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My candidate for the next GOTM

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  • #61
    Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

    I would question the body and the paintjob. My guess is that it is a parts guitar. All those shims? Painted over v-trem screwholes? Poorly fitting (and routed) control cavity? Square four screw output jack plate on that era Jackson? Also appears the Floyd anchors were installed with the paintjob. This is probably a Neal Moser, since there is a shim made out of his business card...pure speculation, granted. That is not a factory graphic and does not appear to be a factory made body though it may be a dumpster special or something wacky. Great parts guitar...does not appear to be an authentic factory Jackson.

    Can someone tell me the guitar series with that digit scheme in the serial number? I am not familiar with that line.
    www.sandimascharvel.com

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    • #62
      Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

      Bret - That serialization is 1990s USA Dinkys and Fusions (since those were the only USA production bolt-ons).

      This neck plate in particular came off of a 1990 Fusion according to the Chart, and the fact that Fusions and Dinkys were not in USA production at the same time - they dropped the Fusion USA and started the Dinky USA line.

      Newc
      I want to depart this world the same way I arrived; screaming and covered in someone else's blood

      The most human thing we can do is comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable.

      My Blog: http://newcenstein.com

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      • #63
        Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

        It also lacks the recessed trem spring cavity cover plate. Or do you think this is a much older body?

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        • #64
          Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

          newc, get some glue in that trem post crack asap.

          sully
          Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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          • #65
            Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

            Thanks Newc! I don't know much more than four digit serial numbers!

            I had a Charvel Explorer with an added Floyd that had the same crack and glue never fixed it. There is a lot of stress on those posts that will break through the glue. Hopefully it is somewhat stable as it is. You could help by keeping it detuned with light strings. Unfortunately the best fix for this is actually cutting a chuck of the body out, grafting in a new solid piece of wood, and drilling post holes in the fresh wood. That is major surgery and requires all sorts of other work like refinishing, etc.

            It is a cool guitar and I hope you can get it running so you can use and enjoy it long term!
            www.sandimascharvel.com

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            • #66
              Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

              i've had some decent luck with epoxy, but in those cases, i've also blocked the trem as well.

              sully
              Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
              Sully Guitars on Facebook
              Sully Guitars on Google+
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              • #67
                Re: My candidate for the next GOTM

                Fusion and DInky serial numbers are difficult to nail down to exacts, but Charvel750 noted in another thread a while back that Fusions and Dinkys were not made at the same time, and the serial numbers of the Fusions I've had were all under 500 IIRC - at least under 1000 - and all the Dinkys I've had were over 1000. Given that this is in the 300 range, it had to have come from a Fusion [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

                The body is a mystery indeed - no bevels anywhere (especially a belly cut), San Dimas control route, Moser logoed neck shim, no markings in the body other than "STL" in the neck pocket, etc etc.
                I'm evenly divided between it being a total Jackson Custom Shop piece (i.e. ordered without bevels/belly cut, original neck is on it now but was swapped around once or twice, v-trem replaced with OFR either during production or at the factory, etc) or a Moser body with a Jackson neck - maybe it was a Strathead Moser and the other neck's now on the Jackson body?
                I'd really like to know how many 22 fret guitars were made with MOP Triangle inlays, unbound rosewood boards, and reverse heads - that'd narrow it down a bit for sure [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

                The crack doesn't really concern me, but if there's the potential for it to rip out, I'll definitely do something to prevent it, or at least delay it.
                The trem actually sits on top of the body - no pulling up allowed at all - so I'm guessing the only time the crack would flex is if I used the trem. Since I don't have a bar that will fit (hole seems kinda tight even with an OFR bar), I don't use the trem much.

                How about closing the gap with say pickup bezel screws, then glue, then remove the screws when the glue is dry?

                Newc
                I want to depart this world the same way I arrived; screaming and covered in someone else's blood

                The most human thing we can do is comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable.

                My Blog: http://newcenstein.com

                Comment

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