JT-6 problems and general consesus

[scotty]

http://www.fretsonthenet.com/ImCharv.htm

[DonP]

And I would say it's a user error. People don't need to crank the allen key around until the string is as flat as a sheet of aluminum foil!

I am in the +LIKE category for JT6.

I have two, and I have two MIG OFR's ready to go in at a moments notice. I think the OFR's will be waiting a long time.

[beardy]

My take on the JT-6 - design is nice, but the material used is a little thin. vklobucar is right, Floyd was rather patent-retentive® at that time, especially given the nature of his agreement with Kramer. It would only seem logical for Jackson to later replace JT-6 with JT-590, given that it's simply a rebadged Floyd at half the price (made at the same factory in Postbauer, Bavaria, all by the very same firm as always, Schaller Elektronik GmbH). Patt is absolutely right regarding the snap-in arms - the screw-on type is a lot easier to deal with. After-the-nut locking nuts are not my cup of tea, whether intended for Kahler or JT-6 systems - just whip on the proper Floyd nut and be happy, especially given that you can have a top mount without drilling the holes in the back of the neck these days! In my books, a Floyd trem has to be either MIG OFR or Schaller made (i.e. JT-590 (what a great trem!!!) for Jacksons/Charvels, Gibson (got one on my '89 Explorer 90 Double) branded Schaller and so on). I do like the Kahler Spyder, Killer is OK, never dealt with Traditional. OFR Pro is a fun little system, got it on a couple of guitars - BUT it's a little pricey, that's all.

[moku]

everyone talks about the better design of the jt-6, that the fine tuners don't get in the way, but i never thought the fine tuners on a floyd got in my way when i play anyway... :think: so i never saw the point of the "better" design factor. so since that has not a selling point for me, i never really cared for the jt-6, especially with the cheaper metal and stripping screws. it's just a lower quality trem than a floyd (imho).

[mrthrash]

I finally got a chance yesterday to having a go at fixing this problem. So I cut a slot with a hacksaw in the end of the bolt so now I can tighten it properly with a screwdriver. But then when I tried to put on the string it popped out again before I got it up to pitch. So then I had a look again and took out the square clamp block. I noticed underneath that was oiled and I presume that was probably causing the string to slip out. A guitar tech guy had the guitar a couple of weeks ago to file the frets a bit and he changed the strings and cleaned the neck while he was at it and I presume he must have decided to oil up the bridge as well. I'm presuming that part's not meant to be oiled, is it? So anyway I cleaned the oil off there as much as I could and tried to put a string on again and it worked. I got the string up to pitch and everything seemed okay. Then today I got a chance to play it and after about half an hour the string slipped out again. Does anyone have an idea what I can do about this? Is it because of the oil or is there something else worn out in the bridge that's causing the problem? Also I assume the blocks for the other strings have been oiled too but they haven't given any problems.

[Hellbat]

I worked around this by using fine tip needlenose pliers to put a small loop at the bottom of the string, making it a little thicker at the loop point.

[Axewielder]

I finally got a chance yesterday to having a go at fixing this problem. So I cut a slot with a hacksaw in the end of the bolt so now I can tighten it properly with a screwdriver. But then when I tried to put on the string it popped out again before I got it up to pitch. So then I had a look again and took out the square clamp block. I noticed underneath that was oiled and I presume that was probably causing the string to slip out. A guitar tech guy had the guitar a couple of weeks ago to file the frets a bit and he changed the strings and cleaned the neck while he was at it and I presume he must have decided to oil up the bridge as well. I'm presuming that part's not meant to be oiled, is it? So anyway I cleaned the oil off there as much as I could and tried to put a string on again and it worked. I got the string up to pitch and everything seemed okay. Then today I got a chance to play it and after about half an hour the string slipped out again. Does anyone have an idea what I can do about this? Is it because of the oil or is there something else worn out in the bridge that's causing the problem? Also I assume the blocks for the other strings have been oiled too but they haven't given any problems.

I assume this is the high E? Some of those saddles just get a bit worn and loosey goosey. This probably explains why the bolt got stripped in the first place (overtightening to try to compensate). Try swapping that saddle with the low E saddle.

[mrthrash]

I worked around this by using fine tip needlenose pliers to put a small loop at the bottom of the string, making it a little thicker at the loop point.

Yea, that seems like a good solution but I wasn't sure exactly what you meant. Did you pull the loop tight to make a little knot or was it a loose loop? And so then you just stuck this loop in where you normally put the string and clamp it down?

I assume this is the high E? Some of those saddles just get a bit worn and loosey goosey. This probably explains why the bolt got stripped in the first place (overtightening to try to compensate). Try swapping that saddle with the low E saddle.

Actually its the G string. I thought of trying that but I wasn't sure if the different saddles were interchangeable or not. I'm guessing that the 6 saddles are arranged to form an arch which should mean there are three pairs of saddles with the same height. So if that's right the G and D should be the same. Is that right?

[Hellbat]

I would basically fold the string over itself, kind of bend it in a tight v and make sure it's crossing iteself near the bottom of the v and clamp down on that. I did the with the high E which would be easier than the G of course. With the JT6 all the saddles are interchangable as they are all the same size, the baseplate itself is stepped, so you can swap any of them.

[Shawn Lutz]

drop an OFR in on the same studs and be done with it. It is what I did on my bound Jackson

[vklobucar]

Ahmen!

[mrthrash]

The cost is the main reason I won't be putting an OFR in. But out of curiosity did it fit in fine for you guys? I read on audiozone that it could involve a bit of work on the wood to get it to fit.

Since my last post I tried swapping the saddles but in the end the problem seems to be that i just wasn't turning the bolt tight enough with the screwdriver (I was using quite a small one that was difficult to get a grip with. So I got a better fitting screwdriver and improved the slots in the bolt earlier today and its working fine so far.

I think I might order the replacement screws from frets on the net just to have some spares for the future.

And thanks again for all the help and suggestions. Its great to hear from people who really know their stuff!

[Axewielder]

The cost is the main reason I won't be putting an OFR in. But out of curiosity did it fit in fine for you guys? I read on audiozone that it could involve a bit of work on the wood to get it to fit.

Since my last post I tried swapping the saddles but in the end the problem seems to be that i just wasn't turning the bolt tight enough with the screwdriver (I was using quite a small one that was difficult to get a grip with. So I got a better fitting screwdriver and improved the slots in the bolt earlier today and its working fine so far.

I think I might order the replacement screws from frets on the net just to have some spares for the future.

And thanks again for all the help and suggestions. Its great to hear from people who really know their stuff!

I'd say the OFR can be dropped in 90% of the time. Sometimes, the bushing for the arm will rub on the side of the trem route. You can either modify the trem route or put the JT6 back on.

[maluco]

I find that as long as mine is properly oiled it works a dime.

Biggest issue on both my Mod 2 & 4 was the behind the nut lock, but I tink the nut was causing prblems, after "lubing" the nut with graphite dust, no more tuning issues on either guit. I cant complain about theJT6