Replacement Floyd Rose 1000 direct replacement trem?

[Guitar Gene]

Hi, I recently acquired a barely used Charvel So-Cal HSH. I am a tech and have setup many floyd rose equipped guitars. This one will not hold the tuning so well when the trem is used. It is not terrible but you would have to retune the fine tuners. I have examined the system and set it up. I can only conclude that the posts and knife edges may have been damaged prior to my acquiring it by adjusting the trem height without slackening off the string tension.

I have not removed the trem yet but this is my conclusion as I have tried every method to correct this I have used in the past on other floyd rose types.

So, I am looking into a replacement.

I'm interested in the Shaller Lockmeister 6 and some Gotoh ones.



I have been reading that some of these replacements have wider posts and that the treads on the screw in anchor posts (that join to the knife edges ) are a different thread (finer pitch) that the FR1000.

Any views and knowledge you have would be appreciated to help me make an informed choice.


The trem is going to have to be replaced in my opinion, I always got them returning to tune before, but just not this one!

So, can you share your experiences of swapping out a FR1000 for a Shaller or Gotoh?

Thanks in advance, Gene.

[rjohnstone]

The Lockmeister is the same speck as the FR1000.
The Gotoh have a larger lower section by the trem arm and can sometimes bind in a recess route.

[Guitar Gene]

The Lockmeister is the same speck as the FR1000.
The Gotoh have a larger lower section by the trem arm and can sometimes bind in a recess route.

Hi Rick, I will go with the Lockmeister so, just in case there issues with the other one.

Thanks for that

[Guitar Gene]

The Lockmeister is the same speck as the FR1000.
The Gotoh have a larger lower section by the trem arm and can sometimes bind in a recess route.

Hi Rick, I am placing an order online for some guitar parts.

Would you happen to know the size of the stock sustain block on the Floyd Rose 1000?

There are two sizes available for the Lockmeister - a) Block dimensions (H x W): 42 x 50 mm and b) Block dimensions: (H x W) 37 x 50 mm

Not sure what to go for. I would imagine the larger one would be best for tone perhaps but then again may be to big for the Charvel So Cal Style 1 cavity.

I will try to get a look and see if it possible to measure it later, but do you happen to know or anyone with a Charvel So Cal HSH style 1?

All replies welcome

[metalhobo]

it depends on the guitar. a FR-1000 could come with either size. it depends not only on the body thickness but also how the bridge is mounted relative to the body. you need to try to match the size you have, which means measuring. if you get the wrong size it won't fit in the route

[Guitar Gene]

it depends on the guitar. a FR-1000 could come with either size. it depends not only on the body thickness but also how the bridge is mounted relative to the body. you need to try to match the size you have, which means measuring. if you get the wrong size it won't fit in the route

Hi, I found my micrometer. I placed the guitar on the bench, rear facing up and removed the cavity cover.

Measuring from the back of the block (facing the rear strap button) to the top of the block I get a reading of 32.3 mm and on the side next neck 33.4mm.

But I just noticed the stamping of 32 and it is a Floyd Rose part, so it is 32mm.

The depth of the cavity is 41.75mm - measured from the underside of the plate on the trem the block secures to, to where the recessed cover sits in.

The 37mm Lockmeister should be ok as 41.75 minus 37 gives 4.75 to spare, so should be fine I guess.

rjohnstone above reckons the Lockmeister is the same spec as the FR1000 so otherwise it should be ok I reckon.

There is a 32mm, 37mm and 42mm version of the Lockmeister.

So, although I reckon the 37 will fit, I might be better go for the 32mm to be safe.

[Number Of The Priest]

32mm is the correct size for 95% of Floyd-equipped guitars these days, where Floyds are recessed flush with the body surface. 37mm and 42mm length blocks are for guitars that have their Floyds perched higher above the body by design, which is not as common a configuration but they do exist.

Even if you order a replacement Floyd with an incorrect length block, the blocks are interchangeable so you can just retrofit your old/short block onto your new trem.

Get the 32mm block Floyd and spare yourself any extra work or worries.

[Guitar Gene]

Hi, I am only getting round to working on the So-Cal style 1.

I rewired it and am about to fit the Lockmeister 6.

I am wondering something. The guitar has a 12"-16" Compound neck radius.

Do I need to remove or add some saddle shims or something?

The FR 1000 looks to have a 12" radius going by the radius gauge.

I will try it as it is. I reckon a lot of guitars today, especially these types have compound radius and Schaller have taken this into account perhaps.

Any ideas before I proceed?

[Guitar Gene]

I took out the saddle bridge shim as this was on Lockmeister spec: Bridge radius of the saddles: 12", if you remove the shim (dimension 43 x 12,8 x 0,3 mm) under the saddles away you get 16".

The radius continues to flatten out on route to the bridge it seems.

I will try it and see.

[Guitar Gene]

Well I put all back together and it works lovely with the shim removed from the Lockmeister.

I took out the super switch and put in a standard fender 5 way and wired the coil splits to a push push TONE - A Log. Audio Taper pot with a 033uf (400v) - "middle ground" cap, used with single coils or humbuckers.

Works great........the switch was from a '95 Standard strat that was never played.......bit stiff but should loosen up.

I put a micro switch in to add the neck to any position with my pinky, so I can get Tele type sounds and all 3.

The .033uf cap seems to work well in these HSH combos.

[Guitar Gene]

I found after doing all the work that I couldn't get the action as low as I wanted due to fret buzzing. I began to wonder was it because I took out the lockmeister 6 shim to get 16" radius, perhaps I should not have as it is 12-16 compound radius.

I decided to check the frets and discovered about 14 high spots, so had to give it a full fret job. The guitar is new.........Mmmmm.............

I am about to rebuild the trem and am wondering what the story is with the shim on a 12-16" compound radius neck , do I use the shim or not. I will start a new post to try and get a fast answer to this to see what most have discovered.............................

[ed]

If you think about it the radius at the trem will be more than 16 like probably 17 or 18 but i dont know if it will make that big of a difference.

[Guitar Gene]

If you think about it the radius at the trem will be more than 16 like probably 17 or 18 but i dont know if it will make that big of a difference.

Hi Ed, thanks for your reply.

I have radius gauges I can use to see for sure. Schaller claim the radius is either 12 or 16.

I prob have it sorted but rebuilding these Floyd Roses and setting them up is very time consuming. It involves a lot of slackening off strings and re-tuning to adjust the intonation and overall height, if you don't do it that way you will ruin the whole thing in no time if you make these adjustments under tension as it will strip threads and burr knife edges and post grooves and then it will never stay in tune right!

[ed]

Yes it can be tedious compared to single locking trems where you can adjust the saddles fast with the set screws. But when you get the floyd set up once its easy sailings after that if you dont change string tensions. Also there are saddle shims for floyd saddles that ýou can use to get the radius just right. Or you can make the shims yourself too. But in your case 16 would be closer to correct radius.

[Guitar Gene]

Yes it can be tedious compared to single locking trems where you can adjust the saddles fast with the set screws. But when you get the floyd set up once its easy sailings after that if you dont change string tensions. Also there are saddle shims for floyd saddles that ýou can use to get the radius just right. Or you can make the shims yourself too. But in your case 16 would be closer to correct radius.

I had an Ibanez with an Edge II low profile trem on it. Once I set it up it was super stable, these Lockmeisters look very well made and I expect the same result hopefully.

I think I will rebuild the trem as I did before without the shim and see if my fret leveling job has done the trick.

I got a nice green/white/black shell replacement pickguard for it too but not all the screw holes line up correctly, a shame as it looked deadly........... I will have to return it to the seller. So, I put the old white one back on.