Kahler locking clamp (behind the nut style) truss rod adjustment?

[sharpjimbo]

Hey all,

I've got an 88' start body that I absolutely love, it's currently wearing 9's, but I'm going to change to a set of 10's. Adjusting the Kahler bridge (string height, intonation etc.) isn't a problem at all, in fact, I think they're much much easier to work on than the Floyd Rose... Anyway, I'm just trying to work out what tool is needed to adjust the truss rod on these earlier models? It's a special little wrench isn't it?

Second question? Am I missing something here? How the hell are you supposed to adjust the truss rod while the guitar is strung up with the locking clamp in place? It seems almost impossible that you'd be able to get any tool in here?




Apologies, the pictures aren't great, but I'm sure that if you're a Kahler lover/you've owned one before, you'll know my pain...

Thanks,

James.

[pianoguyy]

First and foremost, the general consensus is to remove, or at least loosen, the strings before you make adjustments - particularly to the truss rod.
Although, let's face it, none of us do that when it is just a seasonal twist. We only do it when it is a complete redo, like going from 9's to 10's.

I don't know the size wrench you need. But a 7mm is a good place to start until someone that knows comes along. Although, they may need to know what model guitar you have.

HOW:
There is a long end and a short end. One of them will work.

[Matt_B]

First and foremost, the general consensus is to remove, or at least loosen, the strings before you make adjustments - particularly to the truss rod.

there is absolutely no reason to loosen strings before adjusting a truss rod unless you have to in order to access it. Same with removing them.

Go search the Internet yourself.

[sharpjimbo]

Hmmm, it's an 88' strat body.

I just can't see how I'd be able to get any sort of tool in there with the nut/string clamp in place and I just wondered whether any other guys on here with Kahler equipped soloist/strat bodies face the same issue?

[Matt_B]

It's simple - if you cannot fit a wrench in there then you don't have the right tool. Hex wrenches are cheap. Buy some in different sizes or go to StewMac.com and order a specific truss rod adjustment tool.

There's no need to remove the string lock to adjust the truss rod. The strings shouldn't get in the way either unless you have the wrong tool. Adjusting neck relief for should not take much more than and 1/8-1/4 of turn.

[xenophobe]

Charvels and Jacksons with the behind the nut string lock usually shipped with a tool that looked like this:

[pianoguyy]

there is absolutely no reason to loosen strings before adjusting a truss rod unless you have to in order to access it. Same with removing them.

I never understood the logic behind it. I mean, how does someone make the proper adjustment without the strings on it --- but that has always been as I've been told/read.

[paranoid]

Charvels and Jacksons with the behind the nut string lock usually shipped with a tool that looked like this:

I have several Charvels with the behind the nut lock kahler, and Jackson and the factory wrench works just fine. I do though recommend you loosen the d string though or you will probably break it. I have never loosened all the strings to make small adjustments.

[Venomboy]

Yep, that wrench works. I bought one on eBay about 2 years ago. Found a guy with a bunch of them. They started to make the slot in the Kahler clamp so the wrench would fit. Some Kahler clamps don't have this slot.

[pianoguyy]

Is that wrench what he even needs?
I can't see well in the picture, but it looks like he needs an allen wrench. The kind that goes in the hole, not the kind that goes around the bolt.

Or am I just blind?


Oh, and yes, I have 'lock behind the nut' guitars from that era that use the allen wrench. In fact, only my imports use the 'bullet' style wrench that is pictured above.

[Sharkfin]

Yes, you'll need the crack pipe wrench; 7mm. It's a huge PITA because it does not fit since there isn't much clearance. I end up having to loosen the strings and unscrew the locknut in order to be able adjust the nut

[paranoid]

Yes, you'll need the crack pipe wrench; 7mm. It's a huge PITA because it does not fit since there isn't much clearance. I end up having to loosen the strings and unscrew the locknut in order to be able adjust the nut

The Jackson Necks must be a little different then Charvel. I have a bunch of Charvels with the Jackson behind the nut lock like the one in this picture and with the kahler locks, and I have never loosened more then the d string. I actually have a model 6 that I got lazy and did not loosen the d string a week ago while tweaking the truss rod and broke the string. the nut lock was tight and it is still being played, broken string and all.

[Newc]

I got a Warrior Pro a few years back and the head snapped in half on the way. Thanks to the Floyd nut, it was still in tune.


And this thread is just one more log on the fire against Kahler, IMO.

[TommyD]

Somehow,the handle on my wrench got bent before I owned the guitar,and couldn't get it to work right with the strings on and nut in place.

I removed the locknut and restrung it to standard and did the adjustment that way. Once I got it right,I took the old strings off,replaced the locknut and restrung with fresh strings.

Problem solved. Tommy D.