NGD, and my first Jackson! 1987 Soloist red metal flake exc cond.

[Hellbat]

WD is the way to go because it has solvents to break down the corrosion as well as silicone to protect the metal afterwards. The easiest technique is to soak the parts in it and then afterwards use a stiff bristle toothbrush to scrub off the remnants. I would avoid using a wire brush over a toothbrush because the wire one would be a lot harder on the finish that is remaining.

As far as the JT6 goes, they are a decent trem unit, but as has been said the metal that they are made of is buttery soft so you want to be real careful when you snug up the locking bolts at the bridge. I'm lazy and cheap so I would probably keep the JT6 on there until It had functional problems such as worn out knife edges or string lock problems.

[DonP]

What do you guys use to help clean corrosion on hardware? I keep on reading WD40, but not convinced.

What is the corrosion? WD40 is great for rust, but looking at your pictures, it doesn't look like rust. I don't know what it is.

To make the parts look black again, Sully had this great tip: a Sharpie marker.

[Hellbat]

The powdery looking stuff on the exposed metal is the corrosion. I don't know what kind of metal it is really, but it seems to be some kind of copper/zinc alloy or some soft brass alloy. Sharpie is a good idea for refinishing it after a good cleaning though.

[salmonella]

After reading this I thought "I wonder" - just pulled my tone knob (uh huh huh huh ) and discovered its also a push pull - for bridge PU split (not that id ever need that ) cool . So it seems to be fitted / wired the same as yours. I have black mini-bat switches too.
I like the stock pickups on these guitars. The range of sounds / tone is brilliant unless your specifically lookign for that modern metal sound.

[Grim]

The Super D, Super 2 and Super 3 all have two rows of allenhead screws.

But not black allen screws.

[toejam]

True, but I believe you can custom order them from DiMarzio with gold or black ones. Hell, people on the Duncan forum change out pole piece screws all the time.

[gnolivos]

OK, for those that were wondering, the bridge pickup (not stock) has a sticker on the back that reads: FS1BJ. It is engraved with Seymour Duncan logo.

From quick research: FS means fullshred, B means bridge, and the J means it was wound by MJ

[warlok]

Full Shred... What do I win?? lol

Are you looking for the bridge to be clean or looking good? Anything you use to get the corrosion off isn't going to make it look good. The finish on those spots is gone. You could sharpie it but best bet is to replace it. OFR, Gotoh, even a JT580LP is basically a direct replacement.

[DonP]

OK, for those that were wondering, the bridge pickup (not stock) has a sticker on the back that reads: FS1BJ. It is engraved with Seymour Duncan logo.

From quick research: FS means fullshred, B means bridge, and the J means it was wound by MJ

What does the '1' mean?

How do you like the full shred? I find it to be tight and precise, but I prefer loose pickups.

Have you looked to see what the original pickup was that was included with the guitar?

[gnolivos]

Haven't decided whether I like the FS yet . I am amazed by the tonal variations of this guitar though... with the 3 toggle switches and the coil tap, it gives you a lot to play with. Very nice.
It's not as 'hot' or 'shreddy' as I thought it would be, but this may be due to my amp (custom built AX84 P1) not having a lot of gain. Even with pedals I don't see a big difference compared to my Gibson SG, Explorer Pro, or Les Paul Classic.

The orignal bridge Humbucker was included, and that makes it a Jackson J-50B. It says so on the hang tag, and on a blue round sticker (handwritten) on the rear of the pickup itself.

I plan to solder this one back on and see if I like it.

What does the '1' mean?

How do you like the full shred? I find it to be tight and precise, but I prefer loose pickups.

Have you looked to see what the original pickup was that was included with the guitar?

[Axewielder]

Kickass! My guess on that truss rod cover is that the original was lost, and a standard sized one was cut to size and put on. A correct shaped one for that stringlock can be bought at fretsonthenet.

[gnolivos]

Yeah I took the locknut out for a looksie, and found that in fact there are 2 independent plastic pieces tkat make up the entire cover... looks like a chop job, I will get a replacement. No luck finding an original arrowhead truss cover from my quick research.

Kickass! My guess on that truss rod cover is that the original was lost, and a standard sized one was cut to size and put on. A correct shaped one for that stringlock can be bought at fretsonthenet.

[gnolivos]

Here is a closeup of the truss rod cover... looks like a custom job LOL. I'm confused though...

Looking at fretsonthenet, I can't seem to find one that will have that 4 hole arrangement, so that the locking nut mechanism sits over it and aligns...

Originally, does the locking nut assembly sit on TOP of the cover at any point, or does it sit on the headstock entirely? I don't think that bottom rectangular piece of cover/plastic was originally there... anyone have a similar one to compare?

This is the one on fretsonthenet that says JT6:


Here is what I currently have to work with:

[Axewielder]

Yeah the rectangular piece with the notch is a shim for the stringlock, and looks to be original. The truss cover is held in place by a single screw, with that tab interlocking with that notch in the shim.

[Grim]

people on the Duncan forum

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