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Both mine took 18 months from submitting the final work order to delivery to my house.
One had a custom body shape (Warrior with Death Angel tips, both things they had done previously on the respective models, so it wasn't like a new thing they had to learn how to cut), bolt-on maple/ebony SLS-headed neck with no inlays and a slanted fretboard like on the old 1990 Warrior (again, something they'd done before), one pickup, no controls, OFR.
The other was a 7-string Warrior, which they had done quite a few of, but mine was the first bolt-on 7-string Warrior. Maple/ebony neck with SLS headstock, 2-hum, OFR7, standard sharkfin inlays (i.e. not reversed or ziggies) - all stuff they had done before.
So even with something that on the surface seems "simple", there does exist the possibility of a long wait.
However, at that time there was also a huge backlog of CS orders. They had to suspend incoming CS orders for a few months to get them cleared away, and last I heard their turnaround time had improved, but I haven't tested it myself.
But it cannot be stressed enough to be as specific as possible. Do not make any assumptions. If you want a Kahler bridge with an OFR nut, make sure you clearly state that (highlighted, bold, italicised, flashing lights around it, etc).
And make sure it's exactly what you want before sending in the work order to the dealer. Do not make any changes after you send it in unless they call and ask you about changing something. When you change a submitted order, your order moves from the "do next" pile into the "maybe when this guy makes up his damn mind" pile.
If you want some specific inlay design, make sure it's drawn/painted/photoshopped very clearly, but don't go Alex Ross on it with the detail. Consider the material with which they have to work - you're not going to get it anytime soon if you want the inlays to have all sorts of shading and intricate detail like your favorite movie scene. Sketch it out as basic outlines only, in a "paint-by-numbers" layout - mother of pearl goes here, abalone goes here, sterling silver goes there, etc.
Do not piece it together using photos of the material. Keep it simple.
Lastly, pay it off all at once if you can, or at least well before delivery. A lot can change in the time you're waiting, so it's better to have it paid off than wishing you had paid it off.
One had a custom body shape (Warrior with Death Angel tips, both things they had done previously on the respective models, so it wasn't like a new thing they had to learn how to cut), bolt-on maple/ebony SLS-headed neck with no inlays and a slanted fretboard like on the old 1990 Warrior (again, something they'd done before), one pickup, no controls, OFR.
The other was a 7-string Warrior, which they had done quite a few of, but mine was the first bolt-on 7-string Warrior. Maple/ebony neck with SLS headstock, 2-hum, OFR7, standard sharkfin inlays (i.e. not reversed or ziggies) - all stuff they had done before.
So even with something that on the surface seems "simple", there does exist the possibility of a long wait.
However, at that time there was also a huge backlog of CS orders. They had to suspend incoming CS orders for a few months to get them cleared away, and last I heard their turnaround time had improved, but I haven't tested it myself.
But it cannot be stressed enough to be as specific as possible. Do not make any assumptions. If you want a Kahler bridge with an OFR nut, make sure you clearly state that (highlighted, bold, italicised, flashing lights around it, etc).
And make sure it's exactly what you want before sending in the work order to the dealer. Do not make any changes after you send it in unless they call and ask you about changing something. When you change a submitted order, your order moves from the "do next" pile into the "maybe when this guy makes up his damn mind" pile.
If you want some specific inlay design, make sure it's drawn/painted/photoshopped very clearly, but don't go Alex Ross on it with the detail. Consider the material with which they have to work - you're not going to get it anytime soon if you want the inlays to have all sorts of shading and intricate detail like your favorite movie scene. Sketch it out as basic outlines only, in a "paint-by-numbers" layout - mother of pearl goes here, abalone goes here, sterling silver goes there, etc.
Do not piece it together using photos of the material. Keep it simple.
Lastly, pay it off all at once if you can, or at least well before delivery. A lot can change in the time you're waiting, so it's better to have it paid off than wishing you had paid it off.
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