Switch Tip Help for a Stealth.

[Stitch]

This is my stealth. She's my baby.



Unfortuntely, given that I bought her second hand she didn't come with the original switch tip, and the one that came with it just doesn't fit. I know on the S-Series Ibanez they had the same problem, so FujiGen created that little plastic spacer that elevates the switch up and away from the body, and also frees up space in the control cavity.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement one that fits and doesn't get pulled off in positions 1 and 5?
A quick search of the forum and google didn't reveal anything, so...*scratches head*

As an aside, does anyone know the production numbers for this guitar? I work in a guitar shop but haven't seen many at all, and I'd really love to add more to my collection (like an EX! :drool

Thanks for any help!

[Inazone]

I can't help you with the switch issue, but the Stealth EXs were very common. They can be found on eBay and other sites all the time for relatively cheap, although you would incur some additional shipping costs based on location. Personally, I'd like to find a first-run Stealth Pro with the ebony board, or an XL with matching headstock finish. Those models are harder to find than the EX. There was also the TH-1 (Floyd w\ regular "hockey stick" headstock) and TH-2 (fulcrum trem w\ 3+3 SLS headstock) before they discontinued the series. The Pro, XL and TH-2 were available with ash bodies, which I really like. Maybe the others were too, but I've not seen the other models with ash.

[missionguitars1]

Usually I see the opposite problem - trying to fit a smaller tip onto a larger blade...the problem is you have an import/Asian 3 or 5-way switch (which has a smaller blade), and you're trying to fit a U.S./CRL tip (made for a larger blade) on it...

Unless you want to look for a smaller tip, I recommend a couple wraps of plumbers teflon tape around the blade to snug it up, and you should be good to go...

[Stitch]

It isn't the fit that is the problem; rather, the base of the tip is too broad, or perhaps the slit for the point of the blade is too deep, meaning that at the far extremes of its travel the base of the switch tip gets in the way of the switch making the connection

[missionguitars1]

It isn't the fit that is the problem; rather, the base of the tip is too broad, or perhaps the slit for the point of the blade is too deep, meaning that at the far extremes of its travel the base of the switch tip gets in the way of the switch making the connection

Ahhhh, gotcha! You'd figure QC would catch that...possible that the teflon tape might be the solution, if only to make the tip sit higher than it does...another possibility is to steal an emory board from your g-friend and widen the slot, but you might run into a problem with the tip knocking into the 2 mounting screws...

The legit fix though, is to replace the switch... You could route a touch under the slot in the wood to make the current switch sit higher, but you might punch though the top if you aren't careful...plus the cost for a shop to replace the switch shouldn't run over an hour's labor plus the cost of the new switch itself (call it $75 total, or 35 pounds-ish)...

[Deadlock]

i had a similar problem. I just bought a new Fender switch for $10 at Sam Ash, it came with a white cap and a black cap. They aren't hard to install if you've installed pickups before.

[straycat]

Just use a little thin super glue to fill the slot some let it dry and reinstall.That should raise the tip just enough to clear the body.Or just buy an import switch tip.

[Stitch]

Ahhhh, gotcha! You'd figure QC would catch that...possible that the teflon tape might be the solution, if only to make the tip sit higher than it does...another possibility is to steal an emory board from your g-friend and widen the slot, but you might run into a problem with the tip knocking into the 2 mounting screws...

The legit fix though, is to replace the switch... You could route a touch under the slot in the wood to make the current switch sit higher, but you might punch though the top if you aren't careful...plus the cost for a shop to replace the switch shouldn't run over an hour's labor plus the cost of the new switch itself (call it $75 total, or 35 pounds-ish)...

I'm pretty sure its an aftermarket replacement, so QC doesn't really cme into it

Routing the thing isn't too much of a big deal but I wanted to avoid it as the cavity is pretty small and it could be challenging getting a decent sized jig that will get close enough to the edges of the cavity.

As for replacing the switch, I'm a tech at my shop, so that won't cost me any labour to do