Anyone using a PC1 with a Helix?

[Paulzx]

Have a guitar tech take a look, there could be an issue. Not always though are good guitars the loudest, highest gain. Many very expensive guitars have low output. not always is the expensive guitar the best for you either. I have close to 100 Charvel guitars, from U.S.A, custom shop, limited run, model series, Promods, and my favorite is an 88' model 2 that is all beat up, and been repaired many times.

Yeah I think I might have to do that

[wilkinsi]

I sayfind out which pickups are in your JS32, install them in you PC1 (just swap the bridge pickup), and see if that improves the situation. I find unless I've got an Invader installed, I don't get enough gain. Its almost as if I rolled back the volume on the frikkin guitar. I also found putting Dimarzio's in a Warrior was a bad mistake. I lost a lot of low end.

[rjohnstone]

I sayfind out which pickups are in your JS32, install them in you PC1 (just swap the bridge pickup), and see if that improves the situation. I find unless I've got an Invader installed, I don't get enough gain. Its almost as if I rolled back the volume on the frikkin guitar. I also found putting Dimarzio's in a Warrior was a bad mistake. I lost a lot of low end.

I would not recommend that unless you know how to setup the sustainer. They are dialed in for the Super 3.
A pickup swap always requires retuning the sustainer to match the gain with the driver.

[Paulzx]

Unlikely I'll be looking at taking out any pick ups and swapping them around, I don't want to make it any worse lol

[Paulzx]

Have a guitar tech take a look, there could be an issue. Not always though are good guitars the loudest, highest gain. Many very expensive guitars have low output. not always is the expensive guitar the best for you either. I have close to 100 Charvel guitars, from U.S.A, custom shop, limited run, model series, Promods, and my favorite is an 88' model 2 that is all beat up, and been repaired many times.

I've actually changed my speakers over and now getting completely different guitar tones and everything is sounding better so I think this problem might be more down to the Alto speakers than the PC1

[wilkinsi]

I would not recommend that unless you know how to setup the sustainer. They are dialed in for the Super 3.
A pickup swap always requires retuning the sustainer to match the gain with the driver.

Yikes!

So, the Sustainer is nothing like the Sustainiac (in a DK2S I used to own then)?

[rjohnstone]

Yikes!

So, the Sustainer is nothing like the Sustainiac (in a DK2S I used to own then)?

They are similar, but the PC1 unit is way more powerful.
I have a Sustainiac Stealth Pro system in one of my guitars and it is a royal pain in the rear. Depending on what board combo you get, there is some tuning capabilities.
The unit in the DK2S has trim pots for gain and feedback, while the slim Stealth Pro slim board for a Strat does not.

The PC1 sustainer has onboard trim pots for gain and feedback that can be used to tune for different pickups.
Swapping out the Super 3 for something hotter, like an Evo, will result in a noisy sustainer that likes to squeal.
So you have to dial back the gain and readjust the feedback to keep it quiet.
A properly setup sustainer in a PC1 with fresh batteries at full intensity should make the whole guitar vibrate. A sustainiac lacks that kind of power.

[Paulzx]

They are similar, but the PC1 unit is way more powerful.
I have a Sustainiac Stealth Pro system in one of my guitars and it is a royal pain in the rear. Depending on what board combo you get, there is some tuning capabilities.
The unit in the DK2S has trim pots for gain and feedback, while the slim Stealth Pro slim board for a Strat does not.

The PC1 sustainer has onboard trim pots for gain and feedback that can be used to tune for different pickups.
Swapping out the Super 3 for something hotter, like an Evo, will result in a noisy sustainer that likes to squeal.
So you have to dial back the gain and readjust the feedback to keep it quiet.
A properly setup sustainer in a PC1 with fresh batteries at full intensity should make the whole guitar vibrate. A sustainiac lacks that kind of power.

Interesting what you said there Rick about the guitar vibrating because my pc1 has never felt like that even on new batteries. The sustainer seems to work okay. Note holds indefinitely
in the sustain mode, I get the harmonic in the other mode, but I don't think I've ever felt it vibrate, if you meant that literally. Got me curious!

[rjohnstone]

Interesting what you said there Rick about the guitar vibrating because my pc1 has never felt like that even on new batteries. The sustainer seems to work okay. Note holds indefinitely
in the sustain mode, I get the harmonic in the other mode, but I don't think I've ever felt it vibrate, if you meant that literally. Got me curious!

Sounds like the tech that setup your guitar at Jackson went conservative on the feedback (trim pot on upper right side of the board when adjusted with the board installed). With the intensity knob cranked, you should feel it through the whole guitar.

Edit: I can walk you through how to make the adjustments, but be warned... crank it too high and you'll eat batteries like crazy and run the risk of the board failing.
For some reason they still have not updated the design to provide a failsafe to keep the board from cooking itself. All it needs is a solid state circuit breaker that can trip and then reset once voltage drops to a predefined level. Any Type 1 or Type 2 system would work wonderfully in this situation.
I've cooked a few while learning how to repair them.

[Paulzx]

Sounds like the tech that setup your guitar at Jackson went conservative on the feedback (trim pot on upper right side of the board when adjusted with the board installed). With the intensity knob cranked, you should feel it through the whole guitar.

Edit: I can walk you through how to make the adjustments, but be warned... crank it too high and you'll eat batteries like crazy and run the risk of the board failing.
For some reason they still have not updated the design to provide a failsafe to keep the board from cooking itself. All it needs is a solid state circuit breaker that can trip and then reset once voltage drops to a predefined level. Any Type 1 or Type 2 system would work wonderfully in this situation.
I've cooked a few while learning how to repair them.

Thanks Rick,
I'll definitely take you up on this please. I will test it again with new batteries just to check the feel of the intensity