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The speed neck also has thinner frets. They are still a "jumbo" type high , but thinner. To me, the speed neck with the thinner frets feels better. I prefer the KV2 and Y2KV necks to the RR necks. I am sure it is personal preference though.
The last USA Charvel line had pretty much a speed neck profile, at least my Star does, but it's got jumbo frets and not the smaller, medium jumbo. The medium jumbo is what Dave Mustaine preferred, so that got carried over on the KV line.
I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.
since i've been through a few guitars in the last 6 months...
and this is IMHO
My KV1 and 2 both have way thinner necks than the rhoads I sold to toejam and the kelly's I ebayed and my old bgf sl2h I owned for 8 or so years...
imho.. the neck on the sl2h and ke-2 are exactly the same, the rhoads neck is just a hair fatter the sl2h/ke2.... and i mean just a hair fatter.
never played a warrior but since it's a 24 fret 25.5 scale with jumbo frets like the sl2h and ke2... it's probably the same as the sl2h/ke2 neck
all my kv's are way thinner, almost ibanez thin, which is why I switched all of my guitars to those... kv2 neck is killer but it still needs the railroad ties for frets. I've already got mad fretwear on my quicksilver kv2... 1st - 6th frets have huge potholes already
like I said, just my opinion since i've recently played all those..
USA Doublerhoads Custom Shop
USA King V Custom Shop X Series
I prefer thicker necks, and I've got smaller hands. If a neck is too thin, it will tend to cramp up your hand. The KV necks are thin (and very comfortable), but they're not Ibanez Wizard thin. The old Dinky necks were closer to Ibanez, but still a little thicker. I think the Dinky necks are a little more inconsistent these days and vary in thickness.
Be a real man and get a Mark Morton model... thick ass neck, which I believe is even thicker than the Phil Collen model!
I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.
since i've been through a few guitars in the last 6 months...
and this is IMHO
My KV1 and 2 both have way thinner necks than the rhoads I sold to toejam and the kelly's I ebayed and my old bgf sl2h I owned for 8 or so years...
imho.. the neck on the sl2h and ke-2 are exactly the same, the rhoads neck is just a hair fatter the sl2h/ke2.... and i mean just a hair fatter.
never played a warrior but since it's a 24 fret 25.5 scale with jumbo frets like the sl2h and ke2... it's probably the same as the sl2h/ke2 neck
all my kv's are way thinner, almost ibanez thin, which is why I switched all of my guitars to those... kv2 neck is killer but it still needs the railroad ties for frets. I've already got mad fretwear on my quicksilver kv2... 1st - 6th frets have huge potholes already
like I said, just my opinion since i've recently played all those..
Randy, as for my own experience with Kelllys and King Vs, I'm undecided. They feel different to me too, but there are so many differences between the guitars and how you position your hands when you play them (plus the fret difference) that I'm a bit hesitant to attribute that to the necks being different. But I had wondered about it and the info on the Jackson homepage. That's why I brought it up when you put one of your Kellys up for sale. Anyways, aren't there any Jackson company guys around that could put an end to this discussion?
Reading the Jackson specs again, I see that they don't really say anything about the shape of back of the neck, so I decided to measure my KV2 and my KE2. I measured the width of the fretboard and the length along the back of the neck at the 1st and 12th fret. The lengths are, as far as I can tell, the same.
Reading the Jackson specs again, I see that they don't really say anything about the shape of back of the neck, so I decided to measure my KV2 and my KE2. I measured the width of the fretboard and the length along the back of the neck at the 1st and 12th fret. The lengths are, as far as I can tell, the same.
Generally true (for example if it is piecewise linear), but for simple curves like circles or ellipsoids, the length of the curve should be a good indication of the shape. For example, if the back of the neck had the form of a piece of a circle, then the length would be an indication of the radius of the circle and thus the shape. My tools are of course also rather crude so there could be some differences that I just couldn't measure.
Hehe, I did actually consider your point when I wrote about my measurements, but I didn't want this to turn into a theorem-proof style argument
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