About to make first tweek to DXMG

[RickBlacker]

The action on my DXMG is rather high. I've looked at the trem, no way to adjust it any further. It's as low as it goes.

So, here is my plan (based on a suggestion by a friend)

* Going to take the neck off
* Get 60 grit sandpaper and make a shim
* Put about a 1" shim of sandpaper all the way in the back of the nect saddle (pocket???) Not sure exactly what it's called.
* Put neck back on
* Restring


Thoughts?

[metalchurch79]

The neck shim will be good enough. Dont mess with the bridge.
If you need more adjustment add another piece of sandpaper.

[RickBlacker]

The neck shim will be good enough. Dont mess with the bridge.
If you need more adjustment add another piece of sandpaper.

Even if I wanted to, I can't. It's adjusted as low as possible already. Got it from the dealer this way.

I am going to start with 1 peice, if needed I'll add more. I just know that my action is really high and want to fix it.

[metalchurch79]

I meant dont shim the bridge.

If you add 2 pieces of sand paper or card stock under the neck @ the rear of the neck pocket, you should then be able to raise your bridge up higher, and then have it in the middle.

Then you'd be able to lower and raise the bridge in the future if needed.
Might have to use 3 pieces to get the bridge up some more.

*or ad 2 small pieces and one whole piece that fits the whole cavity, therefore raising the entire neck up, not just the rear.
That's probably what I would do.

edit: i would use 60 grit, because the sand grains are big and are liable to crush when you tighten the neck down and leave you almost beck where you were.
Use a lighter grit, or business cards, magazine subscription cards, etc...

[toejam]

The action on my DXMG is rather high. I've looked at the trem, no way to adjust it any further. It's as low as it goes.

So, here is my plan (based on a suggestion by a friend)

* Going to take the neck off
* Get 60 grit sandpaper and make a shim
* Put about a 1" shim of sandpaper all the way in the back of the bridge saddle
* Put neck back on
* Restring


Thoughts?

:think: What good would it do to take the neck off if you're going to shim the bridge saddles? Shimming the saddles is just going to bring your action up even higher.

[metalchurch79]

I'm confused as to what he meant. Maybe he knew, but didnt type it out like he wanted??
Anyway RickBlacker, if you follow what I wrote, you should be fine.

Any more questions, then ask away, cause there's alot of knowledgeable guys on this site, and you will no doubt learn alot here.

The only stupid question is the one that was never asked...
Best of luck, hoipefully you get it playable again.

And word of advice, dont listen to your friend anymore....He must be from the Dean or ESP forum, huh?:ROTF:

[RickBlacker]

Crap... Sorry guys...

I didn't mean "bridge". I meant neck cavity. Yeah that would have been very confusing.

[RickBlacker]

Ok, done.


What did I learn?

1. Watch out for snapping strings. They could poke an eye out.
2. It's VERY easy to take the neck off. A monkey can do it.
3. There are small little blocks that will fall out of the floyd rose trem. Be carefull. Especially if you have shag carpet.
4. If your low E string is 3/32" away, 1 strip of 60 will get you down to about 3/64"
5. Don't be worried if your bridge is not level at first. As you tune your guitar, the bridge will level itself back out.
6. It takes a while to get it back in tune.
7. DON'T FORGET TO LEVEL OUT YOUR FINE TUNERS BEFORE you tune up. I didn't do this and wanted my fine tuners leveled out, so I got to tune my guitar a second time. Good practice I suppose.

Ok so now that it's done. Here are some things of concern.

When I started this, my bridge was lowered all the way down. Fine, no problems. There was no buz at all. But the strings were still sitting high. Higher than I wanted anyway.

After I got the strings on and started tuning, I noticed a lot of buzz, thus, I've ended up having to raise my bridge 1 and a half turns on both sides. Rising the bridge after trying to adjust the neck seems to counteract what I just did.

Also, there is about 1/64" difference in the middle of the fretboard from the ends. So, I'm assuming there is a slight bow.

[Ben...]

Jeez, you know more about tech than me and you've been playing how long? Luckily, my DK2 came set up perfectly when I got it.

[MartinBarre]

[/LIST]

After I got the strings on and started tuning, I noticed a lot of buzz, thus, I've ended up having to raise my bridge 1 and a half turns on both sides. Rising the bridge after trying to adjust the neck seems to counteract what I just did.

Also, there is about 1/64" difference in the middle of the fretboard from the ends. So, I'm assuming there is a slight bow.

Are you getting fret buzz all the way up the neck, or is it just one fret causing it? Did you tune it all up and play it on your knee before adjusting the bridge? Did you play it amplified to see how noticeable the buzz is under a bit of gain (it's possible you won't notice it once amplified).
If there's a slight bow, adjust the truss rod. I've never had to do this yet so I won't offer any advice - but I believe it's a simple operation.

[RickBlacker]

Jeez, you know more about tech than me and you've been playing how long? Luckily, my DK2 came set up perfectly when I got it.

About a month and a half. Not sure I know more, I just read up on the internet. Plus, I just did it. Like the old Nike commercials... Just do it.

I figured what could I actually hurt if I took my time. Not much really. If I screwed it up, I'm sure there is someone in Portland who is qualified to fix it.

I doubt that they put to much pre tweeking on the DXMGs, they are not an expensive guitar (well considering others out there). So I would assume they help keep costs down by not putting much effort into setup. My guess is that they slap them together in the factory and ship them out the door. Just a guess though.

[RickBlacker]

Are you getting fret buzz all the way up the neck, or is it just one fret causing it? Did you tune it all up and play it on your knee before adjusting the bridge? Did you play it amplified to see how noticeable the buzz is under a bit of gain (it's possible you won't notice it once amplified).
If there's a slight bow, adjust the truss rod. I've never had to do this yet so I won't offer any advice - but I believe it's a simple operation.

With my bridge all the way down as it was prior to this who procedure
There is fret buzz all the way up the neck, but it gets worse after about the 3rd fret. I can hear it a LITTLE in the amp when I play it clean.

With my bridge raised 1.5 turns
There is still a bit of buzz up the entire nect, not as bad. I can very bairly hear anything through the amp

With my bridge raised .5 turns
There is buzz up the neck, not as bad as all teh way down but not as good as with it raised 1.5 turns, can hear a little buzz. It actually sounds more like slap bass actually.

Also, I've noticed that these strings are a lot brighter than my old strings. The old strings are what ever the factory put on it. I have no idea what they were. My new strings are Earnie Ball Super Slinkies.

[RickBlacker]

You know.. I'm actually playing with my headphones on, playing through my pod x3, i'm actually quit happy. This plays a little nicer now. Also, the strings feel so much better. I was skeptic when people said that you should change your strings often... Well, I have to admit, they DO need to be replaced. I have NO idea how old those other strings were, or how many people had their grubbies on them. Or what crap they had on their hands... All I know is that new strings feel NICE!!!!

[MartinBarre]

The strings you've put on are 9's. Next time you change them try 10's (Regular Slinkies). It should stop the slap bass type sound and you can sort the action from there.
Wait - when you shimmed the neck, did you only put a piece of cardboard in the back of the neck pocket? If so, add another piece of the same cardboard at the headstock end of the neck pocket, so the neck is level.

[RickBlacker]

I only put one small strip of 60 grit sand paper at the back of the neck pocket.

10's huh? How does that affect the sound and playablilty?