lowered action witth a floyd rose now it's like a trem block (!!)

[uglijimus]

I have a licensed floyd Rose on a Jackson. I stripped the saddles and string lock screws accidentlly, so I bought some new ones from floydrose.com (1000 series). Everything seemed ok. the size of the 1000 saddles were the same as my licensed. I replaced the saddles and string lock screws and got it in tune, no problem. Except, now my action was pretty damn high past the 12th fret. Doesn't make sense since they seem like the same size as my licensed saddles. I loosened the strings, lowered the bridge with the mounting studs and got it to an action that feels great AND there is no string buzz.

But, now when I pull up on the whammy bar, the bridge will only recess into the cavity a little bit; something is blocking it. When I use the whammy bar, I can move a note up by a half step only. I think I have the bridge plate too low in the cavity (too many turns on the mounting studs). But I LOVE the action and the way it plays. Is there any other way to keep the action they way it is and use the whammy bar normally (going up more than half a note LOL).

I wish I could shave down the saddles, but I know that won't work

any advice?

[ed]

Check what is blocking the trem. It is either the sustain block hitting the back plate. Or its the whole trem bottoming out.

If its a bolt on neck it is easier to just shim the neck.

[pianoguyy]

any chance you installed the saddles in the wrong order?

[metalhobo]

adjust the angle of the bridge by loosening the spring in back. you will have to retune and then readjust the action to compensate

[paranoid]

adjust the angle of the bridge by loosening the spring in back. you will have to retune and then readjust the action to compensate

then the detune will be effected. I would see what is interfearing first. then make a game plan.

[Dak]

I had the same height issue when I replaced the saddle on the JT-580 that is in my 650xl with FR 1000 series saddles. Though they look the same the FR saddles must be slightly thicker than the old Schaller ones. Like you I just adjusted the trem post and that solved my action issue same as you. Fortunately I didn't have any pull up issues.

As paranoid suggested I would find what is making contact and preventing it from pulling up like it used to and go from there. As mentioned if it is a bolt on you can add a shim to add some neck angle and this will allow the bridge to be raised back up some. If not a bolt on the options aren't as easy but I would try to find a solution that allowed my bridge to be level with the body. Report back your finding and we'll go from there.

[uglijimus]

Check what is blocking the trem. It is either the sustain block hitting the back plate. Or its the whole trem bottoming out.

If its a bolt on neck it is easier to just shim the neck.

sorrry i'm late in responding...didn't have access...
It's not the sustain block. I'm not sure about what the means about the whole thing bottoming out.

ahh that would suck if i have to shim the neck. I can imagine me screwing it up LOL

[uglijimus]

any chance you installed the saddles in the wrong order?

nope, not a chance. I was shown the right way by the fine folks on this forum

[uglijimus]

adjust the angle of the bridge by loosening the spring in back. you will have to retune and then readjust the action to compensate

are you to talking about one of the 3 springs??

[uglijimus]

I had the same height issue when I replaced the saddle on the JT-580 that is in my 650xl with FR 1000 series saddles. Though they look the same the FR saddles must be slightly thicker than the old Schaller ones. Like you I just adjusted the trem post and that solved my action issue same as you. Fortunately I didn't have any pull up issues.

As paranoid suggested I would find what is making contact and preventing it from pulling up like it used to and go from there. As mentioned if it is a bolt on you can add a shim to add some neck angle and this will allow the bridge to be raised back up some. If not a bolt on the options aren't as easy but I would try to find a solution that allowed my bridge to be level with the body. Report back your finding and we'll go from there.

hmmm..I cannot figure what is keeping it from "locking" like that... I may make a video showing you guys. If not, maybe a shim is in order.
ahhh what a nightmare

[john.w.lawson]

hmmm..I cannot figure what is keeping it from "locking" like that... I may make a video showing you guys. If not, maybe a shim is in order.
ahhh what a nightmare

the frt-1000 isn't a schaller, your term arm might need some work .ie removal of some stock. idk i didn't read the whole thread. if you don't put your strings in right you will buzz. if youre blocks are not flate? you will get buzz

[uglijimus]

the frt-1000 isn't a schaller, your term arm might need some work .ie removal of some stock. idk i didn't read the whole thread. if you don't put your strings in right you will buzz. if youre blocks are not flate? you will get buzz

at first i thought it was the housing of the whammy bar, but it was stopping before the whammy bar housing was touching the wood. But now that I've compromised and raised the plate, it does stop at the whammy bar housing. If I shave part of the wood of the body, I might be able to pull up more.

[john.w.lawson]

at first i thought it was the housing of the whammy bar, but it was stopping before the whammy bar housing was touching the wood. But now that I've compromised and raised the plate, it does stop at the whammy bar housing. If I shave part of the wood of the body, I might be able to pull up more.

Sounds good. I don't know but be careful. I'm in no where land and alway's do my own work.