? For electronics guys

[Riffmeister]

I need a part to fix a pedal I have, it physically exploded .... It is a capacitor and it says Sprague 500D 400-25 D.C USA 7818H +

I did some searching but came up with so much stuff that Didn't even look like this part that I gave up. I hope that I am not trying to find something that doesn't exist anymore

Any help is appreciated.

[Twitch]

Looks like its rated at 25 vdc, is there a # followed or preceeded by a mu(correct spelling greek alphabet?), anyhow a backwards u, maybe as in 400 u or 400 pu. If you know the voltage rating and the rated capacitence(the "u" or "pu") then all you need is to buy a new one of the same values and physical size. There will be many different compositions of the inner workings, ie. radial, thin film, ceramic etc. This is not quite as important as long as you get the right specs and physical size youll be fine.

[Cygnus X1]

Normally...usually when a cap pops it is a symptom of something else that went wrong.
They don't always give up the ghost all on their own.

Sorry, but that is all I have for you.

[atvdave]

capacitors are rated in farads. So if you have say a 500 micro farad cap it will read something like 500mf.

You need the farad rating along with the votage... ie... 500mf, 500pf, 500uf......

A pic of the old one if available will help.

[Cygnus X1]

What I'm trying to say here is there is prbably something else wrong that took out that cap.

If you're going to buy one, buy 5 so you have enough by the time you figure out what the real problem is.
I could be wrong, but ...

[Riffmeister]

Sorry guys, but I wrote the #'s in the post exactly as they are on the thing.

Here is a pic of the same pedal, the part in ? is the round blue thing in the top corner

http://www.modezero.com/mxr-flanger.htm

[Newc]

That's an Electrolytic Capacitor, to be precise. Judging by the number, I'd say it was 400mfd and 25vdc like Twitch said.

http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?numProdsPerPage=60&categoryId=2032267&pg=1&retainProdsInSession=1

[DonP]

Think of the 400mf and 25v as a minimum. You don't need to get this exact number, but it must excede these specs, and most importantly, it must fit.

And like Cyg has said, unless the cap failed on it's own, if there is something wrong with the circuit, a replaced cap will fail again.

Caps do fail all the time. They fail on Motherboards, on powersupplies. And sometimes, they fail fairly quickly. I had a 450w PS that failed early, and the replacement caps were larger, so I put the caps in a box outside of the power supply and ran wires to and from.

[Riffmeister]

So this one should work right? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60

The values are a little higher, but they were the closest I could find.

How do you know weather they fit or not ? My local Radio Shack doesn't carry it in stock so I can't look at it. Oh, and What does Axial lead mean?

My flnager has worked fine for the six years I have had it, and I hadn't played it for a LONG time, then I hooked it up one day and WAHM, I head this pop and it didn't work all the sudden.

I hope that it isn't like you guys said and is another issue that made the resistor go. Is it common for them to physically come apart when they go as opposed to just not working anymore? The end of this thing was blown almost off.

A little off subject, but can anyone tell me what part it is in this original MXR Flanger that is hard to find or not available any longer? I was told that is why they have become so high in price, since one of the chips or something isn't produced any longer.

[atvdave]

What does Axial lead mean?

It means that the leads are coming out from the top & bottom like in the pic, and the old pic you posted. Some cap's have 2 leads coming out of the bottom , or sides right next to each other.

I wouldn't worry about the resistors, but the transistors may have taken a beating. I'd be concerned about that power transistor next to the cap.

And to answer your other question,,, yes I have seen many cap's blow on there own. They get hot and the plates & insulators start to break down and then they just short out. Not saying that it's your only problem..

a good product that works good at removing the old solder is called solder wick. also get a few small heat sinks to help keep the heat from the soldering iron from burning up the cap leads, and any other part connected to the same circuit.



Anyway, good luck.