R2,R3,R5 or R7 locking nut?

[dave4378]

Ok got a Jackson KVX10, pretty dismal guitar, but i guess it's just a template for an upgrade. Pitty i didn't wait a bit longer, could have got a KV5FR... no upgrades required & neckthrough construction, not bolt on.
Aaaaanyway i've changed the pickups & looking to put an Original Floyd Rose on it. Now i hear the locking nut is quite high on the KVX10. Seeing as i'm gonna have to choose the locking nut when i buy the bridge, i should go with the correct one rather than encouter problems later. Just keep the stock locking nut you say?...Well i'd like to change it fom chrome to black to match all the hardware that's giong on there, otherwise i probably would. So my question to all the Jackson gurus is which one is the stock locking nut on the KVX10, R2,R3,R5 or R7?

[VitaminG]

if the guitar is so dismal, why are you wasting time & effort upgrading it? Sell it and buy something that you like better

btw, I believe the R3 and R4 are the same width, but with different string spacing. One of those two would be right for your guitar

[Advv]

The R3 locking nut may require some sanding. It was too tall for my DK2M.

[dave4378]

if the guitar is so dismal, why are you wasting time & effort upgrading it? Sell it and buy something that you like better

btw, I believe the R3 and R4 are the same width, but with different string spacing. One of those two would be right for your guitar

Well it's not so much the guitar that's dismal, but rather the stuff that was on it originally. Probably wouldn't get much for it so i'd loose money & it'd probably end up costing me more to sell it & get a new one than upgrading...
The guitar is fine as a template. Untill just recently there hasn't been a more affordable King V that wasn't string through, so that's why i bought this one with the intention of upgrading it.
It'll still end up costing me much less than a KV2 (aproximately one third of the price), but it'll have all the same stuff on it with the same iconic shape & look i wanted. How it'll sound is yet to be determined... can't be too bad though since my friend has three of these that he upgraded & they all sound pretty darn good.
My logic is for the price of one U.S. Select Series i could buy 3 mid range guitars that i could gradually upgrade. I'm not a professional musician so i can't justify spending $4000 AUD on one guitar as much as i'd love to own one.

[dave4378]

The R3 locking nut may require some sanding. It was too tall for my DK2M.

Yeah yours comes with the same bridge as mine, the JT580 Lo Pro. I think it's cause that locking nut is designed for a low profile bridge. That bridge is one big pain, not only is the locking nut for it problematic when upgrading to an OFR, but the baseplate on the bridge is wider so it leaves a bit of a gap on each side. That's not a big deal, but it's just not very neat.

[dave4378]

Ok well the stock locking nut on my Jackson is 1.6875/43. I don't know about the height issue though, but like Advv was saying the R3 would be too tall, so if the R3 & R4 are the same width as my stock locking nut that leaves the R4. Now if the R4 is less tall than the R3, it's gotta be that one. So is there a height difference between the R3 & R4?

[rjohnstone]

So is there a height difference between the R3 & R4?

Nope... an R3 and R4 are identical in every way except for the string spacing.
Just sand the nut shelf down to accommodate the taller Floyd nut.
It's a lot faster and cleaner than trying to sand down a chunk of metal.

[dave4378]

Nope... an R3 and R4 are identical in every way except for the string spacing.
Just sand the nut shelf down to accommodate the taller Floyd nut.
It's a lot faster and cleaner than trying to sand down a chunk of metal.

OK so which would be the more suitable string spacing for my guitar, R3 or R4? Please excuse my ignorance, but i find this a bit daunting. I assume R3 like Advv?

[dave4378]

Let me rephrase that, which one has the same string spacing as the current stock locking nut on my guitar, R3 or R4? Not 100% sure but i think mine has the same string spacing as the DK2M, don't quote me on that though.

[wilkinsi]

I ordered an OFR with R4 Nut. I was only given the choice of R2 or R4. If only I knew which will fit my WR1 properly..

[rjohnstone]

The R4 will fit your fiddle Wilks.
An R2 is for 1 5/8 wide nuts.

Dave... get the R3 (narrow spacing). It's the same spacing as what's on a DK2.
The R4 is spaced wider... great for necks with binding.

[dave4378]

The R4 will fit your fiddle Wilks.
An R2 is for 1 5/8 wide nuts.

Dave... get the R3 (narrow spacing). It's the same spacing as what's on a DK2.
The R4 is spaced wider... great for necks with binding.

Thanks heaps. Do you mean same as the DK2M? Because the DK2 has binding & if i'm not mistaken it may have different string spacing. The DK2M on the other hand has the same JT580 Lo Pro bridge & the same locking nut as mine.

[dave4378]

Actually while i'm on the topic, which spacing does the KV2 have...R4? Since i'm trying to copy the KV2s specs on a cheaper template, it might be a logical step to go with the same nut. Hmmm dunno if the KV2 string spacing would be suitable on my guitar & neck though since mine has no binding & technically different guitar. Confusion...what to do.

[rjohnstone]

Thanks heaps. Do you mean same as the DK2M? Because the DK2 has binding & if i'm not mistaken it may have different string spacing. The DK2M on the other hand has the same JT580 Lo Pro bridge & the same locking nut as mine.

They both have binding.
But they both have standard string spacing at the nut. An R3 is considered "standard".
Some people will put an R4 on there to give better string separation, but you could run into the issue of having your high and low E strings roll off the fingerboard.
Something to consider.

I have no clue what shipped on the KV2.

[wilkinsi]

The R4 will fit your fiddle Wilks.

Thanks, put my mind at rest.