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Keep the Jackson locking nut when changing to an OFR?

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  • Keep the Jackson locking nut when changing to an OFR?

    It seems like leaving the nut and just changing out the trem would be sufficient. I've been seeing that the nut shelf needs to be altered in order to use the OFR nut. Is there any reason why you can't just use the OEM locking nut when changing from the JT580 to an OFR?

  • #2
    I put an OFR on my KVX10 and had to keep the Jackson nut in place because the OFR nut had a thicker base and made the action too high. I don't know if all OFR nuts are like this, or if I just got the wrong size. Maybe the R3 would have fit better than the R4 that came with the one I bought??? :think:

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    • #3
      I always wondered if it would be possible to just screw down a floyd nut after the regular nut, in place of the string lock. It might look a little strange but im thinking it might work out if mounted backwards, low end toward the nut.

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      • #4
        I always leave the stock nut on the guitar when doing an LFR to OFR trem swap.
        The only time I will change it is if there is a hardware color change or the stock one is worn out.

        A stock JT-580 nut has a thinner base thickness than a Floyd nut.
        You will have to modify the shelf unless you want your strings to sit another 1/16" higher off the fret board. Flipping it around will not fix the problem.
        -Rick

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
          I always leave the stock nut on the guitar when doing an LFR to OFR trem swap.
          The only time I will change it is if there is a hardware color change or the stock one is worn out.

          A stock JT-580 nut has a thinner base thickness than a Floyd nut.
          You will have to modify the shelf unless you want your strings to sit another 1/16" higher off the fret board. Flipping it around will not fix the problem.
          Thanks. I'll do that then. But one more question: Will the three locking pieces from the OFR kit work on the LFR nut? I'm thinking the metal is better because I have absolutely zero creaking from the nut from my Charvels with the Korean OFR, but on all my Jacksons there is creaking from the nut?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by gerryl98 View Post
            Thanks. I'll do that then. But one more question: Will the three locking pieces from the OFR kit work on the LFR nut? I'm thinking the metal is better because I have absolutely zero creaking from the nut from my Charvels with the Korean OFR, but on all my Jacksons there is creaking from the nut?
            They might. Double check the radius on the string locks and see if they match the lock nut base.
            Remember... they're not flat on the bottom.
            -Rick

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            • #7
              Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
              They might. Double check the radius on the string locks and see if they match the lock nut base.
              Remember... they're not flat on the bottom.
              i'm such dope. I should just try it since i have a Charvel and a Jackson, duh!!!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Carbuff View Post
                I always wondered if it would be possible to just screw down a floyd nut after the regular nut, in place of the string lock. It might look a little strange but im thinking it might work out if mounted backwards, low end toward the nut.
                You're thinking Kahler-style? Might work.
                I want to depart this world the same way I arrived; screaming and covered in someone else's blood

                The most human thing we can do is comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable.

                My Blog: http://newcenstein.com

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Newc View Post
                  You're thinking Kahler-style? Might work.
                  Yes, in place of the kahler lock with the regular nut intact.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Metal Spawn View Post
                    I put an OFR on my KVX10 and had to keep the Jackson nut in place because the OFR nut had a thicker base and made the action too high. I don't know if all OFR nuts are like this, or if I just got the wrong size. Maybe the R3 would have fit better than the R4 that came with the one I bought??? :think:
                    Just ran into this same instance with a USA ProMod and ended up putting a chrome one that came off of another Promod because as you say it was taller and also didn't sit in the middle of the neck quite right. I need an R3 and the German nut was an R3 alright, just not a good match.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by gerryl98 View Post
                      Thanks. I'll do that then. But one more question: Will the three locking pieces from the OFR kit work on the LFR nut? I'm thinking the metal is better because I have absolutely zero creaking from the nut from my Charvels with the Korean OFR, but on all my Jacksons there is creaking from the nut?
                      If the nut is creaking, the two screws that secure it need to be tightened.
                      I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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