Just installed titanium saddle block in my floyd rose (Jackson)

[uglijimus]

Hi all,
2 things:
1. I just installed these titanium saddle blocks in my floyd rose and there was a bigger tone change than I had anticipated (I don't really like it as much, but to each his own) I will be doing another video in the future talking about whether the tuning stability had changed at all or not.

2. This is not related to the titanium saddleblocks, as I have always had this issue, but when I tighten the string locking screws, they are tight, meaning if tighten anymore, it could crack the saddleblock. But the next day, I try tightening them again, and I am able to, like an additional 10-20% !! as if it loosened over night...Has anyone else had an experience like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yd3pMItkayk

[CaptNasty]

I have used the titanium string inserts (as well as the titanium nut, claw, saddles, and sustain block). I currently have 3 of the Floyd Rose Titanium bridges. I like the effect of Titanium personally.

As for the titanium string inserts, while they do impact tone; the real value IMO is durability. The will not swell, crack, or corrode like the stock string inserts.

As for tuning stability. IME, the titanium inserts do nothing for tuning stability.

[uglijimus]

As for tuning stability. IME, the titanium inserts do nothing for tuning stability.

Where did you get your titanium bridges and was the reason because of tuning instability, tone, durability or a combination of these?

[CaptNasty]

Where did you get your titanium bridges and was the reason because of tuning instability, tone, durability or a combination of these?

I got one bridge some time back. Do not recall exactly when. The other 2 bridges, I picked up a couple of months ago. I get the bridges directly from AP International (aka the owner of Floyd Rose). I put in a pre-order and they let me know when I could get a bridge.

I had OFRs already so the move to Titanium was definitely not about tuning stability. For that matter any Floyd I own that is properly set up and has properly stretched strings does not have tuning stability issues.

My move to Titanium, had several goals:

• Titanium is more articulate. It is more resistant to sympathetic vibrations. This leaves more energy in the strings for the pickups to convert to signal. I was looking to get a very transparent and articulate voice from my guitars and Titanium fit the bill to achieve that goal
• The frequency response of Titanium is also more even than other materials. This means more of ALL frequencies are left in the strings. Materials like brass or tungsten are more biased to treble, leaving more mids and lows in the strings. This is why some say that titanium is more trebly.
• I am not using the Titanium sustain block. I replaced them with Tungsten blocks. The tungsten is high mids focused (i.e. it is biased to the highs and a little on the lows) but it also has a really nice distorted voicing imo. This helps offset the highs that are preserved by the Titanium of the other bridge parts
• Stronger pinch and natural harmonics
• Durability was a major factor. No rust, corrosion, breakage, etc. The bridge will probably outlast me.

Many of my goals could be seen as “tone” related. I wasn’t thinking of it that way. I was after durability, harmonics, articulation, and energy retention in the strings. Granted these impact tone, but my motivation for the change was more specific than simply “I want to change my tone”.

[uglijimus]

thank you for all of the detail you provided. I have a brass block that I want to install eventually (wonder if I can do it on my own) Based on what you said, it seems it might even make my sound darker, we shall see. In retrospect, I should have got a Tungsten block, but we'll see...

[ed]

For the block you just take the saddles off and then the 3 screws that hold the block off and voila the block is off. Also if you got the L shaped block make sure it fits in the floyd cavity. The L shape doesnt fit in some cavities. If it just the regular should fit fine.

[uglijimus]

For the block you just take the saddles off and then the 3 screws that hold the block off and voila the block is off. Also if you got the L shaped block make sure it fits in the floyd cavity. The L shape doesnt fit in some cavities. If it just the regular should fit fine.

still scares the hell out of me. are there any youtube videos you recommend that show how to do it?

[JJ119]

Anxious to see how this turns out.

[ed]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5rBL_YFngw Floyd rose special

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psKUSHUfKB8 Edge lo-pro

These are pretty decent videos to show the basic operation. The other trem is the edge low-pro but basically the precedure is the same. If you dont want to mess with the tape marking the intonation you can take a picture with a cellphone camera of the placement of the saddles before taking them off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVFyeCgh-vg Here is another one which is i believe a 1000 series

[CaptNasty]

Regarding sustain block replacement, what Ed said. You can do it, provided you are not an “all thumbs” kind of guy. Familiarize yourself with schematics of the bridge, watch some videos then give it a shot.

Beyond that, pay attention when disassembling. Especially the order that the fine tuner tension plate and sustain block shim are installed. Even better, take a picture of those parts before yu start disassembling.

Also the saddles are NOT interchangeable. There are three different saddle heights. This is to provide radiusing at the bridge. When you remove a saddle, look at the bottom of the saddle. You should find a number or dots on the bottom. Make sure that you match the positioning of saddles when reassembling. You cand always verify by setting the saddles side by side and ensuring that they form an arc.

The Floyd design is really simple. You won’t screw it up. But even if you do it is not permanent. You can take it back apart and reassemble until you get it right

If you have a German made OFR, you already have a brass block. It is a nickel coated brass block to be exact. The repacement brass sustain blocks are not nickel coated. A lot of Korean made Floyds have zinc alloy blocks, though an OEM can change the configuration. The zinc blocks should be replaced, it will make a big difference.

Marking your saddle positions with tape is a very useful trick. It will reduce the time it takes to setup the guitar considerably. As an alternative, I use a digital caliper to measure each saddles position for exact restoration during reassembly.

Tungsten is really nice. It is also very heavy. Almost twice as dense as brass. Beside the tone, it helps with sympathetic vibrations... a significant source of string energy loss in floating tremolos. Both of my sons who play flipped over to Tungsten blocks on their Floyd’d guitars after they heard mine.

I personally find brass to be warmer (i.e. muddier). I understand that many great artists use brass blocks and even zinc blocks and get great or even iconic tones. I personally like to shape my voice as much as possible at the very first filter in the chain: the guitar itself.

[ed]

I wouldnt mind trying tungsten blocks but the price is just so high. Lowest price in europe is 200 euros. Straight from Floyd rose they would be 150$ plus 40 for shipping and then the VAT and customs on top of that. However the USD/EUR exchange rate is starting to look good so that would bring the price down some.

Actually from the APinternational site Captnasty pointed out the price would come to 159 including shipping so a bit cheaper.

[uglijimus]

thanks for the tips. I am slowly gaining confidence and starting to think I might be able to do this after watching these videos! thank you