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I just got a '96 Professional Stealth TH1 that I bought used. The trem has had one saddle replaced by a previous owner (it's black and the rest is chrome)--does anyone have any experience in replacing the JT 580 with an original Floyd or even a less expensive FR Special or is it better to scour the internet looking for parts or a complete used JT 580 trem? I am hoping it's a Takeuchi--I read in several places those are the best JT 580's. I know at the end of the day we all have to decide how much a guitar is worth to us as far as upgrades and mods but these seem rare-ish from the end of a great MIJ era. I am not assuming rare=fantastic but I got this one paired with a '16 JS32 Dinky for $375 as a pair so I figure there is some room before I am just throwing money away to fix up the TH1. Any input would be appreciated. I am glad I found this site.
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Swapping either a JT580 or JT580LP for an OFR (or another Floyd Rose variant with the same footprint) is a direct swap. See here: http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/Trem...ject.htm#jt580 -
If I were you, I'd look into the possibility of fitting a set of OFR saddles. Not sure about the exact dimensions, but it looks like a direct swap to me and you can solve the problem for under 100 USD.
Better yet, next time you change strings, inspect closely the INSIDE cavity of the saddle and the surface ot the string locking block. If you're lucky, the block has string imprints/grooves on it which should be the culprit of string slippage. A full set of blocks are around 5 USD... The saddles themselves might have those very same marks, but you might save the day with a new, intact block. Unfortunately many people (my pastself included) overtighten the string lock screw and it causes the problems I described above and cheaper/zinc alloy saddles are especially prone to it. WAY less force is enough to lock the strings than what most people think is needed.
As for the FR Special, well, the zinc alloy saddles will fail and you'll have the same problem as now and the pot metal sustain block is crap also. That being sad, putting a set of OFR saddles and a brass block on a Special's baseplate is still cheaper than a full OFR unit and once done, it's every bit as good the German units. So unless you're prepared for buying parts and going through the same ordeal again, fuggedaboutit.
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2nd this adviseOriginally posted by nexion218 View PostIf I were you, I'd look into the possibility of fitting a set of OFR saddles. Not sure about the exact dimensions, but it looks like a direct swap to me and you can solve the problem for under 100 USD.
Better yet, next time you change strings, inspect closely the INSIDE cavity of the saddle and the surface ot the string locking block. If you're lucky, the block has string imprints/grooves on it which should be the culprit of string slippage. A full set of blocks are around 5 USD... The saddles themselves might have those very same marks, but you might save the day with a new, intact block. Unfortunately many people (my pastself included) overtighten the string lock screw and it causes the problems I described above and cheaper/zinc alloy saddles are especially prone to it. WAY less force is enough to lock the strings than what most people think is needed.
As for the FR Special, well, the zinc alloy saddles will fail and you'll have the same problem as now and the pot metal sustain block is crap also. That being sad, putting a set of OFR saddles and a brass block on a Special's baseplate is still cheaper than a full OFR unit and once done, it's every bit as good the German units. So unless you're prepared for buying parts and going through the same ordeal again, fuggedaboutit.
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