Scarf Joint

[noodlesatf]

Re: Scarf Joint - I\'d rather not

Dovetailing rules, and it only takes about $400 worth of router/shaper bits. Why more people don't follow Bob Taylor's lead, I'll never know.

[Jim Shine]

Re: Scarf Joint - I\'d rather not

Old cheap acoustics often had heads with dovetailed jointed headstocks. I think it looks like ass, but it sure is the right way one jointing them so it will never break there.

Some modern stuff I think is not better than old. I think bolt on necks on acoustics is lame. Part of the craftsmanship was in the precise fitting of a dovetail joint and gluing the neck up. I have been in Bourgeois shop and seen how stuff is made today. Very little hand craftsmanship. The CNC machines most everything to such a tight tolerance the parts are just assembled like a kit.

[noodlesatf]

Re: Scarf Joint - I\'d rather not

I'm on the fence about bolt-on necks. On one hand, it makes them ultra-playable when you are used to playing an electric, but the tone just isn't as nice as, say, my Martin D-28.

[slo100]

Re: Scarf Joint - I\'d rather not

Jim, have you heard of Huss & Dalton? These things are made near me and are supposed to be unbelieveable and, of course, 100% hand crafted. I hear bad things are afoot at my beloved Martin factory.

http://www.hussanddalton.com/

My Guild 12-string has an interesting neck...it is two pieces joined right up the center.

Very good information on the truss rod seal...I'd never have guessed. I have MANY questions about raised tongues as I am tired of dealing with the issue on my guitars. Can you share anything else about the condition and how to guard against it? Any way to reverse the effects of it, or, does a raised neck ever reset itself?

We didn't discuss the implications of having a neck adjusted rod vs. a heel adjusted rod, either. Interesting.

Thanks!
Bret

[Jim Shine]

Re: Scarf Joint - I\'d rather not

If the neck is okay and the tongue is not raised, seal the wood down there with an oil finish or some lacquer on a Q-tip. Let it dry before you put the adjuster nut back in. Sometimes if it seemed real dry, I will apply an extra coat a couple of hours later. Keeping it in a dry room is important too. Some guys I know even seal the neck screw holes, but I never found a need to.

I don't know of any way to reverse severe cases it without planing the board. I know sometimes when it hasn't been exposed to much moisture, simply drying it out will do the job. However if it was exposed to moisture (humidity) for a period of time it will be distorted and will need shaving to correct.

As for the different location of adjusters, you are now dealing with different rules. Most headstock adjuster styles have some sort of residual finish that gets in there, more than the end style where most of the finish hits the rod itself and maybe some of the wood the base of the adjuster nut touches. Glue acts a sort of sealent when the fretboard is attached as most all headstock adjuster recesses follow the fretboard to neck joint and are made before the two pieces are joined. End styles are drilled after the boards are glued on leaving just enough glue for the joint.

I never heard of Huss and Dalton. I will look for them at the shows.