Wood filler?

[Shotgun]

What do YOU guys use to fill dings that are too deep to sand out, when refinishing a body? Uh, guitar body I mean.

Keith

[straycat]

Re: Wood filler?

Bondo.Wood filler tends to shrink and crack.

[mm2002]

Re: Wood filler?

Bondo works great but better yet try some polyester finishing putty (evercoat makes the best). It goes on smoother and is much easier to sand than bondo.

[Budman68]

Re: Wood filler?

<font color="aqua"> Another great tip from Mark! Is there anything you DON'T know? [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] It's great to see you around here again my friend! [img]/images/graemlins/toast.gif[/img] </font>

[Shotgun]

Re: Wood filler?

Yeah, Mark, where were you? OK, I hope.

Will go shopping for bondo and/or evercoat polyester putty this afternoon... I'm all for easier sanding.

[img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Keith

[mm2002]

Re: Wood filler?

It's good to talk to you guys again! Yeah, I've been OK but been working 7 days a week from 10 to 12 hours a day at the shop. I'm finally getting to a point where I can slow down a little. I just hope it's all worth it in the end!

[fett]

Re: Wood filler?

"Bondo" James Bondo. Is the answer. You had just better have a dent in your car to use it all up. If it is a small chip, why not build it up with Crazy Glue? [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[sully]

Re: Wood filler?

[ QUOTE ]
Bondo works great but better yet try some polyester finishing putty (evercoat makes the best). It goes on smoother and is much easier to sand than bondo.

[/ QUOTE ]

is that also known as "spot putty?"

sully

[delt]

Re: Wood filler?

Fiberglass resin. that is, if the body won't be in a transparent finish. so far, gave me some very good results, especially for making heavy modifications.

on a related topic, what should i use for evening out dents and scratches at the back of a neck?

[mm2002]

Re: Wood filler?

Sully, "spot putty" is a generic term for many types of finishing fillers. The most common one is a laquer based (spot-n-glaze I think), and it shrinks terribly and won't really stick to anything except laquer primer. A general rule of thumb is to use only a two-part catylized filler unless you want big surprises a couple of months down the road! Another good catylized "spot-putty" I use is called "Putty Cote" by Dynatron.

[Oogadee Boogadee]

Re: Wood filler?

I am putting a eBay performer neck on a KV3 (a neck scallope project where I didn't want to scallope the original neck).

the holes are slightly off. they're the right size, but they're about 1/16" off. I have to fill them, and re-drill them. What should I use? this filler isn't just to seal, but it also has to bite into the screw as the old holes will 'interfere' with the new holes, like an eclipse, w/o chipping.

[LouSiffer]

Re: Wood filler?

[ QUOTE ]


on a related topic, what should i use for evening out dents and scratches at the back of a neck?

[/ QUOTE ]

Get a glass dent remover. It is a solid pice of round glass. You rub it back and forth really fast with a decent amount of pressure. This does 2 things: 1: It creates heat which in turn helps swell the dings/dents out. 2: Even if it doesn't take it out completely, it helps remove the "hardline" of the dent/ding so it is less noticeable.-Lou

[dg]

Re: Wood filler?

[ QUOTE ]
I am putting a eBay performer neck on a KV3 (a neck scallope project where I didn't want to scallope the original neck).

the holes are slightly off. they're the right size, but they're about 1/16" off. I have to fill them, and re-drill them. What should I use? this filler isn't just to seal, but it also has to bite into the screw as the old holes will 'interfere' with the new holes, like an eclipse, w/o chipping.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think your best bet here may be to dowel & redrill. I'm lazy, so here are some copy/paste directions I found that seem pretty good:

" Take a neck screw to the hardware store. Find a dowel that's a bit bigger than the screw. Assuming that you have a drill, buy the dowel and a drill bit the same size of the dowel, some wood glue, masking tape, and some single edged razor blades. Screw one of the neck screws into the uninstalled neck until you feel resistance. Wrap a small piece of tape around the screw where it meets the bottom of the neck. Take the screw out. The portion of the screw below the tape equals the depth that you must drill the new holes for the dowel. Hold the screw up to the drill bit and transfer the depth you just came up with to the drill bit. When you drill the new holes, all you have to do is stop when you get near the tape. Blow the dust out of the holes. After the holes are redrilled, take the dowell you bought and put it in one of the holes you drilled. Mark it with a pencil. Remove the dowel and cut at the mark. Repeat three more times. Glue them in with wood glue. It's OK if the dowel pieces are a bit short, but if they protrude, use a razor blade to trim them down. Let it dry over night. Gently clamp the neck into the neck pocket with a "C" clamp. Use something to protect the neck/body from the clamp like card board or an old leather belt or strap. Loosely install a high and low E string to line the neck up properly on both sides. Shift the neck around as necessary to get the right gap for each string. Take your neck screws and put one beside the bit you're going to use. Mark the bit you'll be using for drilling the new neck bolt holes using tape again as a depth guide. Drill the new holes in the neck. I do this with the neck still clamped to the body. Bolt the neck on."