Originally posted by DalyTek
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Ebonizing: Steel wool & vinegar method
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Just to clarify, I don't have anything at all against a nice rosewood board! Actually it's the other way around!
However, when it comes an all black guitar, that will be used for playing Death Metal, I really prefer the look of an ebony fretboard. It just blends in more nicely with the overall look IMO!
I would never do this to my sunburst Fusion for example though... because it looks really nice with a chocolate brown rosewood board!
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Originally posted by Anders View PostThanks for the tip xeno! What is MEK?
When I started this thread, I had actually already given up on the steel wool & vinegar, and ordered a bottle of Fiebing's Leather Dye.
I've just applied it to my new KV4. I figured it would be a good candidate, since it lacks binding. So far, I'm really liking it! I've given it a couple of coats, letting it sit for some time (the fretboard was really thirsty), wiped it down with a cloth, and went over the inlays with a cotton bud soaked in naphtha.
I'm gonna let the fretboard sit for the rest of the day, then give it some mineral oil, and wipe down the back of the neck with naphtha to get rid of any excess run. I didn't tape off the back of the neck since I can't imagine the dye doing any harm to a black, clear coated surface..?
Yeah, well the leather dye results, often would look amazing, but there are quite a few reports of it not taking on some boards and rubbing off and sticking everywhere else unless you seal it. I've never tried it, but the amount of people that seem to report having issues with it was large enough for me to stay away.
And yeah, from what I understand, it's pointless to use tape with it, just use a q-tip. And if the back of the neck is painted black, yeah, you don't have to worry. It should come out fine.
Originally posted by Anders View PostHowever, when it comes an all black guitar, that will be used for playing Death Metal, I really prefer the look of an ebony fretboard. It just blends in more nicely with the overall look IMO!oard!The 2nd Amendment: America's Original Homeland Defense.
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I'll have a look and see if I still have the photos! I hope you have better luck with it than I did, it really didn't work at all. It worked great on a test piece of oak though!
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I expected it would work on oak.
I've worked in forestry/lumber for almost 30 years and I've often seen oak turn black when metal (shovels etc.) is left touching it for a period of time.96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.
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Tried to edit the original post, but it would no longer allow me to include two videos in the post... So instead of making a nice tidy post I'll just do this instead:
Ebonizing solution:
Before:
After:
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Here was my mostly-failed attempt using the Minwax ebony pen method. http://www.jcfonline.com/threads/150...ight=ebonizing
Just for information, documenting an unsuccessful experiment, many years after I originally tried the steel wool & vinegar method.
Before I tackled it, I researched extensively on the internet for the best procedure that was non-messy and permanent, including the ever-trustworthy JCF. The JCF has a very poor track record of successful ebonizing (dare I say, NO track record at all). I really wonder why no JCFer has been able to properly document and photograph ANY successful attempts and have it be repeatable.
It feels like hunting for conclusive proof of UFOs or Bigfoot. I'm nearly convinced that successful repeatable permanent ebonizing is nonexistent. Otherwise the thread would be very popular with others following the same procedure and getting consistent results. Perhaps the thread would even be stickied or repeatedly linked as the best instructional guide on the forum. But it's not. Sorry for being a dissenter...
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I was surprised to hear the minwax didn't work as well for others as it did for me.
The directions on the can said to prep dry wood with conditioner and seal the final coat with a protective finish...I did neither.96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.
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Excellent. I've had zero problems in the year since I did them.
I actually just put the fourth coat on the guitar a couple months ago.
I'll probably put a couple more coats on the bass in the future.96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.
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