How do u tighten the whammy bar on a JT-6? also how springs needed?

[AussieTerry84]

My whammy bar is abit rickety, loose feeling, like i can move it backwards n forwards in its slot.

Whats the best technique to use to tighten the nut under the bridge to stop this without scratching the guitar?

Also i have 3 springs connected and im in E-standard with standard tuning is this ok? I pretty much changed strings but didn't touch the springs because i dont know how to muck around with those yet.


Cheers

[toejam]

You'll probably need to replace the white plastic bushing around the arm for it to stop wobbling. Those things go after awhile. If you just want a new bar, find an Ibanez pop-in bar... they'll work just fine.
As far as springs, you can use any number of springs you want.

[straycat]

There is a small metal piece that grips the bar to give it some tension you can just take some needle nose pliers and give it a gentle squeeze.Take the rear cover plate off and you'll see what I'm talking about.

[DalyTek]

Maybe I'm misreading his post, but it sounds like he is saying he entire arm assembly where it attaches to the bridge is wobbling, not just a wobbly arm.

If the arm wobbles in the socket, follow the above techniques. If the actual socket is wobbling, there is a nut on the back that can be tightened down to the bridge from inside the cavity. Usually it will use the same Allen wrench you use for changing strings.

As for the springs, most of the time 3 is about right. You want to match the springs' tension to the strings' tension so your bridge base plate lays flush with the body. If it's leaning forward, you need to tighten the spring claw screws (or add another spring) and if it's leaning back, you need to loosen the spring claw screws (or remove a spring.)

If you change string gauge (or even change brands sometimes) it will change the tension and you will have to re-adjust the spring:string tension ratio again.

[dg]

+1 to DalyTek.

I also read it to mean that the whole socket was moving. If so, I'll add one thing specific to the JT-6: Unlike an OFR or Schaller, the baseplate is also threaded, and the socket screws down into it. There is a notch across the top of the socket that you can put a large screwdriver in to screw down on it, then you lock down with the nut on the bottom side of the trem. The best way to get at the bottom of the trem is to remove it, and you don't have to remove the strings if you don't want. Put something soft under the rear of the trem, loosen the strings, then carefully remove the trem springs. Then you can take the trem out and get at the bottom to tighten the nut. When you're done, reverse the process to put the trem back on.

If the baseplate threads are stripped and the socket is moving, it's time to remove the whole thing and put a floyd collared bar in there. It's very easy to do.

If it is a matter of worn plastic bushings on the arm, I believe the Ibanez replacement bushings for their push-in bars will fit. If not, I think Dave has them at fretsonthenet.com.

[AussieTerry84]

Just inspected it and its the whammy bar collar that is loose, previously i've just dived the bridge to get to that nut to tighten it, just wanted too see if there is a better way.

Thanks for all your help so far

[AussieTerry84]

RESSSUUURRREECCCTIIOONNNNNN

So I just started fiddling around with it to try and tighten the whammy bar from rotating loosely and i've accidently unscrewed the screw and wire inside the cavity am I going to have to take the floyd out to put this sucker back in cause its a pain in the arse atm!

What does this screw and piece of wire do? Is it what controls how tightly the whammy bar is held into the assembly?


Can I easily unscrew the socket assembly out to put it back in? Or is best bet to remove the floyd to put it back in?


My problem is that the bar feels loose and swings around which I hate i like my whammy bars to be in position tight barely moving, what shpuld I do to accomplish this? Try tighten socket or new Ibanez push in bar?

[AussieTerry84]

Ok i got the tiny screw n wire back in using a needle nose plier to hokd in em place while i screwed em back in, it appears the socket needs to be tightened to stop the bar from rotating so easily, whats the best way to attack this?

The feeling of doing work on your guitar (setup, restring, slight repairs) feels almost as good as playing! i love it!

[dg]

You'll probably have to take the trem off to get a wrench on the nut that locks the socket in place. The baseplate itself is also threaded, but the metal is very soft and prone to stripping. You need to tighten the socket into the baseplate with a large screwdriver, then lock it down with the nut on the backside. The only way I can see you being able to do this with the trem in place is with a deep socket, and I don't think there's clearance for that. It's pretty common for the threads in the baseplate to be toast, and for the wobbling to continue even if you can get the nut tight. At that point, the way to go is the floyd bar conversion.

[AussieTerry84]

Ah cheers how do i go about doing the Floyd bar conversion? Sounds like threads might be stripped its bloody old as.

Also if you could link me to what parts I need that would be fab .

[dg]

Dave at fretsonthenet.com makes a bar & socket kit that drops right in without the need to enlarge the baseplate hole. He has a pic tutorial on the site, too. Otherwise, you can get an OFR bar & socket kit from Allparts, Stewmac, or your local shop. To install that, you'll need to enlarge the hole slightly, which basically involves removing the threads from the hole. The metal is very soft and all it takes is a tapered rat tail file or a twist or two with a large flat blade screwdriver.

[AussieTerry84]

WHats the best website to buy an Orig Floyd Rose from? Might just go down that route n have a whole new one put in.

Do the springs n claw beneath get replaced with the new kit?


Also is this an Orig Floyd Rose? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,...ctures#details

[dg]

That is the Schaller Floyd Rose, also known as the Floyd Rose II. The Jackson JT-590 is basically identical, except for not having hardened inserts for the intonation screws. An OFR has longer string lock screws and it has a steel baseplate rather than a cast potmetal baseplate with knife-edge inserts. Here is the OFR:

http://www.warmoth.com/Original-Floyd-Rose-C693.aspx

Warmoth is a very good place to buy from, but since you're in Oz, I have no idea what's best for you. One of the bros from down under should know.

[AussieTerry84]

Cheers mate i'll get it from Warmoth , Aus is shit prices are jacked up like crazy! I was once quoted $500 for a OFR from a local store, hell a new DK2M is $1600 here and the RR5 series is $2,500 here!!

The OFR drops straight into the Model 6 yeah? I think I remember reading on here no alterations are needed, i'll search the forum.

[dg]

It should drop right in. Don't forget that the Model 6 takes a 42mm block.