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Attempted to install a new sustain block on San Dimas

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  • Attempted to install a new sustain block on San Dimas

    I have a recent USA Charvel San Dimas. The thing is awesome, easy to play and sounds great. I saw a video where Paul Riario A/B'ed the stock block with a new brass block and I was impressed with the results. Some of you old dogs might think it's just a placebo effect but I could hear the difference, alright. Anyway, I measured the old block, which was 37mm. I ordered a 37mm L-shape brass sustain block from FloydUpgrades.com . The block arrives, along with the stainless steel nut and block mounting screws I ordered. Needless to say the stainless screws fit perfectly. I install the block onto the bridge, no problem. I put the bridge back on the body, everything's looking pretty good. I put the springs back on and install a fresh set of strings. Right away I notice that the bridge is tilted WAY too far forward, as if it was stuck in a dive bomb. On top of that, if I pushed the bridge down further, as with normal use, the bridge would either move from side to side or just not move at all, depending on the spring tension. I tried adjusting the posts and the spring tension with no results. I show it to someone with a little more experience and it appears that there is a little block of wood getting in the way of the brass block. I look at the comments on a Floyd Upgrades youtube video and some guy said that he had to sand the cavity on his 2 USA custom san dimas guitars because he was having the same problem. I am a complete noob who knows absolutely nothing about setting up or modifying guitars, and before I have someone dig into my guitar removing all sorts of precious tonewood, I want to know what the problem could be, and maybe some solutions BESIDES PUTTING THE ORIGINAL BLOCK BACK. Trust me, this block is getting into this guitar...
    -A great man once said, "EMGs, they make a bad guitar sound good, and a great guitar sound good."
    My Rig- Charvel San Dimas Style 1
    Hands, featuring Fingers

  • #2
    Take a wood file and file the wood away in the cavity at an angle enough so that you get some clearance for it unless it's sitting flush against the cavity wall it's not too big of a deal.

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    • #3
      Wait, just to be clear, you say there is a "little wood block" in the way? Is it a block that someone installed to make it dive only? Or is it and original part of the cavity? In my head I'm seeing the trem was blocked before and now the L shaped block is sitting against the wood block that was installed. If I'm right, just remove the wood block.. Or am I confused...:think: I think we need a pic on this one..
      Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

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      • #4
        I'm reading it the same way as you are, warlok.
        My Gear: Stoneman SG-1, Hufschmid Tantalum H6, ESP KH-6, Sully #8 JCF One-Off, Templar GuitarWorks Relic Prototype, James Hetfield Tribal Hunt KL Explorer, Coobeetsa CCG-10-DX PRO Eagle, Schecter Hellraiser C-1 Hybrid, Daly Heiro Custom, Gibson Les Paul Custom, Gibson SG Menace, Peavey Vypyr 60 Tube

        "You are dog shit in my shoe." -Newc

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        • #5
          Or what Warlok suggested, sorry i thought that would be kinda obvious when you took the floyd off, but yeah.

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          • #6
            I am a huge fan of the brass big blocks from Adam at www.floydroseupgrades.com!

            I once tried an "L" big block on one of my PC1's and it basically turned it into a hardtail. I would have needed to remove a lot of wood behind the trem arm collar to really make it work. I emailed Adam and swapped it for a standard big block which fits and functions perfectly.

            See attached picture...


            Last edited by vklobucar; 03-02-2011, 06:01 AM.

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            • #7
              They should warn you with the L block that you may have to route it. You can see in the pic on their site someone has butchered the route with a chisel.

              Hacksaw part of the extra piece of, or cut the guitar body with a router or dremel or whatever, you need to clear up the interference somehow.

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              • #8
                I don't think the small amount of extra mass the L block has over the standard one is worth the potential headache.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Chad View Post
                  I don't think the small amount of extra mass the L block has over the standard one is worth the potential headache.
                  ^^^ this
                  _________________________________________________
                  "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                  - Ken M

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                  • #10
                    I would just have at the cavity with a chisel or a dremel. It should be pretty obvious where its hanging up. And nothing adds tone like removing wood - just ask Gibson.

                    Also - you should check eBay for the old fatheads brass headstock overlay and add some other chunks of brass to your guitar in odd places - I like the old Ibanez practice of bolting the brass on as decoration behind the bridge = sustain!

                    I like to stuff a sock in my pants. It makes me feel like I've got a Big Jim Slade style big 'ol chunk of thrill sustaining love muscle down there.



                    All in fun - of course - go with what works for you!
                    -------------------------
                    Blank yo!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Grandturk View Post
                      I would just have at the cavity with a chisel or a dremel. It should be pretty obvious where its hanging up. And nothing adds tone like removing wood - just ask Gibson.
                      Especially at the neck joint... Glue = tone!

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                      • #12
                        Ive got 4 L blocks from adam on 4 guitars all with dive only floyd roses.
                        Charvel demartini
                        2005 sd reissue
                        2005 sd reissue
                        Wayne rock legend.

                        The L blocks fit perfect on both the demartini and rock legend, i had to file away a ton of wood for both sd reissues
                        This space for rent

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                        • #13
                          I talked to a good friend of mine with a little more experience than me. Apparently, the "block" (which I forgot to mention is part of the original cavity) is there to keep the bridge from floating. I'll probably just sand away the block little by little until the block can fit properly. However, I can't afford to mess this up, with my luck I'll manage to screw it up, and since I'm a student, I can't really afford any extensive repairs. I'll probably have someone else do the job, I'm sure it won't cost much.
                          -A great man once said, "EMGs, they make a bad guitar sound good, and a great guitar sound good."
                          My Rig- Charvel San Dimas Style 1
                          Hands, featuring Fingers

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                          • #14
                            Just drop Adam an email and just get the regular brass block. I don't think that extra hunk of brass (the L) is going to make that much difference. Personally I'd rather have the wood in there!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MarkTheMuscleShark View Post
                              I talked to a good friend of mine with a little more experience than me. Apparently, the "block" (which I forgot to mention is part of the original cavity) is there to keep the bridge from floating. I'll probably just sand away the block little by little until the block can fit properly. However, I can't afford to mess this up, with my luck I'll manage to screw it up, and since I'm a student, I can't really afford any extensive repairs. I'll probably have someone else do the job, I'm sure it won't cost much.
                              The block is probably glued in, if it is installed to make the tremolo not float. If so you may be able to get a razor blade between the body and the block and pop it loose. It may take some finish with it, but it's in the tremolo cavity, so who cares. :dunno:

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