Professional Soloist or Charvel Model 6?

[usrname]

I've been trying to decide which Jackson to get. I know I want a Soloist or something close to it, but I can't quite afford the USA model - not even used. A few of the Professional models have caught my eye, but I haven't seen many with the "sharkies". I've also stumbled across the Charvel Model 6 recently, which is also close to what I'm looking for (neck-thru, shark fins, binding, etc.).

Could someone that has experience with either one or both of these models do a little comparison? I'm mainly interested in neck profile, (the fatter the better), and radius. I'm looking for something I can shred on, but not so thin that it makes my hand cramp. Also, the more it weighs, the better. Any other pros/cons or better bang for the buck would be greatly welcome. Thanks fellow soon-to-be J/Cers!

[Sanctuary]

The Pro Soloist has fins with Ebony. The Model 6 has fins on Rosewood. I haven't had a Pro Soloist, but I do have a couple of Model 6's. They've got a fatter neck profile (beefy) than my other Jacksons. I can highly recommend the Model Six. Fantastic guitar, if you don't mind the Kahler ('86) or JT-6 trem (other years), and Rosewood board. Easily up there with the US stuff.

[dg]

They're both great. I've got a Model 6, but I'd give the nod to the early Soloist Pro. You'll pay more, but they have the ebony board, MOP logo, and better trem (Schaller-made JT-590 with locknut vs. the JT-6 or Kahler w/ behind-the-nut lock). Also take a look at the Charvel 650XL. They have the better trem like the Soloist Pro, but are otherwise much like the Model 6. The neck profiles are pretty similar among these models, judging by ones I've played. Nice & comfortable. I have heard that some of the '86 Model 6s (with the Kahler) had thinner necks than the later ones, but I've never played one from that year.

Compare the features by checking the catalog scans here:

http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/CatalogScans.htm

Model 6 was from '86 - '88, 650XL from '89 - '91, and the Soloist Pro from '90 on.

[quiksilver]

Soloist Pro.

[Rich#6]

Same factory, same guitar with different features depending on the year. the Jackson Pro with ebony board being the best. I have 2 86 model 6's and love them.

[Sunbane]

The biggest drawback to a bone-stock M6, is probably the JT-6 trem and string lock. Some people like them, but I've also heard some rather unflattering opinions about them. On such an old guitar, it's possible that the trem is badly worn and would require attention or even replacement. My M6 had already had an OFR transplant done to it when I bought it, and was a very good deal for that reason.

The Soloist Pro came with the JT-590 trem (made by Schaller), which is virtually just as good as an OFR. Thus the soloist would probably require less upgrading if you find one in nice condition.

There is another important difference to consider: Recessed vs. non-recessed trems. The M6 has a non-recessed trem. This means that the bridge sits higher off the body, and the neck is at an angle (similarly to a Les Paul). It also lacks a pull-up route, which limits the amount you can pull up a little bit (unless you do like me and set the trem up with a bit of forward tilt). The Soloist Pro has its trem recessed, and the neck is parallell to the body.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to play the Soloist Pro myself. There is one for sale locally, but the seller wants almost double the price that I shelled out for my M6 with OFR, and I highly prefer the non-recessed bridge of the M6.

So, in conclusion:

M6: Rosewood board, non-recessed trem, thicker neck, poorer original trem.
Soloist Pro: Ebony board, recessed trem, thinner neck, great original trem.

[Sunbane]

See my reply in the import Jackson section.

[Sanctuary]

Don't forget the M6 could be had with a Kahler in '86. Some people actually prefer Kahlers...Also the '86 guitars seem to have a smaller neck than the other M6's.

[Sanctuary]

(Schaller-made JT-590 with locknut vs. the JT-6 or Kahler w/ behind-the-nut lock).

Just one point. Some (late) Model Sixes got the Floyd nut instead of the behind-the-nut one. I have two almost identical '88 Model Sixes and one has the normal lock while the other has the Floyd locknut.

[mantis]

Have you checked out a left over SL3??? THey are going for about a grand new at

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Jackson-SL3-Soloist-Electric-Guitar?sku=512237X

Dan

[usrname]

Have you checked out a left over SL3??? THey are going for about a grand new at

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Jackson-SL3-Soloist-Electric-Guitar?sku=512237X

Dan

Thanks, but I don't like the trans finish on that one. It is a good price, though.

[usrname]

Thanks for all the replies. I really appreciate your help. Looks like I can't go wrong with either in terms of quality. The thicker neck profile of the model 6 has me leaning toward that one, but the behind-the-nut lock has me worried. I will be on the lookout for soloist pro with the ebony fretboard, though, since I love the feel and look of it. I didn't know about that one! I just missed a soloist pro by a day on Gbase.

I've got roughly $800 to spend now, so I'm just waiting for the right deal to come along. Hell, I might get lucky and find a USA model!

[usrname]

Oh, one more question. Does the finish on the back of the neck add to the profile a bit? How noticeable is it?

[Sunbane]

I think in some cases the finish can make a difference to the percieved thickness of the neck. Sometimes there's a thin line between a chunky feel and a "perfect" feel. I have an old Vantage with a neck I really hate - yet it is surprisingly close to my beloved Charvels in terms of dimensions. It just feels chunky, stiff and non-happening.

[Sanctuary]

I personally wouldn't worry about the behind-the-nut lock. I actually prefer them to the Floyd nuts anyway.