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Sorry this happened to you.
Just a few things to remember...
1st, Only an authorized Fender repair facility can get these.
2nd, Don't let any old hack replace it as this is not a simple pickup swap.
Once the driver is replaced, if you go that route, it will have to be recalibrated. I can walk you through it... pretty easy, you just need a screw driver like the kind you fix glasses with.
If you cannot afford a replacement, send the driver to me and I will be more than happy to repair the base. I'll show you how to remove it without trashing the connector.
Mine cracked as well, but once the height is set, there is never a need to adjust it again, unless you change the string height. Even then, any minor string height adjustment would not really require a driver adjustment.
Sorry this happened to you.
Just a few things to remember...
1st, Only an authorized Fender repair facility can get these.
2nd, Don't let any old hack replace it as this is not a simple pickup swap.
Once the driver is replaced, if you go that route, it will have to be recalibrated. I can walk you through it... pretty easy, you just need a screw driver like the kind you fix glasses with.
If you cannot afford a replacement, send the driver to me and I will be more than happy to repair the base. I'll show you how to remove it without trashing the connector.
Mine cracked as well, but once the height is set, there is never a need to adjust it again, unless you change the string height. Even then, any minor string height adjustment would not really require a driver adjustment.
PM me if you want to.
A very cool and gracious offer. Your a good man.
Peace, Love and Happieness and all that stuff...
"Anyone who tries to fling crap my way better have a really good crap flinger."
I personally do not care how it was built as long as it is a good playing/sounding instrument.
I wasn't before this. It's just aggravating to want a guitar, finally get it, and then there's a problem with it. But then again, shipping a guitar can cause all sorts of weird things to happen.
Sorry to hear that - I feel your pain. How should the sustainer be fixed to the mounting plate?
I'd have thought if it was a new guitar when the seller bought it, they'd have just returned it to get it sorted under warranty?.
You're right about the warranty thing.
In fact I was contacted by the original owner this morning who read the thread. It seems that this must have happened in transit. But there is an interesting point that was made. Why is the pickup plate made out of plastic anyway? That doesn't seem very durable.
And the fact that I'm not the only one who's had this problem lets me know that this plastic plate thing is a bigger problem than just mine.
Anyways, I'm going to get it fixed so that's all that's important right now.
I have never seen one of these up close, but wouldn't 5 minute epoxy be strong enough to fix this?
Scott
Be without fear in the face of your enemies. Be brave and upright, that God may love thee. Speak the truth always, even if it leads to your death. Safeguard the helpless and do no wrong.
Unless that was disclosed in the auction, I'd send it back to the seller for a full refund or keep it and demand a partial refund.
And, oh BTW, I previously sent a brand new PC1 back for a near-same issue. Broken mounts, and nothing holding the PU down on the low E side. And I've seen a few others like that. My guess is that Jackson is/was having a QC problem with their supplier for the sustainers.
I wasn't before this. It's just aggravating to want a guitar, finally get it, and then there's a problem with it. But then again, shipping a guitar can cause all sorts of weird things to happen.
It is very possible, it could have happened during shipping. JB weld will work great if you can work it into the area to be bonded. (It's thicker than superglue) Use like a small spatula and some tooth picks to move the JB around. You could also build up the bottom of the flange with some JB weld and make it even stronger. Let it harden at least overnight. It has a much slower cure rate than super glue or 5 min. epoxy. But, if you have used it you know what I mean.
This could get you by while you wait for a replacement pickup. Or, with this one JB Welded it may be stronger than a new one
Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
They base plates are made from plastic for a reason.
The driver is basicaly a very strong oscillating electro magnet.
That's also why it has a shield on one side to prevent interference with/from the middle pickup.
If the base were made from metal, it could become magentized and cause issues with the drivers performance.
I don't know why they don't use some non magnetic material like an aluminium alloy instead of plastic, but I'm sure cost has a lot to do with it.
Yeah, or even some composite reinforced type of plastic. The part doesn't really seem strong enough. I haven't had the need to remove the driver from my PC1's yet. It's got me curious though. Figuring my luck, I probably remove the darn thing and see that mine's broke too:ROTF: This may be one from "Ask Jackson" category to look into it.
Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
Yeah, or even some composite reinforced type of plastic. The part doesn't really seem strong enough. I haven't had the need to remove the driver from my PC1's yet. It's got me curious though. Figuring my luck, I probably remove the darn thing and see that mine's broke too:ROTF: This may be one from "Ask Jackson" category to look into it.
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