Picked up some Fiebling's and figured a side by side test would be in order with the Speedball ink.
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The pic sucks, but you can see the ink, left side (2 coats) and dye, right side (3 coats). The shark fin is between them. Click the pic for a larger view.
Note the dye on the binding (I used no tape). The dye sticks quickly, in seconds. The ink would rub off the binding in up to a minute or so. Steel wool will remove both from the binding/frets/inlays if it dries. It'll also remove it from the board, so either method is reversible.
The ink is blacker, but the dye shows more grain. The dye has a slight gloss even though it's the non gloss version. The ink is more ebony looking for sure. Another coat or two may help the dye. I'll do it and post a pic later.
The dye smells...badly. I think it's alcohol based. It wasn't bad on the board, but I did a tan leather guitar strap and I couldn't wear it last night it stunk so strongly. This morning it's better, but still is a pungent, bionic level leather smell. I expect time will ease it. Did a quick, fantastic job on the strap. I'll post a pic later.
As with the ink, I tried a small amount of mineral oil on the dye and it also loosened it enough to stain a napkin. This morning it still stained, but not as bad. In this test the dye stained the napkin worse than the ink. I'll give it more time and to see if they get better and report back.
They both dry quickly, seconds to a minute or two. The ink dries a bit quicker.
I'll update as info comes in.
My initial feeling is the ink is far superior in ease of use/cleanup and blackness. I'll put more coats on the dye to see how dark I can get it, as well as keep an eye on the mineral oil issue. Given some extra dry time I'm hoping they won't shed after oiled.
Considering others haven't had issues with the dye/conditioning, I'm hoping for the best.
[IMG][/IMG]
The pic sucks, but you can see the ink, left side (2 coats) and dye, right side (3 coats). The shark fin is between them. Click the pic for a larger view.
Note the dye on the binding (I used no tape). The dye sticks quickly, in seconds. The ink would rub off the binding in up to a minute or so. Steel wool will remove both from the binding/frets/inlays if it dries. It'll also remove it from the board, so either method is reversible.
The ink is blacker, but the dye shows more grain. The dye has a slight gloss even though it's the non gloss version. The ink is more ebony looking for sure. Another coat or two may help the dye. I'll do it and post a pic later.
The dye smells...badly. I think it's alcohol based. It wasn't bad on the board, but I did a tan leather guitar strap and I couldn't wear it last night it stunk so strongly. This morning it's better, but still is a pungent, bionic level leather smell. I expect time will ease it. Did a quick, fantastic job on the strap. I'll post a pic later.
As with the ink, I tried a small amount of mineral oil on the dye and it also loosened it enough to stain a napkin. This morning it still stained, but not as bad. In this test the dye stained the napkin worse than the ink. I'll give it more time and to see if they get better and report back.
They both dry quickly, seconds to a minute or two. The ink dries a bit quicker.
I'll update as info comes in.
My initial feeling is the ink is far superior in ease of use/cleanup and blackness. I'll put more coats on the dye to see how dark I can get it, as well as keep an eye on the mineral oil issue. Given some extra dry time I'm hoping they won't shed after oiled.
Considering others haven't had issues with the dye/conditioning, I'm hoping for the best.
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