RR1 question

[Flatpicker]

Zeegler,
I think most of those issues were corrected when FMIC took over.
From 02 out the RR1's have been pretty solid.
At least the 3 I tried.

[zeegler]

Zeegler,
I think most of those issues were corrected when FMIC took over.
From 02 out the RR1's have been pretty solid.
At least the 3 I tried.

Very possible. I don't pay a lot of attention to the year of manufacture in most cases. If so, that's great.

[RobRR]

Did ya win it GD? $760... GREAT price for that guitar!

[GrandDreaming]

I didn't win. I had $750 as my highest bid, but would have gone higher if I had time. The winner popped in with 5 seconds left on the auction. It was a bit disappointing. Anyone know of another one for sale anywhere? Ebay is just full of new ones and I tend to prefer the preloved prices.

[rjohnstone]

This is why you always bid your max from the beginning.
Then if someone snipes it at the last second, you won't be saying things like "I had $750 as my highest bid, but would have gone higher if I had time."

[sully]

It's just a designation thing and the only major difference between the Rhoads in question and a newer one (in term of features), is that from around mid 90's and forward, the necks became more chunky, fatter. My guess is that "your" 1992 Rhoads here will have a thinner neck.

if the necks have fattened up over the past few years, it could be because that's how they started out. if you find an early one (85 and earlier), you'll more than likely have one with a thicker neck. those early to mid 80s rhoads are awesome.

[zeegler]

This is why you always bid your max from the beginning.
Then if someone snipes it at the last second, you won't be saying things like "I had $750 as my highest bid, but would have gone higher if I had time."

Aha, but after someone snipes it, you might think: "You know I should have gone $50 higher". I always snipe. I watch the item, and see where the bidding is going. This helps me decide whether it's worth even bidding on. If it stays reasonable, I decide on my price and throw it in with 5 seconds to go. If I win, great. If I don't, then no big deal, it means the guy who bid higher before my snipe bid wanted it more than me.

[rjohnstone]

If you say to yourself that you could have gone another $50, then you didn't bid the max.
I look at an item and think to myself, what is the absoloute most I would spend on THIS item... and then I bid that. If I win, great.

[zeegler]

If you say to yourself that you could have gone another $50, then you didn't bid the max.
I look at an item and think to myself, what is the absoloute most I would spend on THIS item... and then I bid that. If I win, great.

Yeah, but hindsight is always 20/20

The problem is, when you bid early, you get people doing what I call poke-bidding. They don't even necessarily want the item, but they will see your bid, and bid $10 higher, just to see where you're at. They might do this a few times. Another guy comes along and does the same thing. Eventually the bids get driven up close to your max bid, and it's more likely that someone will outbid you in the closing stages. I much prefer auction where no one bids until the end. Items usually sell for cheaper that way.

[rjohnstone]

True they do usualy go cheaper if nobody bids until the auction is nearly over.
And I should clarify, I don't even start bidding until the last 12 to 24 hours of an auction anyway. No point in doing it earlier because of the things you stated.
I hate it when pricks bump you up just to see what your max is.

[Sanctuary]

Bidding early just means you pay more in the end. I always bid in the last few seconds if the item is within the price-range I believe it should be.