Neck Finishing Questions

[SausageofPower]

So, I took the neck from my Model 4 and worked to remove some of the stickiness. I gave the whole neck a once over, minus the fretboard of course, and noticed some parts are "blonder" than others mainly in the headstock area. My initial impression is that the clear came off in these areas, so I'm debating just sanding her down and refinishing with Tru-Oil. However, I figured I'd ask here and see what people thought. This guitar has become more of a project, not so much a mint piece, so no worries about suggestions. It's a learning experience.

Anyway, I guess my questions are:

-How can I be certain that I haven't broken through the clear down to wood? I used 0000 steel wool, 1500 grit and 2000 grit, so I'd be surprised but shit happens.

-If I do strip and refinish the neck, how should I do it? Sand the back and sides with 220 grit and work my way up, then do the finishing?

Thanks.

Edit: Any experience with Danish Oil? I'm reading mostly good things about it.

[sully]

-How can I be certain that I haven't broken through the clear down to wood? I used 0000 steel wool, 1500 grit and 2000 grit, so I'd be surprised but shit happens.

If you're seeing color changes, you broke through something.

-If I do strip and refinish the neck, how should I do it? Sand the back and sides with 220 grit and work my way up, then do the finishing?

You could use a scraper, which would probably be the fastest way. Or you could sand it, but then you run the risk of changing the neck profile by oversanding in some areas. Once you get to bare wood, sand up to 320 - 400 and you're good.

Any experience with Danish Oil? I'm reading mostly good things about it.

Yep. Works just fine. Gunstock oil is awesome as well.

[SausageofPower]

So hit it with a heat gun and a scraper versus using sandpaper, then sand and prep? Thanks Sully!

[sully]

I wouldn't take a heat gun to a neck, dude. That's asking for trouble. Use a sharp cabinet scraper.

[SausageofPower]

Alright, that's why I asked. I was concerned there for a second, but I figured I would defer to the expert in case there was something I wasn't thinking of. :P

Awesome. So I'll scrape the old stuff off tonight, sand tomorrow, and start the finishing process on Thursday.

[cullenszoo]

To answer your first queston,
If you take a soaking wet wash cloth and wipe it all over the back of the neck, wait until it air drys and then feel the surface. If you find patches that feel a little rough than you have hit wood.
As for refinishing:
while sand paper is the slowest method its a lot safer unless you're experienced with a scraper.
As long as you use long strokes on the playing area you won't really change the contour.
After you have it sanded and your to about 1000 grit, wet the surface of the wood again. this will cause little whiskers to swell and pop up. sand again, and wet again. do this till there are no whiskers.
I fund a MINWAX spray polyurithane at wal-mart that works really well and cures nice and hard. (I was worried it might get gummy but it didn't)

[SausageofPower]

Thanks for the advice, both of you. I ended up going with the paint scraper and it worked wonders. I've got most of the clear coat off, and I intend to take it slow and remove the rest and sand it over the next day or two. After that, I picked up some danish oil to refinish her and we should be good to go.

[j2379]

if your going to put water on bare wood becareful, it may crack. also danish/gun stock oil on an old rag will spontaneously combust. I also use danish oil on necks and fretboards, works great, never had any issues. i also find scotch brite pads a lot easier than steel wool, mainly because of the prep and clean up. metal dust is hell, especially on pickups

[cullenszoo]

Yes, by all means dont over do the water. it's just dampening the surfice to get those fine little grains to swell up for sanding. If you don't, when you put any kind of oil or varnish on it those little grains will pop up and you'll have to smooth it down again.