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Okay, here it comes: Jackson sl1 90' -intonation etc

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  • #1

    Okay, here it comes: Jackson sl1 90' -intonation etc

    Hi jcf! Im new on This site and new with my jackson. well i changed the strings and im not 100pro cent sure that i have intonated it right (the spring vs. String tension thingy) because; i hear an annoying fret buzz on the 1. Fret. And the high e string sometimes get cought under the fret. But That problem was also before the restringin. Im tuned in c# 1 1/2 step All the way, dont know if that has an influence. When i divebomb or just use the whammy alot, the high e pitches lower whilst tje other strings stays in perf tune. This is on iPhone and im from DK. Hope its readable. THANKS
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  • #2
    Intonation is something other than the issue you described, but your intonation could be off as well.

    The Bridge should be horizontal if you've adjusted the springs in the back to match the tension of your string. Use the screws in the claw to make adjustments or add/remove springs.

    Post some pictures as well.

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    • #3
      okay i will do that. but i can see that the bridge is horizontal. maybe it still needs a krank on the back.

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      • #4
        DonP (or any other) i discovered that when i release the to screws (so the bridge are bending away from the body a little bit) the fre buzz are completely gone, but then the birdge isn't in its right position.
        what to do?

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        • #5
          Raise the bridge...

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          • #6
            Regarding the string getting caught under the fret, that can happen if the frets stick out beyond the fretboard. Get somebody to file the fret ends for you (or do it yourself if you dare/can).

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            • #7
              Originally posted by javert View Post
              Raise the bridge...
              +1
              If the buzz went away when you loosened the claw screws, your action (the distance between the frets and the strings) is too low.
              You just need to raise a little by loosening the 2 screws in front of the bridge (the posts that the bridge pivots on.)
              Make sure you screw those claw screws back in so the bridge is parallel to the body again before you raise the bridge.
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              • #8
                Originally posted by DalyTek View Post
                +1
                If the buzz went away when you loosened the claw screws, your action (the distance between the frets and the strings) is too low.
                You just need to raise a little by loosening the 2 screws in front of the bridge (the posts that the bridge pivots on.)
                Make sure you screw those claw screws back in so the bridge is parallel to the body again before you raise the bridge.
                +1 and post pics BTW that helps a lot in fixing small issues you may have.
                Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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                • #9
                  ill do it soon as possible. yeah im getting i heart attack about all these different combinations that can ruin my guitar :b

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                  • #10
                    Just take your time and to be clear: as dalytek said loosen the strings before raising the bridge with the screws. I have never had the problem but supposedly you can dull the knife edges on the trem if you don't.

                    Stick a pinky eraser or something under the bridge when you take the string tension down to keep the bridge from tilting back into the body.


                    As an aside.... Has anyone actually had that happen to them? I could see it with unhardened knife edges but would it really do that sort of damage to an OFR?

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                    • #11
                      How do i know how much i need to raise the bridge? Should i take it to a luthier or is it too simply to bother a luthier with that pity?

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                      • #12
                        photos:







                        hope it shows i little

                        edit: the orange/rust looking colour is basically just the auto-focus light

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                        • #13
                          Simple to do.

                          First. Push down on the trem bar so that the trem tips forward (like you are dive bombing). Get something firm but not hard and wedge it between the bridge (trem) so that when you loosen the strings it won't gouge into the body from the spring tension. Then, unlock your locking nut at the top of the neck and loosen the strings so they're like spagetti.

                          Once you have relieved the tension on the strings, I would SUGGEST that you remove the springs from the claw. The claw is the piece in your second picture to the left. Unhook them. If they come out of the other side, no big deal.

                          The bridge (trem) should now be free, although attached to strings. Carefully move it out of the way. Make sure it won't fall on the guitar body if you accidentally whack the still-attached strings.

                          Now. You have 2 screws that the bridge pivots on. They are too low. Adjust them UPWARD with an allen wrench (hex wrench). Don't go crazy, but give it maybe....one full turn? Hard to judge. You will be turning LEFT. You are trying to get the screws to move UP, which will make the bridge (trem) higher when you put it back on.

                          Now basically do what you did before in reverse....take the bridge, put it on the pivots (make SURE it is sitting in the pivots before you tighten anything). Then put your firm-but-but soft thing between the bridge and the guitar body and re-attach the springs.

                          Tighten the guitar strings until the bridge starts to float. Remove the hard-yet-soft thing. Tune to pitch and play for a bit and see if that helped.

                          I also suggest that WHILE YOU HAVE THE BRIDGE OFF you throw it in a bowl of wd-40 and let it sit over night....then hit it with a tooth brush and get that rust off! You rarely are going to take the trem off so now is a good time to take the chance to clean her up.

                          If you don't want to bother with all that, you can just take your allen wrench and crank it left on each screw. That will raise the bridge. But I HAVE BEEN TOLD but have never experienced (because I do it the way I described earlier) that doing that with the bridge under tension can DULL the knife edges and make the trem not float back to pitch so easily. Thinking about it I don't know that I believe that good stainless steel would dull from one turn of a screw, but there is pretty good tension there, so do what ya want but be aware you might end up needing to get a new Floyd baseplate (but you know what? I doubt it.....wait for someone else's opinion because I don't want to screw up your bridge but if you just turn it once my guess is it will be fine)....

                          But you should do it the right way because it will help you learn how to service your guitar & how it all works together.
                          Last edited by Vass; 05-22-2011, 03:59 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Sup?

                            What Vass says..

                            Also,, while you have the trem off, check those Pivot screws to see if they move within the threads,,like , do they wiggle? If so you can take the screw out and wrap a little Teflon plumbers tape around them and put them back in and that will tighten them up, cause that can also be a source of tuning instability and often overlooked.

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                            DAVE
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                            • #15
                              Vass! You're the f***** man! Thanks alot!
                              i will defianetly do that!
                              2 questions:
                              i can imagine that the wd-40 will get into the intonation screws, could that course the saddle to slip in one sort of way?

                              when i have done the bridge, how do i then know that the truss-rod is perfect settled?

                              thanks vas

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