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Pete, it's not the same as veneer bro. Compared to my method, working with veneer is a b!tch! Try filling cavities, then recapping a top on a neck-through with veneer......I can do it with polyester in about 1/4 the time it'll take you, and mine will look just as good.
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You're confusing wood veneer with veneer... what I meant was that you can't just fill a hole and go for it, you have to have something layered over it, whether it's a wood veneer, or a polyester/whatsis veneer. What I meant was veneer as a thin surface layer of a different material. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
thanks man! can you get that stuff in like, an every day auto parts store?
funny thing when i was shopping for paint; the o'reilly auto parts near me had a nason/dupont sign in the window, so i go in, and ask for assistance. no one knew wtf i was talking about, even after i took two employees outside to look at their own sign.... [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
Sully, contact Padillas in Garland. They are a body and restoration shop and I'm sure they can tell exactly where to get it in your area. (972) 487-0824
My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.
Did a coat of the glazing putty on Tuesday. I was concerned about covering the top all the way to the edges because I wanted to avoid creating too big of a "shelf" at the binding, so I masked it off about 3/8" from the edge before applying the putty. I went right to the binding in the area near the neck pickup fill. I put the putty on with a flexible plastic spreader. They sell these wherever you can buy Bondo or the Evercoat putty. This stuff is very easy to work with, but you only have about 4 minutes of working time before it starts to harden. Not sure if you can cheat by using less hardener, but I wasn't going to experiment & run the risk of it turning out gummy or soft. It was a little tricky working in the tight spots like around the trem post bushings & pickup route, but I'm sure it gets easier the more you work with it. Once it was cured, I sanded it smooth & flat with a block (checking with a straightedge for low or high spots), & feathered the edges. It sands like a dream & does an amazing job of filling the tiniest pinhole or scratch. I've got a little more cleanup work to do around the bushings. On the back, I did a coat of the putty over the fill for the pickup selector route. I extended it out past the edges pretty far, but didn't do the whole back of the guitar.
Great job dg! JUst one little hint of advise though, don't leave any bare wood showing. Since that guitar doesn't have a previous finish on it you need to take the glaze all the way to the binding. If you don't, that wood around the edge will eventually show up. Ally the glaze all the way to the edge and then just carefully sand down to the binding. The only exception to this is if the guitar already has a poly finish on it, then sanding through the glaze in a few spots won't show up. For what it's worth, hope this helps.
My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.
Thanks, Mark. I had a feeling that might be the case, so I'm glad I put the pic up & you caught it before I primed. It wasn't as bad sanding to the binding in that area below the neck pocket as I expected (it sands so much easier than Bondo), so it shouldn't be too tricky to go ahead & do it all the way around. The toughest part of this project so far has been freeing up a decent chunk of free time to work on it!
Got to it for a while today & added glazing putty to take it to the edges. Hopefully, if anyone is following this they are learning from my mistakes! I think I'll make a list at the end. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
ahhhh yes. Looks good now bro! You got the idea! [img]/images/graemlins/toast.gif[/img]
Hey man, a lack of mistakes only means that you aren't trying anything new. Keep pushing on!
My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.
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