The old JT-6 to OFR Swap on a Soloist

[nsubulysses]

Well, I swapped out the JT-6 on my Soloist for a Floyd as many people have. The problem I had was that the OFR locking nut wouldn't fit on my guitar. It was an R3 nut.

The reason it wouldn't fit is because the screws that come out the bottom of the locking nut aren't wide enough apart and they fit into the route that is drilled for the truss rod on the neck.

I looked on fretsonthenet.com but didn't see any kind of locking nut that would work. There must be a simple solution to this. Please enlighten me! Have you guys had this problem?

[scotty]

Don't worry about the nut, keep the old one. It will work fine without having to mod your guitar.

[nsubulysses]

Well, I want to change it because it stays in tune almost perfect, but it still 'clicks' a little when you mess with the trem and goes just slightly sharp/flat. I want to do away with the JT-6 pot metal and get the real deal to accompany my OFR.

This is my one good guitar so I have to make it as badass as possible.
'

[scotty]

Are you sure the problem is with the nut? I have several OFRs installed with the old Kahler nut and don't have that problem. Installing a FR nut will require routing.

http://www.georgemangos.com/floyd/index.htm

[El Chiguete]

Maybe the nut is a little loose or not tight enough?

[diablomozart]

i did this on a few mid 80's jacksons...rather i took it to a luthier or sent it to jackson...the method they all used was to add a piece of ebony where the nut would sit then use it to place the mounting screws in...after seeing what they did i can't say i would recommend it for anyone but an experienced luthier...and yeah i had zero problems with them...d.m.

[Cuthbert]

Well, I want to change it because it stays in tune almost perfect, but it still 'clicks' a little when you mess with the trem and goes just slightly sharp/flat. I want to do away with the JT-6 pot metal and get the real deal to accompany my OFR.

This is my one good guitar so I have to make it as badass as possible.
'

I'd suggest to treat the nut with graphite and check the post lock, everything should work fine, keep into account that if you hear the "clicks" you would heard them with the JT-6 as well, therefore it's almost sure that there is a problem.

Personally, I'll replace the locking nut with a new one of the same type, but I wouldn't re-route for a FR nut, it's a waste.

[J.C. Harrist]

I'd suggest to treat the nut with graphite

Why would you put graphite on a locking nut?

[nsubulysses]

Nah, it definitely gives a little clicky every once in a while at the locking nut. And I guess I wasn't clear it's not that I want to remove the nut for a floyd locking nut. I want to swap out the lock after the nut (see pic).

And it's not a Kahler locking nut. It's like this

It's the same cheap metal as the JT-6

Seems like something like this Kahler locking nut would work better? It definitely looks like the holes for the screws are in the same spots.

[VitaminG]

Why would you put graphite on a locking nut?

as you can see in nsub's pic, these have a regular nut ahead of the locking mechanism. So it can still be a point for the strings to hang up on

[dg]

Nah, it definitely gives a little clicky every once in a while at the locking nut. And I guess I wasn't clear it's not that I want to remove the nut for a floyd locking nut. I want to swap out the lock after the nut .

If the problem is grooved locking plates, Dave (Budman) carries replacement locking plates for the JT-6 lock at fretsonthenet.com. Another possibility that can cause clicking or creaking is that the whole assembly is shifting. This can be due to loose mounting screws or stripped screw holes in the wood.

[nsubulysses]

So the replacement locking plates Budman makes are made out of harder metal? If that's the I will order promptly.

ALSO, I was thinking about ordering the Floyd mounting posts that Budman has on his site as well. I still have the JT-6 ones in my guitar. Has anyone done this. Is it a noticeable difference? I guess you can get a larger range with the trem but it it negligable? These:

[nsubulysses]

PS. Thanks DG

[MetalMedal II]

Seems like something like this Kahler locking nut would work better? It definitely looks like the holes for the screws are in the same spots.

In my experience, the real Kahler lock nut will work better. It's harder metal overall. The ones above can get grooves in the top of the lock, which impede the ability to lock the string, even if the the plates are replaced. The first thing I'd try is replace the slotted screws with screws that use an allen wrench to tighten them (most decent hardware stores have them). I could never tighten the screws enough with a coin or screwdriver like they were advertised...it's much easier to torque em down with a wrench like FR nuts.

If replacing it with a Kahler, the Kahler has slightly narrowed mounting screw spacing. I have plugged and redrilled one side, or all 4 holes, but you may get away with angling all 4 screws toward the center.

[nsubulysses]

Thanks Metal Maiden