B string buzz.. still

[Digitised]

I have recently replaced the R3 nut in my WR1 to try and get rid of open string buzz on the high B string.

This is obviously a floyded guitar, it only buzzes (not fret buzz) on the open B position. The buzz does not appear when fretting any other note on that string, or alternate B notes on other strings (for example 4th fret G string = clean B).


I have opened up the cavitys and put my finger on everything that could move or create any noise, but im competely puzzled as to why it still buzzes on a fresh R3 nut, which appears to be in perfect order.

The buzz sounds like it is compounding overtones, it seems to pick up harmonics on itself and is very loud in comparison to other open strings.


Any ideas, other than shoot myself?

[Grandturk]

I've noticed recently that I've not been getting clear open strings on Floyd nutted guitars. My first ProMod had that problem with the high E. I had also heard that Suhr used that as his reason for switching to Gotoh floyds.

Apparantly, you can file/sand/smooth the nut in order to "fix" this issue - but I just bought a new nut and that solved it.

[Spivonious]

That's an odd problem. Since it's only on the open G, that leads me to think it's something between the nut and the bridge. Can you tell where the buzz is coming from? Does it go away if you raise the action?

[Grandturk]

No no - he said open B string. He said the B on the G string doesn't buzz to rule out some type of "resonant frequency" vibration. This seems to me a pretty cut and dried nut-related problem.

[Spivonious]

No no - he said open B string. He said the B on the G string doesn't buzz to rule out some type of "resonant frequency" vibration. This seems to me a pretty cut and dried nut-related problem.

But he said he already replaced the nut and the problem didn't go away. I'm thinking it's a slightly raised first fret.

[Digitised]

Well the nut that was in it was certainly worn (despite being sold as a new guitar).
I replaced the nut today after the new one arrived from the US, it was in brand new condition and seems to be fine from examination.

So again for the record, this is a brand new nut. Unless there is a history of having to fix new nuts which i am unaware of?
In which case what am i looking to achieve?
I can take pictures if necessary.

[lerxstcat]

But he said he already replaced the nut and the problem didn't go away. I'm thinking it's a slightly raised first fret.

I have also seen a number of Floyded guitars where the B string seemed to ride just a tad lower than the others, if you look at the bridge. They make metal shims to go under the bridge saddles to raise them, I wonder if that could be it? Seems if the first fret was too high that all the strings would have the problem. Since it's just the B, maybe look at the saddle for that string.

[toejam]

Did you check the fine tuner? I had a guitar that had a weird B string buzz, I traced it back to the fine tuner. I just turned the tuner a little bit and the buzz went away.

[Digitised]

Yes ive checked the fine tuner.

Ill check the saddle now and see what i can find.

[Tricky]

Have you checked the string height over the first fret?
Should be .021

[Grandturk]

So again for the record, this is a brand new nut. Unless there is a history of having to fix new nuts which i am unaware of?
In which case what am i looking to achieve?

I'm pretty sure this is what I read that John Suhr had found as well - that brand new floyd nuts were coming in that had to be modified to alleviate problems. It could be that a lot of new Floyd nuts are defective and you just got two of them. I certainly had one.

How about getting some fine sand paper and giving that particular slot the once over to remove any potential burrs?

[Digitised]

arghh i give up for today.

Annoying that i spent $45usd on an R3 and it fixed nothing.
Ill have to take it in to my local shop and see if i can get help sometime.
I shimmed the saddle with a peice of card, so it was higher than the other saddles, but problem remained, then I tried swapping the saddle with the A string but for some reason the B string wont pinch when you tighten the bolt, it popped out when i was tuning back up, so that idea didnt work out so good.

This is going to eat up all my days off at this rate.

[Grandturk]

Just return the one nut and exchange it for another. Keep doing so until your problem is solved.

[lerxstcat]

arghh i give up for today.

Annoying that i spent $45usd on an R3 and it fixed nothing.
Ill have to take it in to my local shop and see if i can get help sometime.
I shimmed the saddle with a peice of card, so it was higher than the other saddles, but problem remained, then I tried swapping the saddle with the A string but for some reason the B string wont pinch when you tighten the bolt, it popped out when i was tuning back up, so that idea didnt work out so good.

This is going to eat up all my days off at this rate.

The A string? That's a wound string, quite possible the block for that has more wear of being up against a larger string, so it won't tighten up enough against the much smaller B string.

But if the shimming didn't work then I guess the saddle is not the issue.

You know, Yamaha has an ingenius locknut that has hex screw height adjustments built in. Because if the problem isn't a burr in the nut, it may be that the whole locknut doesn't sit quite high enough. You can shim that too, but the Yamaha locknuts you don't have to do that, which i always thought was a good idea on their part. Prolly makes 'em more costly too, though....

[Tricky]

If it only happens when you play the B string open & not when you fret the string, Its not the bridge saddle.
I still say check the string hight at the first fret. If that checks out OK, .021, then it could be the string itself.