherwise it was smaller than that, or in the case of the USA guitars, it was for a phillips screwdriver. In any case. I tried with a smaller size, but found I needed a 5mm hex nut to make it work with the neck on.

So, for this particular guitar I purchased another 5mm hex truss nut, and with the channel there, which you can just see in the first pic, I can adjust the truss rod after screwing down the neck pickup.

From memory, I was surprised to find that my CX291 had a factory 5mm hex nut. I was totally expecting to need a new one again.

This mod worked really good on the MIJ San Dimas I used to have. As it had the pickups screwed into the body, my tech made it so the neck pickup was on springs and could be pushed down, so it was super easy to get to the nut on that guitar. But I sold it. One of the few I moved on.

[Genebaby]

For the truss rod wheel, you can buy the wheel from Stew Mac I think, and you either have to notch the fretboard, or the body, so rather than work all that out, I did this other mod I thought of, cause I really want easy access to that nut.

[mpexus]

Thank you for replying.

I almost bought one yesterday... hovered the Buy Now button a couple of times but then... not yet lol

A thing that is confusing me is that the Pics showing on the Jackson Website shows the SDX Maple Fretboard WITH the Truss Rod Wheel since last year, just like any EVH or the 2016 Charvels:

http://www.jacksonguitars.com/guitars/san-dimas/models/x-series-signature-adrian-smith-sdx-maple-fingerboard-snow-white/

But all others show without it like they used to be.

I inquired this to Jackson and got a reply from someone at Fender saying they were investigating it, 1 week later they told me they had no reply from Jackson Marketing and he asked again... this was almost 15 days ago and I still have no answer.. so Im assuming that its either a Mistake (how can it be??) or they are ready but they want to sell all older models first. Although the Truss Rod Wheel pic is available since September last year on the site.

I wont mind buying the regular version now and then paying someone to do the proper Mod (if possible) but that Mod alone can cost 200+ euros... that I could save if I could buy it like in that Pic because 200+ and its getting into Charvel So Cal Territory prices.




Even weirder is the new Green model doesn't have that Truss Rod Wheel:

http://www.jacksonguitars.com/guitars/san-dimas/models/x-series-signature-adrian-smith-sdxq-maple-fingerboard-transparent-green/

About the Mod, my question is:

After altering the Neck and the Pickguard to allow the Wheel, does the Truss Rod allow the Wheel to simply insert there? Because if the Truss Rod adjustment is made with a regular Hex Key then the Wheel cant be used, would the thread of the truss rod match that of the spoke wheel is one thing?






Right now since I never saw the Truss Rod of a SDX I have no clue if its adjusted with a Key like this:





or like Keys this:



If its the First then the Wheel ill do (right)? but the second then I dont know.. this is the thing that bothers me and would really like to know it if possible.

[Genebaby]

The regular truss nut of the SDX is adjusted via an allen key, I think it was 4mm or so. I use a 5mm nut for my mod. I have never put a wheel on my guitars, but it can be done. From what I know about the wheel, it's adjusted simply by inserting a tool into the hole and moving the wheel left or right, it's not a hex hole or anything like that.

To mod it my way should not cost that much, and probably not the with the wheel either. For a good tech it's fairly simple work.

[mpexus]

Thank you for the info and sorry for replying only now, Im not getting notifications for this Post.

Im pretty sure ill get one even if I dont mod her hehehe.

[guirat]

...the low E on my Charvel keeps going out of tune, I'm wondering if there's a fault with the Floyd as the string isn't slipping at the lock nut.

I've just been noticing the same problem recently (Charvel ProMod).
I rest my palm on the bridge, but must have started placing it further back than usual. My palm was touching the fine-tuner and loosening it. I don't know if this may be a possibility in your case? I retuned the low E, this time setting the fine tuner further down (and tighter).

[Genebaby]

Thank you for the info and sorry for replying only now, Im not getting notifications for this Post.

Im pretty sure ill get one even if I dont mod her hehehe.

Well, the newest ones may very well be coming with the wheel adjustment, they are doing it all over the place now.

[mpexus]

Maye... but the Green one doesnt show to have it... and I find that weird. Im still wating for a proper Reply from Jackson/Fender etc... been 1 month and so far no one seems to know

[Genebaby]

So the pics are gone now, but I remember them. I did end up deciding to upgrade the Floyd posts, seeing as I still wasn't finished with this guitar.

I'm used to upgrading the Floyds on US Pro Mod guitars so I ordered Schaller posts, which as it turns out luckily came with the bushing I thought I didn't need.

As I discovered, the posts and bushings are completely different than an OFR setup. What did you use to upgrade yours?

My guitar is with a tech at the moment to have the new two hum pickguard and 3-way switch installed, along with a setup to suit. The tech is also going to put in the Schaller bushings so I can use the new posts.

I installed the 0.5 shim already and it is good.

I worked out the deal with the Floyd Posts on this guitar. I was looking somehow at Gotoh Floyds and noticed the posts looked familiar so I got in touch with the seller and yes, he installed the Gotoh bushings and posts to go with the Gotoh Floyd. I never suspected this, so I will leave it at that as they have already been upgraded.

[Genebaby]

So I picked the guitar back up today. The setup is not finished, but the other work is. He kept the old pickguard pretty much as is and installed a CTS pot, switchcraft input jack and braided cable, as he told me, along with the 3-way toggle I provided. I am liking it.

[Zedder]

I ordered one with rosewood fretboard few days ago, hasn´t arrived yet. I have couple of questions:

I´m going to replace FR Special trem with a chrome Schaller Lockmeister. Is R2 locking nut the right one or should I buy R3 instead? What is the right size of the trem block, is it 32 mm, 37 mm or 42 mm?

[Kisonen]

42mm sustain block is the right size. Locking nut is 43mm from the factory so R3 fits. You can try R2 nut on and see if it works. There is little bit of overhang with R3 nut on my AS SDX.

[Zedder]

42mm sustain block is the right size. Locking nut is 43mm from the factory so R3 fits. You can try R2 nut on and see if it works. There is little bit of overhang with R3 nut on my AS SDX.

Thanks. It seems that standard Schaller Lockmeister set has correct parts for this project.

I just wonder how it is possible that SDX has 42mm sustain block. I have Charvel So-Cal superstock with top mounted floyd and it has 32mm block. There should not be difference in body thickness I think. Routing for tremolo springs must be different then.

[Genebaby]

Mine has the Gotoh Floyd and came with a 40mm block. I also have a shim to angle the neck more. I would go with a 37mm block, not a 42mm.

[Kisonen]

I had 37mm block on mine too. I also have shim on there and with that tremolo springs were dragging on the trem cavity bottom. 42mm block fixed that. 42mm block doesn't stick out of the guitar and trem cavity cover fits without any problems.