Floyd Suggestions and Help

[Mr.Shreddy]

Hey guys, Merry Christmas to everyone! I got an OFR as a gift and swapped it out for the Korean trem on my socal. So far, everything is superb, but I noticed today that when I dive bomb or lightly depress the bar, it returns flat, not exactly to pitch. I have 10's and play in standard, but when I use the floyd it comes back around Eb. I've heard of guys using candle wax on the knife edges to keep them lubricated and was wondering it this would do the trick, or if it is a typical thing with new floyds. I replaced the studs to the OFR ones along with the locking R3 nut FWIW. Thanks in advance for any replies! -Mike

[Newc]

Did you use the new springs as well? And is this a "brand new" OFR and all accessories, not a used one or used parts?

If everything's brand new never-been-used, then I'd say the strings aren't stretched out enough, or the nut clamps aren't doing too well on the 10s and they're slipping.


Does it return to the correct pitch if after divebombing you pull the trem back?

[Mr.Shreddy]

Hey Newc, yeah I replaced the new springs too, but not the clamp. It is a brand new factory floyd, right out of the bag (I guess they don't use boxes anymore?)

I think you nailed it right on the head, I never thought about the strings, they are the coated Ernies and probably need some breaking in along with the string clamps at the nut, like you said I think it's slippery because everything is brand-spankin' new.

Yeah, when I pull up on the bar, the pitch returns perfectly in tune and stays until I push it down again...

[Grandturk]

Did you change the studs?

Check the nut. Loosen the screws holding it to the neck, make sure its pressed tight to the fretboard, then tighten the screws back down.

Check the trem cavity and make sure the springs are properly seated in the trem block and on the claw. Make sure the springs are not rubbing on either the body or the trem cover - especially when depressing the bar.

FWIW - I beleive this will have nothing to do with "stretching" strings, as on a double locking trem, there is no reason to "stretch" the strings.

[Mr.Shreddy]

Yeah I replaced the studs too, and I'll try your suggestions.

I think the stretch situation is passed by the double-locking factor (good statement!)

The strings touch the wood in the back cavity when I dive, but I have to dive really far, with the bar almost touching the pickguard... hmm...

[Mr.Shreddy]

I put the stock springs back in and that seemed to help, along with tightening down the R3. It seems to come up just a sliver short still, but not enough to notice while playing, so I'll live with it. Any other suggestions are more than welcome and thanks again to help already!

[Lizardkinged]

Graphite Lead Pencil Trick.

I use this on my non locking trems @ the nut. prevents snags. same thing for string slots on the bridge.

I've brought this up a few times today to try on the Saddles. Not that this will help you.

[Mr.Shreddy]

Thanks? I use this on my Gibsons, but this is for a floyd rose trem...

[Lizardkinged]

I never said it would help you with this problem. haha.

[Mr.Shreddy]

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Buy, low, sell high. That has nothing to do with guitars, but I thought I'd randomly post that in your thread.

IIRC all of my Floyds will return just a little bit flat like you describe (after you've worked on it) when checked on a tuner. Even the factory installed ones on USA Jacksons and Charvels, it shows up on a tuner but it's not anything that my ear can detect as far as being "off."

If the string clamps are loose, they will return sharp from a dive, and when you pull back, they will be flat. This will happen even on a non-floating tremolo.

[m2pmd70]

Make sure you didn't accidentally put the nut blocks back on the wrong way too. You should see the U shaped face of the blocks from the side of the neck.

[Mr.Shreddy]

Thanks guys, yeah whatever it was, it's fine now, I can't notice the difference with the return anymore.

When you say "U-shaped" what do you mean? The three blocks are facing so that the part that rises in the middle is parallel to the strings...

Thank you guys again for the help and replies, it's appreciated!

[Newc]

FWIW - I beleive this will have nothing to do with "stretching" strings, as on a double locking trem, there is no reason to "stretch" the strings.

And from experience, I can tell you that even with a Floyd, you have to stretch the strings not only before you lock them, but afterwards.

Floyds are designed with 9s in mind. With thicker strings, the locks simply cannot grip as tightly, particularly on the 5th and 6th strings, and since you've got a wound 4th and a plain 3rd sharing one lock, there's some slippage going on there as well due to the difference in thickness and texture.

Going from 10s to 9s would also most likely require a new set of locks, if you've used 10s on it for a number of years.

[Grandturk]

And from experience, I can tell you that even with a Floyd, you have to stretch the strings not only before you lock them, but afterwards.

We're just going to have to agree to disagree on this point. I've been using 10's for a while on my Floyds, and have not been stretching them at all when doing string changes and have had rock solid tuning stability.

I do agree that once you've worn slots into the locks/nut, you're going to have to replace them if you switch guages, and eventually even with the same gauge (I can't spell gauge... guage... gague??? HELP!!!).

Best way I've found to tell if you've got you're nut's locked is to strike a string, then bend them behind the nut. If you hear a pitch change, you're not locked. Something to note - you don't have to crank down on the lock nut - that's how you get grooves in the first place.