Greenish corrosion

[Twitch]

Theres greenish corrosion on nearly all the frets of my DKGMTFF. Whats the best way to get rid of it? Also, what could I do to keep it from reappearing? The guitar is stored no different, in the same room and played just as much, but the other guitars are not showing any signs of the corrosion. Theres also green corrosion spots starting on the neck plate(kind of like when chrome starts to pit). This is kind of freaking me out, so any tips would be appreciated.

[Trussrod]

I have this on one of my guitars (not a Jackson). It might be copper in the fret wire. I've taken it off on occasion with steel wool, but haven't considered a re-fret so far. I'm interested in other options for this issue, too.

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

In IN, at this time of year, you're getting corrosion? :think:

First, especially on the frets, don't freak out. A little Brasso should take it right off. Good as new. It's a very minimal amount of metal that gets removed and unless you have deep pits it will polish right off.

You can do them one at a time with two strips of masking tape. Put them on either side fo the fret, polish it up, and then move on to the next fret.

To keep it from reappearing, I don't know, really. I would be leery of putting any kind of oil on there because you don't really want to get that on the wood so much, and it would just rub off anyway. Best thing to do is wash your hands well after you eat your french fries and wipe it down after you sweat all over it.

My old DK1 was like that when I bought it (used) and I joked that the guy must have really liked McDonalds... Rusty bridge, rusty screws in the mounting rings, corroded, dull frets... That thing was a salty, nasty mess. I don't worry about fingerprints but I will wipe sweat off right away or give it a good cleaning ASAP.

[jackson1]

I use 000 steel wool and some tape for protection of the fingerboard. It should stay ok for a long time after this treatment, especially if you wipe it down after use like Jazz mentioned. If the green comes back easily, I am out of advise:

[Twitch]

Cool, thanks. Ill try the Brasso idea and the 000 steal wool. Another interesting fact though, apparently, Ive never had the neck off on this guitar. I took the neck off a few min ago just out of curiosity, and low and behold, theres a date stamp of June 2004. I always figured it was an 03.

The frets arent as bad as thought though. In poor light with the strings on it, they looked rather green. I took the strings off and in decent light theyre more of a tarnished grey color with just a hint of green. The wifey is conditioning the fret board as we speak(she likes doing it for some reason, so I let her, kind of a bonding thing I guess). You should see all the smoke shes getting off of it, pretty bad.

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

Henrik is right also, steel wool is good I just don't like to get that near my pickups so it requires a little more tape than the Brasso.

Hey, Twitch make sure your girl goes easy on the oil. Rosewood doesn't really need to be oiled much at all. I honestly hate to see people soaking their fretboards with oil and rubbing it in under the pretense that it is good for the wood, because it isn't.

I use that Formby's "lemon oil" stuff on Rosewood and it takes like, three to five drops on a paper towel to clean it and leave just a little sheen. Maybe a couple of times a year is good.

So many people have gotten the idea that soaking the fretboard with the stuff every string change is the thing to do.

[Twitch]

So many people have gotten the idea that soaking the fretboard with the stuff every string change is the thing to do.

Christ no. This is actually the first time in 4 years that this guitar has gotten any oil. Im lazy. I dont even change strings until A. They dont intonate properly anymore, B. They break, or C. The unwrapped strings are so rusted they feel rough. Thats pretty bad, I know, I usually dont even realize that the strings have been on that long until the shit goes down. I just play until the bad strings get in the way.

I will say this though. I usually dont like the coated strings like the Elixers that were on the guitar this go round, but they actually were bright(sound wise) and shiny until I broke two strings after about 2 1/2 months of normal use. If they were cheaper, I may consider them again in the future.

[toejam]

Theres also green corrosion spots starting on the neck plate(kind of like when chrome starts to pit). This is kind of freaking me out, so any tips would be appreciated.

I've also got a little green corrosion on the neckplate screws of my '94 Dinky HX. I've gotta clean it eventually...

[DonP]

First off, stop peeing on your guitars

Second, moisture is what's causing the oxidation. Somehow, someway, water in the air is getting to the guitar. Maybe find some of those water absorbing packets that they put into beef jerkey and throw a few in the case.

Oiling is good because it's a barrier to water. Maybe wax as well.

For the fretboard, I clean with formby stuff, but use Dr. Bore Oil after to condition the fretboard. I stick a Q-Tip in the oil 1/2 of the tip, and this does most of the fretboard. So 1/2 of the tip of a Q-Tip of oil. I try not to get it close to the frets.

I do mine less often than once a year - 2 3 or more years between oilings.

[MakeAJazzNoiseHere]

That's why I asked about the location Don... I've got two humidifiers running to keep it up to 45% humidity and I'm in Indianapolis.

Twitch, if you have a humidifier on your furnace maybe check that it's not set way high. 45% is a pretty good balance for the comfort of both humans and guitars.

[Twitch]

That's why I asked about the location Don... I've got two humidifiers running to keep it up to 45% humidity and I'm in Indianapolis.

Twitch, if you have a humidifier on your furnace maybe check that it's not set way high. 45% is a pretty good balance for the comfort of both humans and guitars.

Like I said, the other 2 guitars arent having any issues, just the MG. It was probly just the first time I really noticed it, like a I said, cleaned the fretboard once in 4 years.

[Trussrod]

I wrap steel wool around a small magnet to keep the steel fibers from going all over the place. This trick works well. I've used Formby's lemon oil as well as straight linseed oil and after watching a re-fret on YouTube am considering using Tru Oil instead.