Went shopping for refin stuff today. How'd I do?

[metallicarocks]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
Aw, man, I would stay away from that Crystal Clear stuff. I've had first-hand experience with it, and it didn't work out so well. I bought it to clear a headstock that I had re-shaped, cause I figured it would go on 3 times as thick. Little did I know it was gonna turn out about 3 times as SOFT! I ended up having to sand it all out, and restarting. I don't know what others' experiences have been with it, but that's been mine. It DID give me a decent finish on my keychain holder, though.

[/ QUOTE ]

What would you suggest besides crystal clear then?

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

I'm sure he meant to say Krylon "Triple Thick".
The same stuff I cautioned you on. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

I've had no problems with "Crystal Clear".

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Sorry, I was in a rush, and mispoke. Yeah, I meant the triple thick, and not the crystal clear. The triple thick SUCKS. In fact, it was the crystal clear that I used, to recover from the triple thick. The crystal clear, I wholeheartedly agree, is great stuff, and will be using it, again, on this current project.
Hey, Model, NICE collection! I beileve I am somewhat familiar with your work, as I KNOW I've seen the star guitar pic, before. Maybe on the Project Guitar forums. I remember it being the inspiration for my recent project, and using paintbombs. I'd LOVE to see more pics, and pick your brain, on this topic.

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
I've heard that using "mineral spirits" while wetsanding also helps prevent the wood from swelling, but I've never tried it.

[/ QUOTE ]

mineral spirits is okay, but the problem is that it will also act as a thinner on certain paints. there's been times when i've used rustoleum's sandable primer, and when i went to do a quick wipe down and tack off before the next coat, it started removing the primer! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] ooooops!

i've also read about people using baby oil on the final clear wetsanding (but NEVER for between coats) and having good results as well. never tried it, but i can imagine it'd make a very nice lubricant for the sandpaper.

sully

[metallicarocks]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Okay, went back and got some Krylon paints. Couldn't the clearcoat stuff though, I'll have to go to a different store.

Does Krylon make a sanding sealer?

Also I could use recommendations on a sanding compound.

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
mineral spirits is okay, but the problem is that it will also act as a thinner on certain paints. there's been times when i've used rustoleum's sandable primer, and when i went to do a quick wipe down and tack off before the next coat, it started removing the primer! ooooops!


[/ QUOTE ]

That's exactly why I haven't tried it!
That's all I need is to wait two months for a paintjob to cure only to ruin it in a matter of minutes by using mineral spirits. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

RacerX2k, thanks for the compliment.
I really hope you didn't see my work on the projectguitar forum. Those guys over there tore me a new one, and good!
I was a new member and had recommended a certain book on painting guitars with spraypaint. Apparently they thought I was there to "pimp" the book and even accused me of being the author at one point! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

All along I'm thinking to myself ... What ever happened to "welcome to the forum"? [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Anyway, I don't even bother with that forum anymore.
The site itself has some great info, but the forum isn't a very friendly place to visit IMO.

Feel free to shoot me an email anytime. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
[email protected]

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Hold out for the "Crystal Clear" stuff and don't risk mixing different paints.

To seal the body, I use Minwax sanding sealer.
If you're refinishing a body, you may be able to get away with just sanding down to the existing sealer.

Good luck. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
Okay, went back and got some Krylon paints. Couldn't the clearcoat stuff though, I'll have to go to a different store.

Does Krylon make a sanding sealer?

Also I could use recommendations on a sanding compound.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think it was Reranch that mentioned BIN primer sealer, by Zinsser, which is shellac-based. got my can of it, down the road, at the loacl hardware store. At least that's what I was planning on using. I'd certainly be open to suggestions, though.

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
mineral spirits is okay, but the problem is that it will also act as a thinner on certain paints. there's been times when i've used rustoleum's sandable primer, and when i went to do a quick wipe down and tack off before the next coat, it started removing the primer! ooooops!


[/ QUOTE ]

That's exactly why I haven't tried it!
That's all I need is to wait two months for a paintjob to cure only to ruin it in a matter of minutes by using mineral spirits. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

RacerX2k, thanks for the compliment.
I really hope you didn't see my work on the projectguitar forum. Those guys over there tore me a new one, and good!
I was a new member and had recommended a certain book on painting guitars with spraypaint. Apparently they thought I was there to "pimp" the book and even accused me of being the author at one point! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

All along I'm thinking to myself ... What ever happened to "welcome to the forum"? [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Anyway, I don't even bother with that forum anymore.
The site itself has some great info, but the forum isn't a very friendly place to visit IMO.

Feel free to shoot me an email anytime. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
[email protected]

[/ QUOTE ]

No offense, but when I saw the pic, above, and the paintjobs they had, I IMMEDIATELY thought of that book. I know the one you are talking about, cause I just stumbled on his site, the other day. Funny though: I might've seen some of your posts (diggin around, you know), and I didn't get the impression of "pimpin'". I HAVE notice a few attitudes, over there, but nothing I haven't seen everywhere. Shame. you shouldn't let them get to ya. I know. I used to go to Metal Sludge, until the dick factor got to be too great. Thanks for the address. I promise I'll try not to bend your ear too much! [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

By the way, how's the crystal clear do, as far as fading and yellowing, since my will more than likely be a snow-white base/clear finish?

[Bengal65]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

I've got "The Book" your talking about. I've been painting guitars for years. But like Sully, I use the catalyzed Poly Urethanes (Automotive), except a Nitro lacquer finish on vintage guitars that came with nitro originally once in awhile. The book has some great information, tips and I highly recommend it, especially for those using "rattle can" paints. A very good book including the photographs. I'm sure much work was done to put that "book" and the others that are available.

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

The crystal clear holds up really nice in that way.
No cracking or yellowing.
Nitro is notorious for that (no offense to you nitro fans).

I think it's only fair I should warn you though ...
There are alot of disadvantages to using Krylon. It takes a Loooooong time to cure and stays "soft" for a VERY long time. It's extremely suseptable to damage. The rubber from guitar stands will eat away the paint, leaning the guitar against objects will leave impressions, even putting the guitar in a case will leave impressions of the "fur" material that's inside the case. Extra care must be taken when reassembling the guitar as not to damage the finish. Tightening down on screws for a pickgaurd for example will cause the pickgaurd to dig into the paintjob. Over time, it will look like the pickgaurd is sinking into the clearcoat. As I stated before, it could take up to a year to fully cure. For that reason, I've learned to never tighten down on the screws when reassembling a Krylon painted guitar, and use wall hangers (not a case) for at least a year.
A real P.I.T.A. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

The advantages? ...
Easy clean up and inexpensive.
That's about it.

Working with Krylon taught me alot of basic techniques, but the long term results were very disappointing.
I declined doing alot of work for others because I didn't want my reputation to be gauged by the instability of Krylon. Besides, who's gonna wait a year for a paintjob?

I've since gone to a compressor/spraygun rig and I couldn't be happier. I shoot DuPont acrylic urethanes (automotive) which take a total of about an hour and 1/2 to cure. And once it's cured, it's very durable.

Here's a link which shows the last project I completed with acrylic urethane. This guitar was a total basketcase when I recieved it. It had two previous paintjobs, one on top of the other, so I had to strip it down to bare wood and start fresh. The guitar was shipped to me in pieces if that gives you a clue. The total restoration took only 4 weeks from start to finish, and I only worked on it in the evenings when I had spare time.


http://www.jcfonline.com/ubbthreads/...;page=2#668662

Thanks for looking. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[mm2002]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
The crystal clear holds up really nice in that way.
No cracking or yellowing.
Nitro is notorious for that (no offense to you nitro fans).

I think it's only fair I should warn you though ...
There are alot of disadvantages to using Krylon. It takes a Loooooong time to cure and stays "soft" for a VERY long time. It's extremely suseptable to damage. The rubber from guitar stands will eat away the paint, leaning the guitar against objects will leave impressions, even putting the guitar in a case will leave impressions of the "fur" material that's inside the case. Extra care must be taken when reassembling the guitar as not to damage the finish. Tightening down on screws for a pickgaurd for example will cause the pickgaurd to dig into the paintjob. Over time, it will look like the pickgaurd is sinking into the clearcoat. As I stated before, it could take up to a year to fully cure. For that reason, I've learned to never tighten down on the screws when reassembling a Krylon painted guitar, and use wall hangers (not a case) for at least a year.
A real P.I.T.A. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

The advantages? ...
Easy clean up and inexpensive.
That's about it.

Working with Krylon taught me alot of basic techniques, but the long term results were very disappointing.
I declined doing alot of work for others because I didn't want my reputation to be gauged by the instability of Krylon. Besides, who's gonna wait a year for a paintjob?

I've since gone to a compressor/spraygun rig and I couldn't be happier. I shoot DuPont acrylic urethanes which take a total of about an hour and 1/2 to cure. And once it's cured, it's very durable.

Here's a link which shows the last project I completed with acrylic urethane. This guitar was a total basketcase when I recieved it. It had two previous paintjobs, one on top of the other, so I had to strip it down to bare wood and start fresh. The guitar was shipped to me in pieces if that gives you a clue. The total restoration took only 4 weeks from start to finish, and I only worked on it in the evenings when I had spare time.


http://www.jcfonline.com/ubbthreads/...&page=2#668662

Thanks for looking. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

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#1. You're a fucking dumbass for giving that advice ("DuPont acrylic urethanes"), without any warning of what's needed to do it properly and safely.
OK, here I am preaching again...but.....it's very dangerous to recommend two part poly paints to the novice. The way you put it, all you need is a compressor, a spray gun, and some poly, and start spraying away. I don't know how many times I have to post this but "SPRAYING TWO PART POLY IS VERY VERY FUCKING DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!!" It's fucking dangerous as hell ok???????? It will fuck up your lungs, nervous system, brain, etc., unless you have the proper equipment to do it. I'm not talking about one of those cheap "respirators" you buy at Lowes either. Do a google search for ISOCYANATES.
I don't want to see anyone die just trying to paint a guitar, and I don't want to see anyone here disagree with me on this because I'll ream you a brand new asshole OK? [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img].

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

I don't believe I was creating a tutorial on "How to Paint with Acrylic Urethanes", I was simply pointing out that it was MUCH more durable than Krylon.

Now go take your Paxil. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[Newc]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Well, the guys at Project Guitar were probably upset because that book competes with some of the members there [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

I went looking over there for the same info that the guy put in the book, and found squat. I did find a few members willing to charge real money for refins using Krylon as well as others using "real" paint, but of all the free info over there, that wasn't part of it.

So I bought the book and plan to finish my first one up soon as the weather here starts behaving.

[Bengal65]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Very true on the tutorial. Nitro which has been used for years is very "Dangerous" also. It has some bad things in it and very flammable at that. I think anyone getting any type of industrial painting needs to do a little home work.