Floyd Rose Comparison

[Trussrod]

First, that is NOT what tensile strength is a measurement of. Look it up.

Second, as to the rest of your post, that's a great theory you have come up with.

However, you can make some assumptions based on why a particular fact is true and then theorize about how that might affect this or that and that doesn't mean you have proven anything, and thus, you are just pulling stuff out of your ass, as I said before.

Metallurgy is a science, and you don't prove things in science by theorizing. It has to be tested.

IIRC the Rockwell Hardness Scale is used to measure hardness... BTW if metal is too hard it becomes brittle. So hardened steel in many applications is double heat treated to be soft on the inside and hard on the surface--the best of both worlds when it comes to durability.

IMO the cheap LFR that came with my Washburn Dimebolt 333 is better than the MIG OFR's I've used. I tested both on my 333 and would have to go with the LFR in this case.

[ralph]

IIRC the Rockwell Hardness Scale is used to measure hardness... BTW if metal is too hard it becomes brittle. So hardened steel in many applications is double heat treated to be soft on the inside and hard on the surface--the best of both worlds when it comes to durability.

Right, hardened steel is stronger and gets more brittle, but because it is more brittle is more likely to break when shocked, soft steel will not break as easily when shocked, but will wear away quicker, so if it is hard on the outside it will wear more slowly, and soft in the middle so that it is more resistant to shock

IMO the cheap LFR that came with my Washburn Dimebolt 333 is better than the MIG OFR's I've used. I tested both on my 333 and would have to go with the LFR in this case.

This is definately possible, just because a trem is licenced, does not mean that it has to be made with lower quality materials, i.e. a LFR could be made out of titanium which would be superier to a german OFR, if someone was willing to make such a trem, the Ibanez Edge is a good example of a quality trem that is on par with an OFR

Its just probably cheaper to buy and use an OFR than to produce a superior or similar quality licenced version, unless like ibanez the reputation is already there

[Trussrod]

Right, hardened steel is stronger and gets more brittle, but because it is more brittle is more likely to break when shocked, soft steel will not break as easily when shocked, but will wear away quicker, so if it is hard on the outside it will wear more slowly, and soft in the middle so that it is more resistant to shock

This applies to pressure as well as surface wear. When Springfield copied the Mauser 98 action they failed to double heat treat the recievers. Eventually they figured this out and I used to have a list of '03 gun serials to avoid. Even so it doesn't have to be a big issue. In the '90's Chinese-made M14's with the same issue appeared in the US. A company offered to heat treat the barreled recievers to the correct Rockwell hardness for about $100 USD.

[CKJ]

Original GT-40's had 289's in them and they will wipe the floor with any chev

Anybody can build a 2K lb car and put a 289 in it and it'll fly.. I said big power, not weight reduction It'd also be more impressive if it was a more known production car, not something just designed to race the Le Mans. Fords honestly could never make good power, they always had to rely on weight. People w/ notch back fox mustangs put 350's in them and they absolutely scat! Their philosophy now is to put blowers on everything.

[CKJ]

1" impact is for small jobs, on a truss bridge we use a spline-drive, called a "yo-yo" and I've heard it called a 'transmission.' 1 1/8" x 7 1/4" bolts went to 90,000 ft/lbs, anything less than 4 1/2" gets 65k. Ever seen a 1" bolt head snap off? Duck! They get really hot too.

Not everybody builds bridges everyday

I bet that's a helluva job! Got any pics of the "yo-yo"? Is it just a giant torque multiplier?

[warlok]

I think we need a trem on the market forged in the ways of the samurai!!

[Scooter]

This is a 1" spline drive on 7/8" bolts. I don't have any of just the impact. CP and IR make bigger ones, no pics of them, but Google show images of a few.



I dont think I'd use it for a car, the first 2-3 hits cranks it up to 4000 ft/lbs. Definately tear a floyd into a thousnd pieces.

[Scooter]

I think we need a trem on the market forged in the ways of the samurai!!

+1

[mantis]

It's definitely a good thing that you started a thread about this, since it hasn't been discussed in a few months!

Here's the thing... From what I understand about what you understand, someone pulled some comments out of their ass about the Korean Floyd being made of inferior materials and you believed it. They didn't show you a detailed metallurgical analysis, or show you any specifics about the process, they just pulled that "inferior materials" shit out of their ass, and you believed it.

Or, did someone send a Korean Floyd base plate to a metallurgical lab for testing and post a results sheet or something? Maybe I missed that.

We don't KNOW anything about the Korean Floyd's longevity. Anyone who says that they do, is FULL OF SHIT.

Here is what I do know:

1. The base plate is slightly thicker
2. The base plate shape is not exactly the same (they don't work in a Warmoth recessed Floyd mount, for example)
3. The saddles are different
4. The bar/collar is different
5. The nut is different
6. All of the fasteners are different

Inferior? Who knows. How long would it take you to wear one out? Who knows.

If you absolutely must have the PROVEN unit then by all means, spend the $170 to replace it with a genuine, MIG Floyd, but don't believe the "FR2000 sux, lol" guys have any idea what they are actually talking about.

I've seen so many posts over the years about how the FRT02000 and the FRT1000 sucks balls and is junk and I'm offended that there is one in this guitar, I gotta rip it out and get a MIG Floyd Original etc etc etc.
So I do know something about the Longevity of the FRT Floyd's as I have one that is now 10 years old. I can tell you this, it's exactly as good as when it was new. I have NO tuning issues, NO Intonation issues and NO quality stripping out or anything. It's just fine.
Mine came in my 2006 which I purchased Brand new right out of it's shipping box Jackson SL3 which is a Japanese made guitar. This guitar has been my work horse up to 2014 which I picked up my 2013 Charvel Pro Mod San Dimas HS HT. It doesn't get played nearly as much since then and even less today since I picked up my 2016 Charvel Pro Mod San Dimas HH HT( Which by the way is my favorite guitar or all time now even over my loved 1964 Gibson Melody Maker, it's right there with that).
This weekend I just changed strings on it, I went from 9-42 to 10-46, had to adjust the springs and string height a bit, Truss rod was cool which honestly this guitar only has had it adjusted 3 times in 10 years as it stays true( Amazingly well built guitar).

I just made a new thread before I found this one as I wanted to learn about all the fuss over the FRT series Trem's from Floyd Rose. I'm gonna buy at least 2 or 3 more Charvel Pro Mod's and they have the FRT's on them as well.
I'm the very first guy in line for quality. I hate cheap crap. I will not buy ever a lower end guitar with knock off parts on it. I have seen some very awesome looking guitars for $599 and below and I shy away knowing it's cheaply made even if I really LOVE how it looks. Case and point the Jackson Adrain Smith White with Black pick guard top mounted Floyd HSS guitar I saw when it came out and wanted to buy it even without playing it. I was excited and saw the $499 price tag and got concerned. I sat down and played it for like an hour or more and hung it back up and walked away from it disappointed. It felt cheap, sounded thin and didn't stay in tune. I had to constantly tune it every few minutes.
I tried so hard to like it as the price point I thought was a steal but in reality it was priced right.

So back to the Floyd's FRT's, they are just fine work fine and are not junk as some would believe. I would like to read some comments on people who had issues with them. I have owned 3 guitars with them and had no issues so far.

[1337storm]

In my opinion the best quality Floyds these days are the Gotohs.
The quality of the OFR:s has been going downhill for quite a while and since the original Schaller's died I get the feeling it has accelerated.
Just compare a new OFR with a 25 year old one and you will see what I mean, look at the detailing of the saddles and nuts, they are not what they used to be, ever so often you will need to file both saddles and nuts to get rid of citar noices and strange intonation problems cased by the fact that the strings dont have a clean break away from the surfaces, that never ever happened in the old days.
Compared to a Gotoh there is no competition.
Strangely the Schaller Lockmeister still has quite good quality.

[Texas Crude]

In my opinion the best quality Floyds these days are the Gotohs.
The quality of the OFR:s has been going downhill for quite a while and since the original Schaller's died I get the feeling it has accelerated.
Just compare a new OFR with a 25 year old one and you will see what I mean, look at the detailing of the saddles and nuts, they are not what they used to be, ever so often you will need to file both saddles and nuts to get rid of citar noices and strange intonation problems cased by the fact that the strings dont have a clean break away from the surfaces, that never ever happened in the old days.
Compared to a Gotoh there is no competition.
Strangely the Schaller Lockmeister still has quite good quality.

With you on the Gotohs. I can't speak for the OFR, but had an old Schaller years ago that turned into a complete POS after a few years due to the pot metal the base plate was made of. The Gotoh is the only unit I'll use. Costs less than OFR, to boot.

[Zedder]

In my opinion the best quality Floyds these days are the Gotohs.
The quality of the OFR:s has been going downhill for quite a while and since the original Schaller's died I get the feeling it has accelerated.
Just compare a new OFR with a 25 year old one and you will see what I mean, look at the detailing of the saddles and nuts, they are not what they used to be, ever so often you will need to file both saddles and nuts to get rid of citar noices and strange intonation problems cased by the fact that the strings dont have a clean break away from the surfaces, that never ever happened in the old days.
Compared to a Gotoh there is no competition.
Strangely the Schaller Lockmeister still has quite good quality.

What do you mean with ´since original Schaller´s died´ and ´Schaller Lockmeister still has quite good quality`? Both Schaller OFR and Schaller Lockmeister are made at the same factory in Germany. Saddle shells and locking nuts should be same parts on both, base plate size is just a little bit larger on Lockmeister. There should not be any quality difference between OFR and Lockmeister.

[1337storm]

I know that they are made by the same manufacturer, that's why I said "strangely" because the last 2-3 Lockmeister's I bought was better than the last 2-3 OFR:s I bought.
I don't really have any explanation, I just noticed the facts.

[xenophobe]

In my opinion the best quality Floyds these days are the Gotohs.
The quality of the OFR:s has been going downhill for quite a while and since the original Schaller's died I get the feeling it has accelerated.

I haven't noticed any decline in quality on the OFRs... maybe the molds for the saddles need to be redone, I dunno... but there are less machining striation marks on the newer baseplates.

I totally agree with the Gotoh being superior. There is far more design and detail put into the Gotohs... and I absolutely love the screw in bars, the trem spring retainer screws and the locking trem posts.

Not to mention Japanese steel is the best in the world.

[Number Of The Priest]

Where is the best source to buy genuine Gotoh OFRs? AllParts? https://www.allparts.com/SB-5300-003...ck_p_3293.html

I assume they are a direct replacement for the OFR, JT-590, JT-6, JT-580LP, etc. with no modifications required?