I'm going through a complete restoration of an old SG (1965 in fact) and I've bent my handy dandy StewMac stud puller while trying to pull the inserts. I've heard of using heat from a soldering iron on the insert to loosen the wood area by heat? Has anyone tried that or is there a better method? I'm not worried about the finish, since it's been stripped. (bad refin. from a previous owner)
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
Collapse
X
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
If it's been refin'd, is there any chance the bozo might have super glued or epoxied the bushings in there? I've never had a problem pulling those.
For a lot more help, go to the LP forum and search on bushings - there are many tips and methods I've seen, like using washers stacked up...
I've never heard of using heat before - this is the first time.
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
[ QUOTE ]
If it's been refin'd, is there any chance the bozo might have super glued or epoxied the bushings in there? I've never had a problem pulling those.
For a lot more help, go to the LP forum and search on bushings - there are many tips and methods I've seen, like using washers stacked up...
[/ QUOTE ]
DonP,
I don't believe they were pulled and glued in because the tops of the inserts show evidence they were left in. The tops have been sanded down. What a Bozo! That's not the only thing the Bozo(s) did. The tuners were changed so many times, and from running screws down through the headstock, the "ears' on the outer side of the tuners are splitting off! Major repair time.Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
I had similar issues with my 63 Special (well, maybe not so bad). I bought it in 1989 from GC Hollywood, and it was a refin with a neck/body issue, replacement tuners. I was young back then and the neck was the perfect shredder shape, so I bought it. I think it was $700. Forward to 2002 - I take it out of the closet to show a friend, and the neck has given way from the body.
Took it to Dan Erlewine, and damn this thing is awesome now. After fixing the neck, he gave it a nice coat all over the body - the back had severe buckle rash, and I wasn't into the "relic" stuff, so he fixed all that. Threw a bone nut in there too.
Getting back to the bushings, I think the stack washers with a screw (steering wheel puller method) might be best. Protect the body wood as you do it.
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
Make sure the washers you use have a larger inner diameter hole than the bushings, prefereably fender washers (big, fat washers), that the force is spread out over a larger area, and your surface doesn't get marred. Stack them, until they are taller than the bushings. Thread a bolt of the same size and thread as the bushing's threads through the washers, into the bushing (You MAY have to add different washer to the top of the pile, smaller, so that the bolt head does not fall through the stack of fender washers). Now, what you are gonna do, is tighten the bolt, so that it wants to screw DOWN into the bushing, but it can't because of the washer stack (That is where your pulling force comes from). If you have performed this correctly, the bushing should start inching it's way out of the hole, with each turn of the bolt. If, when you get to the end, have run out of bolt length, and the bushing STILL isn't quite out of the hole, back the bolt out, completely, and add a few extra fender washers to the stack. Hope this made sense, and helps. Let us know how you fair.I'm not Ron!
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
Hey thanks guy's. Check out my rig. The first photo shows what happened to my StewMac puller after one insert using some heat suggested by Jim Shine from a soldering iron. The second and third show the washer stack idea. Man, it was heck wrenching them out. I almost needed a "breaker bar" [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
On a finished body I wood recommend a piece of wood and/or rubber against the finish.
The Fender washers are 1/2" X 1-1/2" and I used a couple of regular 3/8" washers on top (actually they were 10mm that I had laying around). The stud is 5/16"-24, so I got a 1" long bolt for that. I started out with a smaller stack and added washers as it started moving upward.Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
The area around the studs is great. There was just a slight surface mark at the washers edges. My sanding sealer will bury that and I haven't even sanded or grain filled yet. They are out. I'm going to replace them with genuine Gibson if I can find some. I pulled out an old set of Tone Pros inserts in my parts stash that I had leftover when I retro fitted the locking tailpiece on my LPC and they were too small a diameter. I need ones that are .520" diameter. Looks good now. I'm glad they are out. They have been in there for 41 years, so I guess they would be tough. Thanks again!Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
www.pigtailmusic.com
Most people with Gibson's are replacing their Gibson parts with these. If you chose to use Gibson, there should be a lot of used parts on the bay people are trying to dump (since they replaced their parts with pigtail).
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
I was down at Fullers Vintage on Sat. afternoon (Charvel/Jackson Heaven) and picked up some Gibson ones. They are the right diameter, but shorter for some reason. I'll probably stack some small washers on the bottom. I need to make sure the bridge ground wire makes a good connection. They don't make them like they used too! Thanks for the link! I think I'm going to get that intonatable wrap around bridge for the Jr. [img]/images/graemlins/band.gif[/img]Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
Comment
-
Re: Pulling Bridge Threaded Inserts
They had been sanded down from the previous refinish. I figure if there was any plating on them it's gone now and I'll have a rust problem to deal with.Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
Comment
Comment