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Just "tightening" it back on probably isn't enough. I think "put it back on and readjust your relief" would be a little more accurate. I don't want to start the old debate about whether to adjust the truss rod under string tension or not, but the way I do it is to loosen (or remove) the strings, tighten the nut in small increments just until the neck is dead straight. Use a straightedge if in doubt. Then string it up with your favorite flavor strings in your favorite size in your favorite tuning, and fine-adjust it from there to achieve your favorite action. With a set of 9's it'll probably be pretty close, using heavier strings you'll probably need to tighten a little to achieve the proper relief. If you'll hold the string against the first fret with your left hand, and at the 22nd or 24th with the right hand, the "relief" is the gap you see around the 12th fret. I set mine up around 1/32" but that's me. I suck at explaining things like this so I hope you get the idea.
My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.
The way that most techs measure relief is with a feeler gauge. Put a capo on the first fret and then fret the guitar where the neck meets the body(around the 17th fret). The distance from the top of the 7th fret to the bottom of the low E string is where you measure. I've heard had people tell me that you want a relief from anywhere between 0.000" and 0.010" The way I do it is to make a judgement based on both your desired action and the condition of the frets. If you have just had your frets leveled by a profesional, and you like a really low action, go towards the 0.000" side, if you are a normal player, or are somewhat unsure of your fret condition, err on the higher side.
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