EMG81 Clipping?

[Twitch]

I agree with the cold solder joint theory, look at all that resin there that didnt get burned off, and the solder joint should have a uniform surface. That joint looks like welding slag that got dropped in water, its not uniform at all, which also leads me to believe its a cold solder joint. Id definitely rewire it from scratch with new pots unless you have a solder sucker.

[Nimitz]

After some Tube watching and other googlies I found out that EMG is not supposed to be grounded to the strings well it was... sniped that ground and wammo nice smooth clear sustain... got bridge parts for my schaller from stewmac today... I am fucking happy as a clam... it sounds Great!!!



Thanks guys for all your help I Love this Forum!!!

[Musician78]

Sweet!! I am glad you got that solved! Nothing is more irritating than a guitar issue that you can't seem to figure out.

[Nimitz]

Yeah man I am friggin pumped... something as minute as a ground wire effected my axe for so many years ugh... the singles are still messed up but I got a 250k pot in the mail... not going to mess with the wiring for a while just going to rock that EMG81!!!

[Nimitz]

Here is a new video with the stings in the saddles correctly and intonation set with new saddles screws and the strings no longer grounded... I swear now that the guitar sounds better it even looks better...

But still not up to its full potential... Frets, wiring, setup...

[Nimitz]

..................

[Newc]

Nope.



1. Release the tension from the strings until they're completely slack.
2. Take the strings out of the saddles.
3. Release the tension from the springs in the back of the tremolo cavity by unscrewing the screws holding the claw (no need to unscrew them all the way)
4. Take off the springs while taking care not to let the bridge fall out the other side.
5. Take the bridge off the posts carefully.

For the Floyd, once you have loosened and removed the strings,
As far as the other questions, I have no idea.

When I loosen the strings to take out the Floyd, I always start with the high E string and work my way to the low E.
I don't know if it's necessary or not, but my brain tells me that when strings are loosened, tension will increase on the remaining strings.
I start with the thinner strings as they seem more likely to break under this increased tension.

Again, this philosophy may just be all in my head, but it's the way I do it...

Seriously fellas?

Step 1: Lay the guitar in your lap, strings down, bar swung behind the trem towards the rear strap pin.
Step 2: Pull the trem all the way back (like you're doing a pullup on the trem).
Step 3: Remove the springs carefully (they'll fly if you're not careful).
Step 4: Turn the guitar over and lift the trem out of the cavity.

Go in reverse when you're done with your work - put the trem in first (strings straight, not twisted, as will happen), seated on the pivot posts, bar in pullup mode again, and put the springs back on. BAM! You're done, and your strings are still in tune, and your neck isn't in danger of warping/twisting/Armageddon.


There it is. No need to loosen the strings, no worries of killing the posts or knife edges, and most of all you're not dicking with the spring claw (since that will be an issue when you restring and retune).

[Devotee]

Uh... Yeah, seriously. With your method, you'd have to do some crazy pull-ups to get the springs that loose.
How exactly would the neck be in danger of warping/twisting and what reason would there be to worry about the posts or knife edges?

[DalyTek]

I have never tried Newc's method, but it seems to me that if you do not loosen the string tension, the strings are going to be pulling up on the Floyd still, pulling it into the grooves on the posts which would prevent you from just lifting the trem out of the cavity.

I do not mess with the claw unless I'm changing string sauge and have to re-float the Floyd so it sits level though...

[Newc]

It was mentioned earlier (and has been mentioned for years) that loosening the strings one at a time will warp the neck. Never seen any evidence of it, as the neck stiffness is greater than the string's tension, but not so great as to warp/twist/bend as soon as the strings go slack. That's what that was in response to.

And removing the strings is often cited as a way to keep the knife edges form grinding into the pivot posts, which simply does not happen to begin with. It takes a long time to wear down either the post or the edges, and a lot of wear/use.

As long as you haven't cranked the claw fully against the back wall, it's not going to take a "crazy pullup" to get the springs off. You're not getting them so loose as to fall out - but enough so that you can pull them off yourself. You'll have to pull the spring towards the anchor point (claw or block) but it's easily done.
You're keeping tension on the strings by bending the bar back with more strength than the forward pull of the strings or the back pull of the springs alone.

As long as the trem is recessed, or the slot is routed wide/long enough, you should be able to lift the stringed trem out with no problem, and put it back in with no problem. Only guitar that ever gave me trouble with that method was the non-recessed Charvel ProMods.

[Nimitz]

Thanks Newc it came off pretty easy... Really not hard to do at all.

[rdamaral]

Ugh, that wiring is a mess. I know, Captain Obvious reporting for duty. If it were my guitar, I'd rip it all out and start over with new stuff. In my opinion, it would be a nightmare trying to troubleshoot that mess.

Regarding the strings/saddles, follow your thought here. The wound part should not be in the saddle.

I guess I'm a noob too, cuz that's how I install my strings too, lol. What's the proper method then?

[toejam]

Regarding the strings/saddles, follow your thought here. The wound part should not be in the saddle.

How else are you going to put wound strings in the saddle? :think: