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Hey man, this is a really rookie question, but when people refer to the scale of a neck, like 25 or 24, is that the total length?
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nah, take a tape measure and measure from the edge of the nut closest the bridge to the 12th fret and double that measurement. that's your scale length.
you're probably going to have to fill those holes, as they look like they were drilled off to the side. it also might fit into the rounded pocket; worst case scenario, you have a visible gap, best case scenario, the fretboard overhang covers most of it.
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those stripes you see on the butt are cutter burn marks. it's not laminated.
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Yeah, we talked about that. At first glance, it looked like lamination stripes, but upon gazing at more pics provided, I noticed it was not lamination bands, but burn marks, from someone grinding down the area. What do ya think, Sully? What kind of issues do YOU think he's gonna face, other than what's been discussed?
i think it's a true 24 fretter, so the scale length should be fine (in one of the linked auctions, it states the scale length). if anything, there may be a pocket compatibility issue, but worst case scenario, he sells the neck on ebay and gets one of those mighty mite 24 fret pointies.
If the heel is just ground down, it should still fit. Like I said, there will just be a gap, covered by the overhang. I'm kinda worried, that given THAT, plus the sloppy fit, due to the narrower neck heel, there will be alot of play. you might have to get creative, and shim out the sides, with sandpaper and such, to tighten things up a bit. Also, here is a great Dan Erlewine trick: Take a piece of metal screen mesh, cut to the dimensions of the pocket, and use it as a full-length shim. The mesh will bite into both wood surfaces, deterring any pocket slippage. You can also run some glue down into the neck screw holes, to help them bite. Unfortunately, judging by the pics, the original holes look quite oout of kilter, so you MAY have to plug them with dowels, and re-drill new screw holes.
oh yeah, that baby's gonna need to be redrilled. and i highly recommend the super glue down the neck holes trick; it really helps the screws bite in, and it can also spruce up older holes.
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nah, take a tape measure and measure from the edge of the nut closest the bridge to the 12th fret and double that measurement. that's your scale length.
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That will only give him the proper scale of the neck he has. He needs to figure the scale of the body he wants to use as well to see if he will need to do anything to compensate in the neck pocket.
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oh yeah, that baby's gonna need to be redrilled. and i highly recommend the super glue down the neck holes trick; it really helps the screws bite in, and it can also spruce up older holes.
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Forget the old holes. They'll never match up.
Super glue may work for stripped holes, but you're going to have to drill out the existing holes, plug them with wooden dowels, align your neck, and re-drill brand new holes.
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oh yeah, that baby's gonna need to be redrilled. and i highly recommend the super glue down the neck holes trick; it really helps the screws bite in, and it can also spruce up older holes.
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Forget the old holes. They'll never match up.
Super glue may work for stripped holes, but you're going to have to drill out the existing holes, plug them with wooden dowels, align your neck, and re-drill brand new holes.
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i was speaking generally. i agree that he's going to have to redrill this neck.
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nah, take a tape measure and measure from the edge of the nut closest the bridge to the 12th fret and double that measurement. that's your scale length.
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That will only give him the proper scale of the neck he has. He needs to figure the scale of the body he wants to use as well to see if he will need to do anything to compensate in the neck pocket.
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Dry fit and measure... some things are easier than they seem [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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