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I need some help with fret level a compund radius fretboard, I have searched the internet with no results. Do you level them the same as a normal 10", 12" radius neck or is there a special method for 12-16 radius guitar necks. The guitar I have is a Jackson DXMG Dinky and the frets are a little dinged up on a couple of them. I have the guitar ripped apart right now as I am cleaning all the gunk off it from the previous owners neglect, and figured I would do this now since I have the guitar apart. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. I am using a Aluminum flat beam for leveling and not radius wood blocks just to let you know.
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I am no guitar tech, but I have leveled the frets on many Charvel necks. I use a very narrow aluminum channel with 320 paper glued to it. I first mark the frets with a sharpie so I can tell were I am removing material, and try to follow the radius the best I can while sanding. Then I file the round top back into the fret's and polish with finer and finer sand paper, and finish with 0000 steal wool. I know this may not be the correct way but it has always worked -
I've done it twice using sticky back 320 paper on a piece of marble threshold from home depot. I sharpie first, then sand just letting the weight of the marble do the work, I just move slowly around back and forth until the sharpie is gone.Comment
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I have seen that a compound radius fretboard is like a cone, small up by the nut and gradually get larger as you go up. It has been hard to find some info on this, I have searched google the past few days and have got mixed results.Comment
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It is like a cone but it is very gradual. If you work a narrow beam from nut to end you can maintain the cone as you level. if you use a wide piece and just sand level in the middle you will flatten it out, no matter if it is compound or not.Comment
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I use 1" sandpaper rolls on an old 1" wide aluminum level that I lapped flat on a surface plate. I start in the middle of the board and just keep the beam inline with where the strings would be as I move across the board. Then go back to the middle and go to the other side of the board. Of course, don't sit in the middle too long..Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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I just don't want to mess up my frets lol. I have never done this before that's why I asked. I have been practicing on an old neck I have. I just want to know the best way to do it. Some people use radius blocks and some flat beam. Some say to follow the strings, and some a fan motion. I am very confused.Comment
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Radius blocks will shape a finger board but I have never seen any one level frets that way. If you want your action low you need the frets flat from the nut to the last fret under the strings, this is best done with a long narrow perfectly flat beam, or file, or level, or what ever, but it must be flat. starting on the outside or the middle will just be your choice if done evenly it will make no difference.Comment
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I've seen a radius block work good for non-compound radius necks, but not on a compound. I was pretty worried about messing up when I did my first one (Soloist PRO). But did the same as you and practiced on a old crap neck (I actually came on here to offer it if you wanted to practice but looks like you are covered..) and felt semi confident to try it. I got info from here just like you and came up with: I use 400 grit. Use small strokes (about an inch). Keep the beam moving in line with the strings.. (as in move the beam from center to the edge faster at the heel then the nut). I do about 15 strokes from the center to the edge, the again from center to the other edge. Re-mark with sharpie. Repeat. When you have it all level, go a few strokes sideways across the frets to even out any possible spots from between strokes (very minimal needed). Then I put an extra 2 pieces of tape on the 11th fret and hit the top frets again with a few strokes for a bit of fall away. Then crown with a file and polish with micro-mesh pads up and down the board. Then of course rock on!Originally posted by SylentCommando View PostEvery man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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I have always used 6" long 2.25" wide flat aluminum beam for leveing. I always do the whole fretboard since the beam is wide enough to do it all. I am still confused. Some people say follow the strings and go from right to left going up and down the fret board and other say center to edge and center to edge on the other side. I was also told to the fretboard has the compound radius and not the frets, so I don't know what to believe. I wish there was some Luthiers in here to help me out.Comment
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As long as you are taking material off in an even fashion as to no flatten out the radius it really is only preference. the goal is to make the frets level under the strings so you can have lower string height with out fret buzz. whom ever told you that the finger board has a radius but not the frets I would asume has never looked at one very close and ain't got a clue. But if you are this concerned about how to do it correctly(which can be done several ways and get same results) maybe you should have a pro do it and watch how they do it.Comment
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^^ All true. I even saw a video where a guy took a 6"x3" diamond grit plate and made circles over frets on the whole board. Said it worked. You use a 6" beam, I use the 2' level as a beam to do the whole length at one time. All preference once you get the theory.. Is your practice neck not working out? What is not working?Originally posted by paranoid View PostEvery man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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The frets are dinged up in the front register from fret 1, and some are uneven as well, that's why I figured I would level it. I don't want someone else to do it, I work on my own guitars, I just have never done a compound radius fretboard before.I have practiced fret leveling on old necks when I started, so I didn't want to mess up my LTD guitar when I leveled it.Comment
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I would take it to a pro, but I don't like other people working on my stuff, no matter what it is lol. Any pros out there to give advice on the proper way to do this?Comment
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The quick answer to your question is that you level in the string path. Dan Erlewine has a ton of great info on the subject.
Leveling beams are great, and I definitely wouldn't level frets with a radius block.
Buy this book; you'll find it helpful. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Books/...p-By-Step.html
These are like watching great TV. Even if you just get the first DVD, you'll be glad you did.
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