Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Locking nut ID on a JS32 Q Dinky DKA TB

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Locking nut ID on a JS32 Q Dinky DKA TB

    Just a quick question.

    I'd been out of playing for a long time and had been lucky to have a Charvette 270 and DR3 that were set up and played like magic.

    Now the JS32 was bought to help me get back into playing and whilst it's a great guitar, the locking nut is far too high for my liking.

    I've tried to ID it from some tables online but I've had no luck yet. Also getting it set up over here in Norway is expensive.

    Question is can I sand the nut shelf myself or drop in another nut with a lower profile but the right radius?

    Thanks
    Tags: action, height, nut, radius, setup
  • #2
    Check if theres a shim underneath the nut. If there is just take it off and if the nut is too low put a smaller shim in there.
    The charvel SD style 2 i bought a while ago had the same problem, the first fret action was pretty high and it had a 0.2mm shin underneath it. I took it off and now its pretty close to perfect. I dont know why they put those shims in there in the first place.
    And yes you can sand it down if you go too deep you can allways put a shim in there.

    Comment

    • #3
      Originally posted by ed View Post
      Check if theres a shim underneath the nut. If there is just take it off and if the nut is too low put a smaller shim in there.
      The charvel SD style 2 i bought a while ago had the same problem, the first fret action was pretty high and it had a 0.2mm shin underneath it. I took it off and now its pretty close to perfect. I dont know why they put those shims in there in the first place.
      And yes you can sand it down if you go too deep you can allways put a shim in there.
      Disembowelled the nut this evening and noticed two things. The nut has WR3 stamped into the base and the nut shelf itself is almost wafer thin over the truss rod cavity. Short of buying a similar radius but, I'd have to sand the shelf but am hesitant as it looks like I could make the joint a bit weaker.

      No shims to be seen, which would have been a bonus.

      Thanks for the reply.

      Comment

      • #4
        Someone correct me if i am wrong but i think pretty much all the nuts are the same height and only thing that they differ in is the width like R2 and R3. Thats why there are different sizes of shims for them from like 0.1mm to attleast 0.3mm.

        Now you would be taking only small amount off of ther like 0.1mm or 0.2mm or something like that and i dont think it will weaken the joint as much that it would make a difference. Just take a little off at a time.

        Comment

        • #5
          if you concerned, nuts are cheaper than necks, have a machinest stick it in a mill and take a little off......
          A few Charvels, a bunch of Jacksons, JVM full stack, valve king half stack and an 4000 watt PA for a home stereo, my neighbors love me....

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by ed View Post
            Someone correct me if i am wrong but i think pretty much all the nuts are the same height and only thing that they differ in is the width like R2 and R3. Thats why there are different sizes of shims for them from like 0.1mm to attleast 0.3mm.

            Now you would be taking only small amount off of ther like 0.1mm or 0.2mm or something like that and i dont think it will weaken the joint as much that it would make a difference. Just take a little off at a time.
            I'll post a photo today and show you how little is left for me to sand

            Originally posted by phragle View Post
            if you concerned, nuts are cheaper than necks, have a machinest stick it in a mill and take a little off......
            It's looking that way. I know a guy who manages a plant hire place and he'll certainly have something that can do it. Just got to get the measurements correct

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by ed View Post
              Someone correct me if i am wrong but i think pretty much all the nuts are the same height and only thing that they differ in is the width like R2 and R3. Thats why there are different sizes of shims for them from like 0.1mm to attleast 0.3mm.

              Now you would be taking only small amount off of ther like 0.1mm or 0.2mm or something like that and i dont think it will weaken the joint as much that it would make a difference. Just take a little off at a time.
              R3 nut is taller than R2. Schaller has dimensions listed of all their locking nuts on their website.

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by tonybeepbeep View Post
                I'll post a photo today and show you how little is left for me to sand



                It's looking that way. I know a guy who manages a plant hire place and he'll certainly have something that can do it. Just got to get the measurements correct
                Feeler gauge set is good to have around. They are not expensive even.

                Comment

                • #9
                  just put a piece of sand paper down on a flat surface and then run the nut back and forth until youve removed enough metal. Those import nuts are made of fairly soft stuff. Just try and do it evenly. Also I believe that a genuine floyd nut and a schaller nut are taller than the stock jackson import nut. So check that someone has not replaced it with one of those. Import nuts can be found cheaply on ebay.

                  Comment

                  Previous template Next
                  Working...
                  X