New DX-10 (FS??)

[mrr3000gt]

I just picked up a nearly brand new Japan DX-10 that is in sunburst with the 0-25db switch. From reading the jackson website materials, I believe it is a DX-10DFS (Firestorm).

My question is that when I flip the switch UP, I get a killer overdrive, but when I flip it down (off?), the guitar goes to bearly audible (and not usefull). Is this normal?

Also, I have just ordered a set of real S.D. SH-6s to replace the Ducan Designed (am I doing a good thing?).

The guitar plays killer, but I can find no wiring guides for it, no manuals, no intrinsic information about the DX-10 at all (unlike my YJM strat).

Can anyone tell me what they know about the DX-10? Is this the 'Affinity Squier Strat' of the Jackson line?

How can I tell how old it is?

[ewright]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

If its FS with reverse headstock, 2 Humbuckers, and no binding, its a DX10DFS. DX10D is the same, but without the Duncan Firestorm boost switch or control knob. One of the experts here will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the X series was originally made somewhere other than Japan (India/Korea?), but is now made in Japan.

Assuming that's true, then the DX10DFS is about the same as the DK2FS, except:
-DK2FS has bound fingerboard and headstock, DX10DFS doesn't.
-DK2FS has DD 102 and 101s, H/S/S; DX10DFS has DD 103s, H/H.
-DK2FS has normal Jackson headstock, DX10DFS has reverse.
-DK2FS has normal Jackson Sharkfin inlays, DX10DFS has reverse Sharkfins.

So what you have is the H/H version of the DK2FS. Same body (alder w/flame maple veneer if transparent color), same neck (Bolt-On rock maple with rosewood fingerboard) but without the binding, and with reverse headstock and Sharkfins. Also, if I had to guess, your switch problem is due to the fact that the FS is driven by a 9v battery. On my DK2FS, the down position=FS, up=normal, which would mean your sound is cutting out because the battery is dead?

[mrr3000gt]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

Mine is a true Japan DX10DFS (it has a made in Japan sticker on the back at the base of the neck). It looks so new that it cant be more than a couple of years old (if I had a good way to interpret the SSN: 9695932) The 'Made in Japan' sticker is in good condition, as where it is located it would soon wear off if it had more than a couple of years on it.

As far as the switch, the first thing I did was replace the battery (during the strip down and examination to wee what I had just bought). When I switch it off the sound cuts down to bearly audible. I have to really crank the amp up to hear anything, and even then its a pathetic tiny sound: then flipping the switch is like an explosion.

A bound neck would be nice, but the neck and action on this rivals any good quality MIM Strat I have ever played (so low and flat with NO buzzes). My main guitar is a 2004 YJM USA Strat, so Im not used to bound necks. Even still, I could not have got a (beater) strat to play to save fretware on the main guitar that played better for under 500.00. I paid 250.00 for the guitar, and was amazed at what I got for the money.

[ewright]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

If its MIJ and you don't mind the unbound neck, then its basically the H/H version of a DK2FS (same quality, body, neck, hardware, etc.). For $250, I'd say you got a great deal, especially considering I just paid twice as much for a new DK2FS! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

I don't know what's causing your problem, but I can tell you it doesn't happen on mine. I don't know shit about electronics, but it seems the fact that the FS works fine should narrow it down a bit. I bet if you told your local tech what you just told me, it'd be a simple fix...and definitely worth the cost since you got such a good price on the guitar!

[RacerX]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

[ QUOTE ]
It looks so new that it cant be more than a couple of years old (if I had a good way to interpret the SSN: 9695932)

[/ QUOTE ]

My educated guess: mid 2003

[mrr3000gt]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

ewright:
I happen to build amps and pedal effects, so if its something electronic, I can fix or re-build it! I am going to give it a serious look when the two Duncan SH-6s I ordered to replace the D.D.s on it now come in. I just didnt know if it was like a standby on the guitar. I mean it drops it down to bearly audible. That did not make sence to me, as I have a Fender Marcus Miller signature series bass I also play, and the switch for the preamp makes the bass active, and flipping the switch off makes it passive and operate like a standard Jazz bass.

Racer: the 'made in Japan' sticker on the back tells me its probably less than 18 months old.

[paige]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

I have a dx f.s. also and mine does not do that either. As a matter of a fact when It's engaged sounds like crap to me.

[mrr3000gt]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

Mine sounded like it was mudded out, but if I backed off a little on the gain of the preamp, it sounded usable. Thats why Im dumping the D by D PUPs for the S.D. SH-6s (cant WAIT for them to get here!)

[ewright]

Re: New DX-10 (FS??)

[ QUOTE ]
I have a dx f.s. also and mine does not do that either. As a matter of a fact when It's engaged sounds like crap to me.

[/ QUOTE ]

I love it, but thats because I'm playing through a little 30w practice amp, and it makes a huge difference. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

[mrr3000gt]

Should I???

I have just made a schematic layout of my DX10DFS to use as a guide when the new PUPs come in (not much different from the Seymore Duncan website layout drawings). I hand drew it a few minutes ago.

My questions are:
1) Should I correct the cheap and crappy wiring?
2) Should I go a head and at least put a coil split on the bridge humbucker (this is stupidly easy to do)?
3) I have a American Standard Fender 5-way selector I can slap in: Yay or Nay?

Am I going to wreck its even minor collector value?

I was poking around inside and discovered that the rear humbucker green wire popped off the cheeeeap 3-way selector, and the solder peas they are calling connection points look equally reliable....not!

I ask these questions because I have the tech background to do this, but what results can I expect??

Also, any other DX10DFS owners can have the schematic layout I drew if they want (with ALL the normal disclaimers that go with free materials). If someone is interested, Ill draw it in MS paint and post it...

[Newc]

Re: Should I???

-Definitely upgrade the wiring.
-Coil split on the hum is useless IMO unless you want a single coil tone in the bridge (though I can't imagine why).
-Definitely go with the better 5-way.
-It has no collector value. You can cover it in 24K gold and have Elvis resurrected to sign it and you won't get a penny more than you paid for it.

The results you can expect are:
-More stable wiring connections
-Better wire=Better shielding
-A more enjoyable Jackson guitar

[mrr3000gt]

Re: Should I???

NewC:

Sold! I am going to do what the factory in Japan was afraid to do: upgrade wiring to the level of a real guitar. The insides of this guitar are in-par with Indonisian Squiers, and I suspect that the Designed by Duncan, built too cheap pickups are just as bad.

A coil splitter on the bridge is nice to get stratty sounds. I have an Aria Pro II Wildcat III I bought in Germany in 1985 that allows the bridge to be split, and thats nice (sometimes). Perhaps I should use the $1300.00 strat I have when I want to sound like a strat, and let the Jackson be the chainsaw it was ment to be...

The 5-position *might* work, as the 3-position slider in the DX10 looks like its just a three-way toggle that goes thru the trouble of looking like a strat slide pickup selector.
The output from the 3-position switch goes directly (from the pots) to the preamp on/bypass switch. The preamp mearly intercepts the signal just prior to going to the jack as would be the case if you had a little distortion pedal just before the output jack. The active preamp in this does NOT work directly on the PUPs, rather is just a last minute high gain stage the signal can pass thru just before the jack (meaning just about ANY pickups should work in this guitar - even single coils).
I have not messed with the guitar much, but the layout I made suggests there is just one volume knob and a tone control (I for some reason though there was two volume knobs, but looking at the layout, one of the two has a ground floated by a cap as you would with a passive tone control).

[RacerX]

Re: Should I???

Great detective work! I concur with Newc.

[Drake S.]

Re: Should I???

It's nice to see some JR members seeking knowledge & trouble shooting here. [img]/images/graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]

[Newc]

Re: Should I???

Actually the Japanese factory wasn't "afraid" to put better components on it - they have been ordered NOT to do it by Jackson USA waaaaaaay back in 1995. From 1990 to 1994, when the import Jacksons first hit, they were of such high quality that they were selling better than the USA models. I've had many USA and Japanese 1990-94 Jacksons, and so have several JCF members, and can attest to the fact that the 1990 USA Soloist, Warrior, Rhoads, and Phil Collen Archtop were identical to the 1990 Professional (Japan) models. Same woods, same inlay material, same attention to detail, same pickups, same hardware and wiring quality, at a lower price.

These days, Jackson has the best wood and construction quality for their imports than any other brand, but skimp on the hardware and electronics because those are easily changed out. You can rewire the whole thing with better components, but if the body or neck sucks, it's gonna keep sucking no matter what.