Stringing With Lower Gauge

[Rowan]

I had Ernie Ball 12's on my Jackson RR24 Floyd Rose guitar and had it setup to play in Drop C mainly.

I bought a set of Ernie Ball 10's a couple of days ago and after stringing it up I had a floating bridge, I tried playing around with the back and it didn't feel like it was making any different till the point where I snapped the strings !!!

Anyway.... I have ordered a new set of 10's which are coming tomorrow and I have my guitar sitting there all cleaned up and with no strings on it.

Can someone please advise me on:

1) How many springs should I put in the back and what pattern?
2) How much gap should the screws on the back be for a starting position?
3) A guide on stringing up a lower gauge set on a guitar which was set for thicker strings and also has none on it to start with (I did hear about sticking something under the bridge to keep it level will that work?)


All help is appreciated,

Thanks and sorry for the huge post I wanted to make sure I cover enough details

Rowan

[Musician78]

I am not 100% sure what happened. What I would do is this:

Change all the strings but do not tune. lower gauge will have less tension, so I would add a spring or two. I usually have four back there. Then I would gradually tighten the strings. Pay close attention to where the bridge sits. If you get it to tune and the bridge is too high, see if the two screws in the back (the ones that attach the spring plate thing to the guitar) can go in any further, or add another spring. If it is too low, then unscrew the two screws a bit or remove a spring. As I said, mine all have 4, so it can be done. The entire process can be a pain in the rear, but patience will get you through. You may have to lower the bridge. Don't forget, you will have to intonate after. Make this your last step.

Some people may take different approaches, but that is what I would do.

Also, before adding or removing springs, or adjusting the screws, de tune a bit first.

[Rowan]

Thanks for the reply,

Ok so when I get it tomorrow ill put all the strings on but only tighten them enough that they are not falling off, but not to tune, and check the bridge.

Is it worth doing that thing where you put something under the bridge to stop it dipping? (but then again that wouldn't solve anything if the bridge was to start floating)

[Musician78]

Check the bridge as you tune.

I never put anything beneath it. I have changed gauges and tunings lots of times and my method works great for me. As I said, do not rush anything.

[Nightbat]

If I restring a 'clean' (as in no strings on it) guitar with floyd with a different gauge, I do put something under the bridge
but only so high, that it still leans back a little

After I string up all six and the start tuning
when the guitar is in tune and the floyd doesn't float or is still to far back, I loosen the springclaw
if it comes up too high during tuning, I can tighten the springclaw

Stringing up 10's, I never had to use more than 3 springs

[j2379]

here a quick trick,
wedge something under the floyd as a block in the spring cavity is fine.
make sure the springs are tight enough so under STRING tension the bridge wont pull up. just make sure the bridge is level.
tune the guitar
slowly back out the screws to the spring claw
when the wedge is pretty loose remove it, it should almost fall out by itself.
tune by adjusting the spring tension w the claw so its pretty close to in tune
If done right its not far off. fine tune & you got a perfectly floating floyd that should zero out.

[Rowan]

Ok thanks alot so far guys....

I managed to get my strings on, and its in Drop D tuning and the bridge seems nice and level

Now only thing I need to know is innotation.... the way my guitar is just now:

1) The strings aren't extremely high but I would like them lowered down a little
2) When I pick the high E string the tuner shows perfect tuning, but when I play the 12th fret on that string it shows it to be a little higher, and same on the 6th string but alot higher pitch on tuner


How do I go around making sure the rest of the guitar is set up perfectly

[Newc]

If the note fretted at the 12th fret is sharp, adjust the saddle father away from the nut. If the note is flat, move the saddle toward the nut.

And you should be able to lower the entire bridge by way of the two pivot posts.

[Rowan]

Ok ill get onto that


Also when I put my locking nuts in before the 1st and 2nd string seemed to not be "locked". For instance, in my 5th and 6th string, with the locking nut in when I turn the tuning peg it doesnt really move... but with the 1st, 2nd, and possibly 3rd string, when I turn the tuning peg it moves as if its not even there.

How can I make sure the locking nuts are holding the strings in tune so I can whammy away and not worry about it going madly out of tune?

And should I detune it down before putting locking nuts on?

[Newc]

Get your tuning set before locking it down.

As for the locks seeming to slip, they may have grooves in them from the larger strings, or the locks may simply not be going all the way down (replacement locks are sometimes larger than the original nut).
It could also be that the nut itself is worn in those places.

[Animus]

I am not 100% sure what happened. What I would do is this:

Change all the strings but do not tune. lower gauge will have less tension, so I would add a spring or two. I usually have four back there. \.

Actually you need less springs for less tension/lighter gauge strings.

[jakse]

Actually you need less springs for less tension/lighter gauge strings.

+1 isn't it: 10/11's = 3, 11 or higher = 4 springs

[Musician78]

Actually you need less springs for less tension/lighter gauge strings.

Yes, not sure how I misworded that.