Calling all PC1 experts ! Basically that means I need the wisdom of rjohnstone!

[vklobucar]

First of all forgive the long winded thread but here goes.

Picked up a 1997 Chlorine PC1 on eBay a few years ago. Got it for just over a grand because the sustainer was not working according to the seller. Took a chance and hit Buy It Now.

Not exactly true as the sustainer does work but only as long as the batteries last. Let me explain. Normally with my other PC1’s as soon as you plug in a cable the LED blinks to let you know that all is functional no? With this one the second the batteries make contact with the boxes, the LED blinks.

Leave the batteries in (with no cable plugged in BTW) and they are dead by the next day.

I recently changed the stereo plug but to no avail. Then it hits me tonight. The 2nd lug on the stereo jack is simply to "complete" the ground circuit to the batteries right?

I test my theory by carefully unplugging the mini connector from the PC board that holds the battery leads. I then delicately remove the white wire (which normally leads to my 2nd lug on the stereo jack) and then the black wire. I touch the two wire and then plug in a guitar cable Voila! Now it blinks like a normal PC1!

Question is this? Does that mean that those two lugs should have been soldered together in the PC board?

Are we talking about a cold solder joint within the trace?

Should I undo the board and check with the Fluke meter and touch up the solder if it shows no contact or just twist the wire permanently like my little test tonight.

[RobRR]

Im not fromiliar with the PC1 electronics, but you are correct in that the 2nd lug on the jack is simply there to complete the circuit. When the cable is unplugged, the circuit is broken thus disengaging the battery.

BTW, can you post pics? I remember that exact guitar, I wanted it soooo bad because it had a phenomnial top on it but just couldnt afford it at the time. Always wanted a PC1 and now that I have money cant find a decent deal on one.

[vklobucar]

I will dig up some pics. Actually I score it and another PC1 Euphoria for about a grand each! I just love the old Sears PC1's

You'all can keep your new Strat headstock versions. Those tops are nuthin' like the old ones!

[vklobucar]

The Solar PC1 on the left was a koa version and was sold. A fellow JCF member has it now. The Eau Natural was sold as well.

My Chlorine is really more dark green that say blue.

[vklobucar]

[AlexL]

I own one now with a strathead, and used to own a Sears headstock version.

Neither had the LED flash in normal use. The LED remains unlit until the batteries are running down. Then the LED glows dim. When the batteries are nearly dead, the LED glows bright. When the batteries are completely dead... well, no LED at all.

The flashing could be indicating a problem?

I see you own several... do your LEDs really flash all the time?


- E.

[vklobucar]

Actually all of my leds flash only when I plug in for a second and then stops. Hmmm...

[rjohnstone]

The LED only lights for a moment when the cable is plugged in and the battery voltage is sufficient to run the sustainer.
If the battery voltage drops below 14 volts, the LED will remain lit.

Sounds like you have a bad trace or solder bleed on the back side of the board.
Why they did it through the board vs. a traditional circuit break is beyond me.

[vklobucar]

Would the pin where the black wire connects to and the pin where the white wire connects to, not normally have contact through the board or traces?

My sustainer works regardless of me plugging in a cable so that means what exactly? My black pin is grounding out to something else and completing the circuit?

Any harm in just a traditional circuit break aka solder the B&W wires together and let the stereo jack activate the batteries?

BTW The soldering on this 2K guitar is sheer garbage! My toddler could have done a better job with a MIG welder then those clowns. No wonder I spen more time troubleshooting my PC1's than I do playing them!

[vklobucar]

So if I bypass the two connections on the PC board and just wire it in a traditional design will I damage the board? Is there not a need for an on board ground to protect the board?

Suggestions?

[rjohnstone]

I agree... the soldering and overall wiring job inside every PC1 I have ever seen is amateur grade at best. Don't get me started on the routing clearances.

You can bypass the connection just fine. the board is grounded in more than one place, so there is no harm in doing so.

[vklobucar]

Mega thanks Rick!

[rjohnstone]

No problem.
I'm still curious where the short is on that board.
The lead coming off the lug does not actually complete a circuit, it simply detects the presence of a ground and the IC on the board enables full power to the unit.
The board has power at all times, just not full power until the ground is detected.

[vklobucar]

I am going to remove the board this weekend and see the underside. Will post pics as well.....