Lynch nut.......

[noodlesatf]

Re: Lynch nut.......

[ QUOTE ]
I watched the video last night where he talks about this guitar. He says that changing strings and getting it set-up and tuned is a pain ("that's why he pays someone to do it" [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]). Once it is set-up it says in tune.

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I can agree with that statement. I have seven guitars with Kahler locknuts, and they're all a pita to setup, while working great once they're setup. Every string change means I have to pull the three plain strings straight through the saddles, holding them in place while I clamp the locknut down. Otherwise, the angle the strings go through the lock on a C/J pointy headstock keep them from being clamped properly, leading to slipping. The high E is the worst--I have to tune it down to about C and pull it behind the lock, towards the tuners, to E, while holding the B string pulled up from A, and clamp it quick. [img]/images/graemlins/poke.gif[/img]

[MikeE]

Re: Lynch nut.......

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I watched the video last night where he talks about this guitar. He says that changing strings and getting it set-up and tuned is a pain ("that's why he pays someone to do it" [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]). Once it is set-up it says in tune.

[/ QUOTE ]

I can agree with that statement. I have seven guitars with Kahler locknuts, and they're all a pita to setup, while working great once they're setup. Every string change means I have to pull the three plain strings straight through the saddles, holding them in place while I clamp the locknut down. Otherwise, the angle the strings go through the lock on a C/J pointy headstock keep them from being clamped properly, leading to slipping. The high E is the worst--I have to tune it down to about C and pull it behind the lock, towards the tuners, to E, while holding the B string pulled up from A, and clamp it quick. [img]/images/graemlins/poke.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, that would be the definition of PIA [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img].

It's funny, in the video he says he likes this nut set up b/c it adds warmth. Then he tells how he has a quater sawn 1 3/4" maple neck and a solid maple body. Not exactly the "warmest" guitar woods.

[toejam]

Re: Lynch nut.......

I don't remember ever having that problem with those nuts and setting anything up at all. Pretty much worked the same way as a regular Floyd nut. Pretty simple to me.

[dg]

Re: Lynch nut.......

On my Model 6 (JT-6 lock), the B string can give me a little trouble. It sometimes will make a "ping" & go way sharp when I lock it down. When I took a look at the plate, I could see that the string runs at a sharp angle across where the bolt threads into the plate, & I think the ping sound is from the string catching & releasing from the threads. I've done kind of what Noodles describes to keep it just clear as I lock down. Otherwise, I can just get ready for it to be sharp by cranking the fine tuner down about half way before tuning up, then backing it off after clamping down. Not too hard to deal with, but a little annoying.

[mulder1966]

Re: Lynch nut.......

I have always hated Kahler nuts because they almost never catch the high E string. I think a Floyd nut behind the original nut would work better but I have never tried it.

[thurston]

Re: Lynch nut.......

[ QUOTE ]
On my Model 6 (JT-6 lock), the B string can give me a little trouble. It sometimes will make a "ping" & go way sharp when I lock it down. When I took a look at the plate, I could see that the string runs at a sharp angle across where the bolt threads into the plate, & I think the ping sound is from the string catching & releasing from the threads. I've done kind of what Noodles describes to keep it just clear as I lock down. Otherwise, I can just get ready for it to be sharp by cranking the fine tuner down about half way before tuning up, then backing it off after clamping down. Not too hard to deal with, but a little annoying.

[/ QUOTE ]

Mine does the same thing.