Which Floyd locking Nut goes on a Model 6?

[kmanick]

is it an R2 or an R3?
I want to order one for my latest Model 6 acquisition, I hate the 'Kahler' style locking nut these things came with but I forgot wich one of these is the right one for this model?

[MetalMedal II]

Not sure about the Model 6, but my 650XL has an R4 nut, which I think's a 1-11/16".

[dg]

I'd go R3. Both R3 & R4 are 1 11/16", but R3 has slightly narrower spacing, and is recommended for a bound neck.

[kmanick]

so what's R2? is that for 1 5/8ths?

[MetalMedal II]

so what's R2? is that for 1 5/8ths?

Looks like it. Here's a link of em all:

http://www.floydrose.com/pdf/FloydRoseNutSpecs_1-10.pdf

[kmanick]

I didn't know there was an R9 LOL
looks like the R2 is radius for a 10" and the R3 for a 12".
the Model 6 is 12-16 isn't it?
looks like the R3 it is then (unless I'm wrong here)

[straycat]

R4 for bound necks R3 non bound necks.
Nothing wrong with the Kahler style string lock but if you have to put a floyd shelf on it go at it just be careful.

[dg]

I think it's R3 for bound, because you lose some of the width of the fretboard to the binding. Never seen it written down as an official rule anywhere, but it seems to be the consensus on most forums:

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=pfwc&cp=19&gs_id=22&xhr=t&q=r3+or+r4+bound+neck&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&source=hp&pbx=1&oq=r3+or+r4+bound+neck&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=fc1f175dc4ba964c&biw=1280&bih=874

I prefer R3 to R4 on everything regardless, because I don't like the strings too close to the edges, and I don't miss the extra few thousandths between the strings. ymmv, of course.

[kmanick]

I think I'll go with the R3.
The Kahler lock nut seems to work Ok, but when I was doing my string change I unscrewed the middle srew all the way out and the bottom plate fell off. I had to take the trus rod cover and get a little allen wrench and work it back out an up so I could reconnect it.
Like I want to go that that fucking ordeal again????? It took me almost 20 minutes. Right there I decided that thing has got to go. I'll have Steve Morrill
put it on for me *great tech in Boston)

[MetalMedal II]

I'll have Steve Morrill
put it on for me *great tech in Boston)

Cool, I had Steve work on my home made explorer when I lived in Boston. Does he still work out of EU Wurlitzer on Mass Ave across from Daddy's? I thought maybe that place closed down, but may have reopened. There is another real good luthier on Mass Ave in Cambridge...his name escapes me right now, but he was real cool too.

And for the record, I prefer the wider string spacing of an R4 compared to an R3. I'm pretty sure it was stock on my 650XL, and I don't have any issues with the strings being too close to the fretboard.

[kmanick]

Jim Mouradian is probably the other guy you're thinking of.
He used to do all of my work for my but he moved to Winchester and he's always
really backed up , amazing luthier though, I trust him entirely to do any knind of work at all.
Steve has moved across the Street from Berkeley.
He's the man!
Chuck E. turned me onto him about 2 years ago and now no one touches my guitars but Steve.
he's done some great stuff for me , is always accessible and is really quick as compared to guys like Mouradian or Wolf Ginandes (who is also very good)
I would say those are the top 3 in Boston.
Oh and on top of how good he is, Steve is also a really really nice guy, that never hurts.

[MetalMedal II]

Yeah, Jim's the one.