Got some Speedball India Ink today. 2 ounce bottle $3.99 USD and 2 ounces will cover many dozens of necks.
My neck already had 5-6 coats of minwax ebony, so my results may've been influenced by that.
Bottom line: unlike the minwax which resulted in a very dark rosewood, this stuff is black.
I taped my binding, but if some does seep it can be removed from lacquered binding with steel wool easily.
Steel wool also removed it from frets and inlays. If you can avoid the inlays, or want to take the time to cover them with tape, I'd suggest it.
The ink will harden in a matter of minutes on the inlays which requires some force to remove with wool. Same with the frets, but since I have a thin metal guide (StewMac) to protect the board while shining/steel wooling frets, it wasn't as much a hassle as the piranha inlays were. It was difficult to get it off the tiny inlays without hitting the outlying wood.
A dab on a rag is best to apply since the 'patting on' technique all but eliminates running. Dab it on, wipe off excess.
Mine didn't sink in as well as a bare board probably because of the minwax? It got gummy rather quickly.
So, I'd suggest doing 4-5 frets, then wiping. This may help keep it from hardening on frets and inlays.
I did one coat, now it's sitting. It was dry to the touch in 5-10 minutes max. I may do another coat, but I want to make sure it's permanent first. The minwax may be problematic...we'll see.
Like a twat I forgot 'before' pics, but just picture very dark rosewood which would have a hint of brown.
The guy in the youtube video wiped it on and then off merely a few seconds later. I expect this is all the time it needs to sink in, so don't let it sit and get gummy.
Here's one coat. Poor pics, but this is clearly black, not brown.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
My neck already had 5-6 coats of minwax ebony, so my results may've been influenced by that.
Bottom line: unlike the minwax which resulted in a very dark rosewood, this stuff is black.
I taped my binding, but if some does seep it can be removed from lacquered binding with steel wool easily.
Steel wool also removed it from frets and inlays. If you can avoid the inlays, or want to take the time to cover them with tape, I'd suggest it.
The ink will harden in a matter of minutes on the inlays which requires some force to remove with wool. Same with the frets, but since I have a thin metal guide (StewMac) to protect the board while shining/steel wooling frets, it wasn't as much a hassle as the piranha inlays were. It was difficult to get it off the tiny inlays without hitting the outlying wood.
A dab on a rag is best to apply since the 'patting on' technique all but eliminates running. Dab it on, wipe off excess.
Mine didn't sink in as well as a bare board probably because of the minwax? It got gummy rather quickly.
So, I'd suggest doing 4-5 frets, then wiping. This may help keep it from hardening on frets and inlays.
I did one coat, now it's sitting. It was dry to the touch in 5-10 minutes max. I may do another coat, but I want to make sure it's permanent first. The minwax may be problematic...we'll see.
Like a twat I forgot 'before' pics, but just picture very dark rosewood which would have a hint of brown.
The guy in the youtube video wiped it on and then off merely a few seconds later. I expect this is all the time it needs to sink in, so don't let it sit and get gummy.
Here's one coat. Poor pics, but this is clearly black, not brown.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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