Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

[Number Of The Priest]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Here's how the strength rods are installed in necks, parallel to the truss rod:



Info:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_ro...7.html#details

I find it funny how KMaynard mentioned that the neck itself contributes to a LOT of the guitar tone, and people are generally accepting of multi-ply necks like the 7-piece koa/maple neck pictured above, yet people don't like plywood bodies as it's a sign of "cheapness". [img]/images/graemlins/scratchhead.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[sully]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

well, plywood is usually layers of a mixture of wood particles and glue, that's different than plys of maple and mahogany, for example.

sully

[Number Of The Priest]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Sully, I think you're thinking of particle board (pressboard). Little chips of wood and glue pressed together to form something decently solid, typically covered with a thin laminate of birch/maple/whatever to make it look real. It's in a LOT of my student furniture - my bookshelves, computer desk/hutch, stereo cabinet, etc. I can't imagine it being great for strength or tone for musical instrument construction. I mean, I'm looking at one of my bookshelves right now, and the weight of the textbooks on one of the shelves is making it dip down in the middle. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

Plywood, to my understanding, is a bunch of thinner layers of solid wood glued together to make a "sandwich" body. A Les Paul with a maple cap on a mahogany body is probably an extreme stretch of a "plywood" guitar, but it's got two plys (plies?), like my 2-ply Cottonelle toilet paper. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] Plywood is friggin' TOUGH! My huge guitar "entertainment/storage unit" in my basement is made from plywood... it's heavy and doesn't bend! [img]/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] Here it is:



Anyway, these definitions of particle board and plywood were given to me by a hardcore woodworking neighbor of mine who's made quite a bit of custom plywood AND pressboard furniture for my family and myself, including that custom entertainment unit pictured above. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[sully]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

that unit kicks ass, i remember when you posted that.

i do believe though, that the plywood bodies on the lower end stuff is kind of a pressboard thing. can't say for certain, and i'm sure that there's someone here with a better understanding.

sully

[Number Of The Priest]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Oh damn, pressboard in a guitar? [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] Don't tell me some of the Kramers were made of pressboard... I would have thought it was at LEAST plywood. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

I tried to dig deep to find the topic where I originally posted a bunch of pictures of that guitar unit, but I couldn't find it! Must've been lost on the old board or something. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] Anyway, Newc couldn't believe the thing was made entirely of plywood; He's never seen figured plywood before! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[~K~]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Well I never said the body didn't play a role in tone.. I simply said Moser feels the neck plays a larger role. I do know that I never liked Model series charvels because of the neck wood. The american charvels maple seemed much denser and resonated better. I'm sure everyone will come out of the woodwork with a statemet like that but it is jmo. The model series guitars were well made quality guitars but I never like the neck wood ..

[sambencuda]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Here's Brooks new PC arch top. Look at that three piece flame maple neck. I think that looks sweet! Of course if it were oiled instead of finished it might not show off the flame as much, but it I still think it would look sweet.

[tonemonster]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

I could live with that 3 piece neck idea, no problem. Thanks to everyone who posted!! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[delt]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

I don't think the neck wood matters as much as the body wood for tone. and you WON'T convince me that the fretboard wood changes the sound of a guitar in any perceivable way!! What about the inlays, or bindings? [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

"man, i just love the sound of plastic side-dots!!" [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[~K~]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

That's funny I've heard many a guitarist talk about tone difference from Maple to Ebony to Rosewood.

[cobhc]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

yeh, warmoth describes them as having different tones

[Deneb]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Ziricote (Cordia dodecandra)
This dark gray to black wood is similar to ebony in weight, density and tone. Some pieces have gorgeous striping and spider web grain patterns. May be oil finished or left raw. Suitable for both necks and fingerboards. Limited availability and expensive


Wenge (Millettia laurentii)
A black hard wood with chocolate brown stripes. Very hard, coarser textured wood with open grain. This wood makes awesome bass necks with strong midrange tones and warm lows. Combine it with an ebony fretboard for more brightness. Used primarily as Neck shafts but may also be used as a coarse fretboard. This wood is usually played raw. No Finish required.


Walnut (Juglans nigra)
Walnut is the only North American dark wood. It is somewhat softer than maple though stiffer than mahogany. Looks and sounds good when combined with ebony fingerboards. This wood must be hard finished.


Satine (Brosimum paraense)
We know this as bloodwood because of its dark red color. A very dense hard tropical wood with a waxy smooth feel. No finish is required and may be used as neck or fingerboard wood.

Purpleheart (Peltogyne pubesens)
Generally this wood is used as an accent line in laminated necks. The purple like color is striking. A very hard dense wood. Similar to Bubinga in its good bass tone. A specialty wood that can be used for necks and fingerboards.


Pau Ferro (Machaerium villosum)
Relatively new as a fingerboard wood but very well suited to this purpose. Very smooth texture similar to ebony. Tonally brighter than rosewood but not as bright as ebony. Color varies from light tan to a darker coffee color. Usually quarter sawn to show nice striping.


Palisander Rosewood (Dalbergia baroni)
This is our wood of choice for making solid rosewood necks and bodies. The color varies from light violet to darker purples, sometimes with darker stripes. The best smelling wood around. Very hard and heavy with somewhat open cell structure. Feels very fast and requires no finish.


Padouk, African (Pterocarpus soyauxii)
Bright vivid red color which oxidizes to a warm brown with use. This waxy feeling wood has an open grain texture similar to rosewood and a tone similar to maple. It is very stable in use and requires no finish. Feels great to play on.


Mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla)
Commonly called Honduran Mahogany. This is the wood most associated with Gibson guitars. Not as dense or strong as maple. Good for warmer, fatter guitar tone. An open grain wood requiring more work in finishing to fill the open pores. Must be hard finished.


Macassar Ebony (Dispyrus macassar)
Stripped ebony, black with heavy striping, chocolate brown to gray. A beautiful wood for those wanting the feel and tone of ebony but a more exciting look. Primarily for fingerboard wood but sometimes available for solid necks. No finish required.


Limba (Korina)(Terminalia superba)
Korina is the name guitarists recognize for this wood. Its light yellow-green color is unique and looks aged even though new. In both tone and texture Limba is very similar to mahogany. Limba is only suitable for neck stock, not fretboards. It must be finished. Availability is limited or sporadic.

Koa (Acacia koa)
Koa comes from the Hawaiian Islands. It is the premiere ukulele wood. It is fairly similar to mahogany in strength and weight though generally better looking. Sometimes available with flame figuring. Koa sounds best when combined with a Pau Ferro or ebony fingerboard. Koa must be hard finished.


Indian Rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia)
This is the most popular fingerboard wood. It has a warm "rock'n roll" tonality. Colors range from dark purple to lighter purple with yellows and orange.


Hard Maple (Acer saccharum)
This is the traditional Fender neck wood. Dense, hard and strong, offering great sustain and stability. The tone is bright. Maple must be finished to protect from warping We use flat sawn maple though quarter sawn may be available at an additional cost.


Goncalo Alves (Astronium fraxini folium)
Very dense smooth texture with a waxy fast feel - no finish required. Color is tan with darker chocolate stripes (used by Smith & Wesson for pistol grips). Articulate clean warm tone. Primarily used as a Neck wood and mates well with Pau Ferro or ebony fingerboards.

Flame Maple (Acer saccharum):
While there are several maple species that show the flame figure, the only one hard enough for making necks is Acer Saccarum. Identical to plain maple above, except for the highly prized flame figuring.

Ebony (Dispyrus melanoxylon)
This is black ebony. Very hard, smooth and fast feeling that has a bright, long sustaining tone. Chocolate brown or dark gray streaks are not uncommon.


Canary (Centrolobium ochroxylon)
More properly called Arariba. What we've had of this wood is primarily a yellow color with deep red streaking. Not as dense as maple, smooth and fast feeling with a warm tone. May be used for necks and fingerboards. No finish required.


Bubinga (Guibourtia demeusei)
A very strong stiff wood used primarily for bass necks and in laminations. Used by Rickenbacker for fretboards. As a bass neck, it brings bright midrange and a thick well defined bottom.


Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra)
A very hard and dense wood. Great clarity and articulation in tone. Very smooth feeling. Color varies a great deal from piece to piece, all being gorgeous.


Bocote (Cordia elaeagnoiders)
Sometimes called Mexican Rosewood. Striking green to yellow color usually with distinct grain lines sometimes with variegated interesting patterns. Smells like dill pickle's when cut or sanded. The feel is very waxy, similar to most rosewoods in feel and tone. This fast feeling wood needs no finish. Limited availability and expensive.

Birdseye Maple (Acer saccharum)
Birdseye is another type of figure found in hard maple. It shows best in flat sawn wood. There is a wide variety of size and shapes in the "eyes" to keep them interesting. AAA grade denotes very heavy figuring.

They don't seem to mention anything being shittier or better for use. I'm sure if something was unsuitable for neck wood that they would note it so (they being warmoth.com).


It's wierd to characterize, because all of my guitars are made different, but have similar tone. I think neck AND body wood have a VERY large role in tone. However, there are SEVERAL other variables out there other than just those two options. I've got several guitars, and they sound pretty similar in my rig.

[tonemonster]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

interesting......

THANKS!!!

[sully]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

[ QUOTE ]
I don't think the neck wood matters as much as the body wood for tone. and you WON'T convince me that the fretboard wood changes the sound of a guitar in any perceivable way!!


[/ QUOTE ]

that's unfortunate because there is a difference. i wish i could find neal's post about necks because it makes a hell of a lot of sense.

sully

[Deneb]

Re: Neck Strength questions for figured woods??

Sully, I know what one you're talking about, I'll see if I can find it tonight.