Questions about the Jackson/Charvel Owners Manual, and The Jackson Owner's Manual

[SylentCommando]

I was just searching the internet to try and find the Owners Manual for the factory specs for doing a setup. I found 2 of them a Charvel/Jackson Owners Manual that is not dated, and a Jackson Owners Manual from 2002. I have posted pictures of both. I am not sure which one to use as a starting point. Also The Charvel/Jackson one says to measure the string action at the 17th fret and the 2002 Jackson one says the 12th fret. Could someone please shed some light on this for me. Thanks.

[xenophobe]

Set it up however you want. Those are just guidelines, not a necessary step by step.

[Number Of The Priest]

Dan Erlewine's books and DVDs explain that factory setups are to withstand climate/humidity changes as guitars leave the factory and are shipped all over the world. Upon arrival at their destination, the buyer/player can then adjust accordingly. The factory specs are guidelines to move the guitar through the production line with consistency and speed, and then he does what he feels is best for a particular instrument once it's in his hands.

Factory specs: Good starting point

Your setup: Fine-tuned to your specific preferences

[SylentCommando]

I knew that, I am selling a guitar and the new owner wants it to factory spec that's why I wanted to know. also wanted to know about the action height 17th fret or 12th? I have always set it at the 12th fret no matter if it was 22 fret or 24 fret.

[Number Of The Priest]

I've seen measurements taken at both 12th fret and 17th fret.

12th = A very standard place for measurements

17th = A stable area of the fretboard because some neck joints (particularly Strat-style guitars and bolt-ons) start at this fret

[SylentCommando]

What do you do with your Jackson Guitars 12 fret or 17 fret?

[Number Of The Priest]

I'm probably not the best person to ask at the moment since I've set up my guitars for 15 years purely by "feel" without proper tools (rulers and radius gauges), starting with truss rod (straight or a tiny bit of relief) and then adjusting saddle/bridge height until I get a balance of good action versus little to no buzz on every string. Going to be buying some tools soon.

[Mudlark]

I use coins at the 12th fret if I want a measurement, keeping in mind the 1.5mm that Jackson uses as a guideline.

A 1978-present Canadian 25 cent coin is 1.58mm
A '78-present penny is 1.45
A '79-present 10 cent coin is 1.22

I have my guitars set so that a dime will fit with a tiny gap between the coin and low E string and none/little space on the high E, but a 25 cent coin won't fit under any. I can live with a bit of buzz and my necks are practically straight.

Having a nut that allows for a very minimal gap between the string and 1st fret is important to getting a very low action. I had pro cut bone nuts added to my guitars which allow only a hair's distance between the 1st fret and string. A lot of factory plastic nuts are absurdly high.

Of course, locking nuts are a different issue if they have high sitting strings.

[xenophobe]

Someone wants it set up to factory specs... just tell him it's set to factory specs. If he disagrees, ask him to tell you why it's not.

[Number Of The Priest]

And what is the potential buyer going to do, bring a ruler or feeler gauges to measure string action before committing to buying? Most people play the prospective guitar to get a general feel for it. You don't approach a woman and ask to measure her bust/waist/hips to see if they meet your numerical requirements. She's fine if she looks good and feels good to you.

Tell that seller to shove those rulers and feeler gauges up his balloon knot.

[AAEA]

guy: set this up to factory specs

you: it is set up to factory specs

guy: thanks, I can't even fucking play guitar.

[Newc]

1. Are you selling a Charvel Model series by Charvel/Jackson, or a 2002 Jackson? If you are selling a Charvel Model series by Charvel/Jackson, use those guidelines. If you are selling a 2002 Jackson, use those. Specs change for a reason over decades. Stick with the one you're actually dealing with and don't worry about the other.

2. The seller is a fucking retard. Sell elsewhere unless he's already paid. If he's already paid, tell him to stop being a fucking nancy and deal with it. OCD is not a virtue, it's a DISORDER, and he needs to seek professional medical help in dealing with his "perfectionism" because he's not impressing anyone.

[SylentCommando]

The guitar I am selling is a 1998 Jackson DK2, Also I just wanted know my self too what the factory specs were. I have a 1992 Dinky reverse,2001 DR3,2000 DR7,2006 DXMG. Is the 2002 Jackson one for guitars before 2002? I just wanted to know if these were the stock specs for all jacksons starting in the 80's until now.